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Discussion Starter #1
I have been having a lot of problems with my Golens Engine Service 383 that I ordered last summer. I finally got the fuel system worked out this summer and put the exhaust on it. The exhaust quietened it down enough to here a knock. We first thought it was spark knock, but it wasn't. Thought it might be the tq convertor, it wasn't. So, I contacted them and after tearing a filter apart, found gold slivers in the pleating. It was then time to send it back to them and the warranty would cover all labor but not parts.

I called them today, and it ended up being a rod bearing. They replaced the crank and several rods, all bearings and gaskets. I am supposed to call them back tomorrow to get the total on everthing but I was thinking that they should have used the crank and just turned it. They asked me about priming the engine(50lbs with the drill) before starting it the first time and how much pressure it usually held(about 55lbs at idle when first started and about 45 at idle when warm). They are trying to pin this on me but I did everything by there sheets and I feel like with less than 100 miles that this is all their fault.

What do you guys think?

Thanks and I'll keep you guys posted



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69 RS Camaro (383,350t,12-bolt w/3.73s)
79 WS6 Trans Am (406SBC,factory 4-spd,3.23 posi)
87 GTA Pace Car Clone (350TPI,700r4,140k miles)
97 Bonneville SSE 40th Anniv. (3800 V-6, Power Everything, The little woman's car)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to add that the warranty stated that I had to pay for all parts w/40% discount and shipping to and fro and they would do the labor. There was also the warranty for one year on the parts from the manufacturer but it has ran out by like a month.

Thanks
 

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If they put the motor together than I say the fault is on them. Even if you had not primed the engine you should still not of had a rod knock. I say give them hell, they are just trying to pull the wool over your eyes.

Also make sure you get all the old parts back. Have a machine shop look at them and get thier opion. With out the old parts you have no proof as too what actually happened inside the engine.

Good luck

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70 camaro 307 (350soon) /350th
 

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40% off parts ! Is that off list price? If so you could go to your local parts house and just about get that deal. Pay shpping both ways ? Sounds like these guys only investment in rebuild is going to labor. Call Judge Judy!!!!!!!! Dave
 

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Call the better business bureau, don't know the number but they could help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update:
I called today and here is the total $561.50
Main Rod &Cam Bearings, Lifters, Crank, Rods, & Gaskets. They upgraded rods to Eagle 5140 and the crank is an Eagle. I looked in Jegs and this is about 1/2 price of what I figured up in there. I signed a warranty sheet that stated that they were only responsible for labor, all removing and replacing of the engine,shipping and parts were my responsibility. The only way the warranty was any good was for me to sign the paper. I don't think that it would do me anygood to contact the BBB after signing the warranty paper.

I still don't know how much shipping is going to be.

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69 RS Camaro (383,350t,12-bolt w/3.73s)
79 WS6 Trans Am (406SBC,factory 4-spd,3.23 posi)
87 GTA Pace Car Clone (350TPI,700r4,140k miles)
97 Bonneville SSE 40th Anniv. (3800 V-6, Power Everything, The little woman's car)
 

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is this a stadard warrnty on hi performance crate engines?

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chris
1980 Z/28
350 .60 over stock bottom end world products torker2s 280H compcam edel.performer rpm,holly 750 dual feed.
2200 stall,- but still not done.
 

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Unfortunately, I think you're hosed. Chalk it up to a lesson learned. One question I'd ask is if they balanced the new rotating assembly for you - free of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did ask yesterday and it was balanced

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69 RS Camaro (383,350t,12-bolt w/3.73s)
79 WS6 Trans Am (406SBC,factory 4-spd,3.23 posi)
87 GTA Pace Car Clone (350TPI,700r4,140k miles)
97 Bonneville SSE 40th Anniv. (3800 V-6, Power Everything, The little woman's car)
 

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I'd also tell em you want the old crank rods etc back because after all you paid for em twice. The crank might be turnable or resell it for a little extra dough to offset the shipping costs.
 

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Signing the warrantee sheet means nothing. It was done under duress _IF_ this was presented to you after you had made the purchase. (Which, by your description, is the case.)

Rick-O
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by the mechanic:
is this a stadard warrnty on hi performance crate engines?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>does anybody know if this is standard,i know a replacment motor you can get differnt options on warrnty but even the low/cheap option is a stronger warrnty than this.



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chris
1980 Z/28
350 .60 over stock bottom end world products torker2s 280H compcam edel.performer rpm,holly 750 dual feed.
2200 stall,- but still not done.
 

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Bad internals only after 100 miles? ...you got shafted most likely. It is so hard though for a company not do offer the warranty such as that as they have no idea what happens after they ship it. Not saying anything to defend a company that doesn’t at least cut you a break but they don’t know if those 100 miles where a 1/4 mile at a time at redline. It does sound like it was not anything you did by your post. Sorry this happened to you and I hope it works out. Get the old parts back..you paid for them.
 

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I've started to reply several times and quite. I don't want to sound cold toward wildkatz as he is the one paying the price for all this... Maybe we all can learn some from it. I also don't want to be-little Golen's as they put everything up front on their web site... www.GolensEngineService.com Take a look at the warranty link. It's all spelled out.

What I do want to key in on is as consumers we need to shop smart and be alert. Example: their 400hp 383 is $3000 + shipping costs and they stress that a qualified tech has to do the install for the warranty to be valid. So now if you do the work yourself and you don't work on cars for a living you can't expect them to honor the warranty. Between shipping and paying someone to do the work for you the cost may have just gone up to $4500+- could you get this done locally for about the same? You also have to think about all the "what if's" The cost of shipping the whole engine or the bad part(s) has to be factored in as well... I think the best mail order engine shops (or the ones I would consider using) bench run their engines through cam break-in before shipping them out. This takes the edge off for both sides. I personally like doing business with a shop that I can stop by and talk to the builder. If something goes wrong they're close by.

Long post by me but a lot of this is common sense, dollars tend to effect how we think and the choices we make.
 
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