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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1967 Camaro RS/SS that I recently purchased. It has a 383 stroker engine with AFR aluminum heads, Perf RPM intake. The person I purchased the car from had it for approximately five years and he had been using Mobil One full synthetic 20w50 weight oil. I had a few Camaro's back in the day before these cars were classic/collector cars and I used 10w30 weight oil.

Seeing as I am an old timer and out of touch with these stroker engines my question is; Is this a good weight oil to use in this engine? When he told me he used 20w50 wt. oil I thought it was to heavy a oil to use and wanted to reach out to other Camaro enthusiasts and get some opinion's. I live in Texas and this will be a daily driver. I appreciate any help you can give me on the weight oil you may be using in your stroker engine and your opinion of the current use of 20w50 wt.

Thank you!
 

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I wouldn't change the type of oil if it has been used for 5 years. just my 2 cents
I use joe gibbs hot rod 15-50 per the engine builder
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Kevin, I know it is not wise to make a change in the oil previously used but I was nervous about 20w50 wt. Again, I am an old, emphasis on the old, school, and wanted to hear from other's who may be running a stroker, as I see you have in your 68. Thanks for the reply.
 

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I think that it depends on the build, age of the motor, tolerances, etc., but my buddy has a newly rebuilt 496 that he runs 20w50. I run 10w40. If that is what has been used the last 5 years, and there are no issues, why would you want to change it?
 

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Many opinions on viscosity. Here is mine. 20W50 is too heavy!!!! I would change to a 10W40. I run Brad Penn 10W40 in my BBC roller motor.
 

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I run the same Mobil One 20/50 synthetic in my 302 and have for many years. Ran a standard Pennsoil 20/50 for a couple of years after the engine was built (late 80's) before changing to the synthetic. I would agree with Chad, if it has no problems after 5 years I think you are good. Lago Vista, huh? 2222 is great for a corner carver.
 

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I used 15w-40 for 3000 miles, and have switched to 10w-40.
In '75 I used 20w-50 in my 71 Z28 during the summer.
IMO, unless it's built loose like the 60's-1970, then use it,
otherwise IMO it's too thick. You'll notice the drag on the motor
and oil pump when you hammer the pedal compared to a lighter oil.

From '75-'77 I tried different viscosity oils, 20w-50, 15w-40, 10w-40 and straight 30 wt.
I like the 10w-40, which is even better than 15w-40 when the temp gets colder.
 

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I think the engine builder is the one who is best at determining what oil viscosity. My builder said Valvoline Vr-1 20-50. 496 with a procharger.
 

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Debatable topic. From what I understand as long as your oil pressure is maintained run as light an oil as possible. My crate motor called for 20-50 and I've been running with 10-30w since the beginning and oil pressure has never been even a little low.
Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/.. they have lots of info about oil wt.
In my profession I have learned that a lot of things go fine despite what we do rather than always because of what we do....pertaining to "Enging builder says ...."
 

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It all depends on the local seasonal ambient temps and the running temps of the engine...
The numbers indicate these parameters and the viscosity adjusts accordingly... litle over simplified but that is what it boils down to
I can run the same oil all yr round, head Sth 400 miles and one then changes oil seasonally...due to altitude and latitude differences.
Head another 500 miles sth and again one uses the same all yr round but different grade to up here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I want to thank all you guy's for your responses. I will most likely stay with the 20w50 wt. oil. I have been around cranking wrenches for a lot of years and always believed staying with the oil previously used as the engine is set in with it. I still do not understand why 10w30 wt oil was used in most all the sbc and now it has been replaced with twice the wt oil, I know, if it isn't broken why do you want to fix it as my father used to say. Just hard to wrap my head around it.
Again, thanks for all the input, I do appreciate the collaboration with great minds!
 

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I think when a motor is rebuilt, the tolerances are often different than factory...The heavier oil can help make up some of the difference in those tolerances...

I too, many years ago ran 10-40 in a chevy 350...
I ran 20-50 in my 383, and when I built my motor, I spoke to the machinist who stated I should use 20-50 int he 406 because many of the tolerances while "within spec" were on the higher end of the spec...I deduced that the thicker oil helps make everything stays as intended by the original manufacturer...
 

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What weight is recommended for a standard, non built sbc 350?
Any additives needed such as zinc?
Would it be better to go with dino or synthetic? TIA!
 
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