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Discussion Starter #1
Wire with the little barrel at the end, attached to side tab of replacement solid state VR, as it was on my original VR. Barrel bolts to firewall. Bottom of the barrel opposite the wire is stamped "964086 DR 5MF"
 

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Thanks... the thing that really puzzles me is that the 69 wiring diagram shows that side tab going to the headlights but mine sure aren't wired that way. I had this little ground thingy. I don't see any modifications made to my original harness at all but have a look- check out wire 20B off the VR.
 

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By the way Big B.. great link and resource that explains it all.
 

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Isn't that just a common ground wire?
 

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Yes. From what I see the circuit has to be a ground when you follow around all the rest of the headlight circuits in the full drawing. (Everything else goes back to the fuse panel) I guess it's just deceptive that they draw the ground wire for the headlights back to that strange symbol right there as if the headlight ground wire connects in with the condenser.

Was asking because I have a situation where my headlights aren't working and I'm blowing the fuse for the tail lights. Fuse seems ok for first click that activates the parking lights/side lights/dash then second click no headlights and then the fuse starts cooking. After checking through my tail lights it seems like nothing is wrong back there. I've also checked around the VR and Bus Bar. I think it might be the headlight dimmer switch that's messed up.
 

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As stated, noise suppression capacitor for AM radios. Cuts down on spikes created when VR contact set open/close, any point contact set, ie, ign coil, blower, etc.
Goes along with the rest of the noise suppression RPO U63.

Two separate circuits - headlamps and tail lights, or should be.
Tail lights, brown wire through the body. Check each bulb with an ohmmeter across it ensuring there is not a shorted bulb internally.
You can use the multimeter as an ammeter in place of the fuse - just plugin the ammeter in place of fuse momentarily.
Do each corner individually, unplug all the other bulbs in the three corners not being measured.
LF, RF, RR, LR and record current readings. Only difference between front & rear is rear has one extra bulb per side and license plate light - unplug license plate.
You are trying to compare the same amount/type of bulbs in each corner - all should be within 0.5 amp. There may be a filament of the 1157, the higher glow may be from a miswire.

Headlamps have a circuit breaker in the light switch and power goes through the dimmer switch on the floor.

All grounds are the same, should be, as VR is grounded to rad support, use a star washer, and headlamps ground at the same spot/rad support.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Everett... Very logical test plan to eliminate what seems like a few too many variables at this stage.
 

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Hey Everett- Update- A convergence of not one but three separate electrical problems at once, lucky me. :hurray:

So we had:
1) Incorrect bulb in taillight harness (2x bright in a single plug)
2) Feisty high beam switch on the floor making the headlights not work. Stomped on it a bit and now it sees life my way
3) Replacement VR for the brand new VR that was sitting there before, and for good measure I ordered a new VR harness as mine looked very road corroded.

Jury is still out on #3 until I start it and see 14.5 at the battery when running but I'll take it for now.
 

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The only time you might see 14.5 volts is after a 15 second cranking session, then the engine starts and alt turns on.
As the battery warms up, it takes less voltage for a recharge. So you might see 13.8.
Hopefully, you purchased a Wells VR715 vr as it will make the 10DN alt perform like an internal regulated alt.

Congrats on your findings of 1 & 2.
 
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