Team Camaro Tech banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have sandblasted my Camaro's undercarriage down to bare metal and removed all undercoating- a job I never want to do again!!

I am struggling with what to paint the floor pans, frame rails, etc with. My thoughts are:

*Use a product called Zero Rust or DPLF
*Then topcoat with Eastwood's Extreme Chassic Black Satin for the all but the axle assembly, Gloss for the axle assembly

Any input? I tested the Zero Rust on the interior floor pans, and it seemed to harden up pretty well after a few weeks. Is DPLF waterproof?

I really don't want to have to do this again ever, so I'm looking for durability and rust prevention now that all rust has been removed. Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
The DP's are great products or check into a product called "slick sand".. see what you think of that... Good Luck!...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,267 Posts
I just went thru what you are going thru. I used Chassis saver on my floors inside and out. Its tough as nails. I scuffed it up after it cured and am spraying Eastwoods undercoating over it. Its overkill but I want the extra protection and I like the mild textured look. There was undercoating on my car for 40 years and I figured it did a good job for that long.

I bought the Eastwoods extreeme chassis black and tested it. I wanted to use it on my frame. I tested on a piece of metal...applied a coat of chassis saver and while it was still just tacky I sprayed on the chassis black as the top coat. Its been days now and I can still scratch off the chassis black with my finger nail. The Chassis saver is hard as a rock. Chassis saver is not UV resistant or I wouldnt need a topcoat for my frame. For under your car you would be fine with just the chassis saver or por15 cause it wont fade from the uv rays. I used chassis saver everywhere I could after taking it to bare metal. Try it you wont be dissapointed. It takes less prep than the por15 but is just as durable and cheaper.

I sprayed Zero rust, eastwoods rust encapsulator and rust bullet on test pieces. All looked good but the por15, chassis saver and rust bullet seemed the toughest and hardest. I had my car ripped wide open to repair/replace metal and wanted to do the best I could to stop any reason for doing this again ! I did some homework and made my choice from what I thought was the best. I'll let you know how it turns out in 40 years :)

Check my sig for some pics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
I went with Kirker black epoxy primer and top coated with dupont Imrom with flattening agent in last coat. Smartshoppers online has great prices for Kirker primer. I would recommend using all black color primers so chips won't be noticeable. I'm still considering what to spray in wheelhouse areas, maybe a clear chip guard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,081 Posts
If you used sand on it, you need to use an epoxy such as DP on it, for the pits that are created during sandblasting are to big for a wash type primer and the possibility for a delam. problem down the road is possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
I used Chassis-Saver on my frame and suspension parts, and sprayed bedliner on the top and bottom of the floor pans and inside the trunk....like Johnny B said, it will never rust again ;)

 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top