Run a 180 deg stat, no reason for anything else... The temp has to climb to what ever the stat is rated for or above before the stat opens. So if you are running a 195 figure the temp will reach 200 before the liquid can flow through the block and core and your cooling system does it's job. Then it's going to cool down some and if it drops below 195 the stat will close and the cycle begins all over again. Your guage may not be calibrated but it's registering the heat rise and drop so that's a good thing. Some stats open slower and the temp will go up a bit more. With a 180 you'll see a bit less movement on the gauge. The 165 stat probably would never close once it opened. It would only be doing half it's job that way...
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Well onova, ya know, as an OLD fan of Smokey, I can't think of a thing he wrote that didn't refer to a RACE CAR.
Sure, small blocks need to run hot. But during a race on a circle-track, controlling temperature is a little easier than in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day with the hotrod. And I'll bet he had race fuel, not pump gas. Ten bucks? Hell, I'll go fifty.:yes:
Another trick of his is to pour that egg preservative (I can't think what it's called) into the back of the combustion chambers of aluminum heads. It hardens and therefore insulates the heat in the combustion chamber to make as much power as a iron head. Bet he didn't have to pull heat out of the chamber to avoid pinging on pump gas ether. Hundred bucks?
And did we talk about how heat utterly destroys the stuff in the engine compartment of our classics?
Sure, small blocks need to run hot. But during a race on a circle-track, controlling temperature is a little easier than in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day with the hotrod. And I'll bet he had race fuel, not pump gas. Ten bucks? Hell, I'll go fifty.:yes:
Another trick of his is to pour that egg preservative (I can't think what it's called) into the back of the combustion chambers of aluminum heads. It hardens and therefore insulates the heat in the combustion chamber to make as much power as a iron head. Bet he didn't have to pull heat out of the chamber to avoid pinging on pump gas ether. Hundred bucks?
And did we talk about how heat utterly destroys the stuff in the engine compartment of our classics?
hey Fred......
i was looking at the pics of your camaro.......nice......how do you like the gear vender OD?
you've had it in there for 23 years??? wow.
i have 1 too..........put it in 3 years ago........love it!
did you know Baldwin Motion had a similar OD unit as a dealer option in 1969 called a Hono drive. bit of classic trivia.
what are you using as a switch for the GV OD? a foot switch?
thanks for the T-stat info guys!
i was looking at the pics of your camaro.......nice......how do you like the gear vender OD?
you've had it in there for 23 years??? wow.
i have 1 too..........put it in 3 years ago........love it!
did you know Baldwin Motion had a similar OD unit as a dealer option in 1969 called a Hono drive. bit of classic trivia.
what are you using as a switch for the GV OD? a foot switch?
thanks for the T-stat info guys!
Back in '72 I bought a Hone-O-Drive. It was a 30% OD. At 60 MPH my RPM dropped about 1000rpm. But because it used a U joint between it and the tail shaft of the primary transmission, IT VIBRATED LIKE HELL in direct drive. When it blew up one day, I found that the company had gone out of business. Lucky me. The GearVenders is a much better product except the RPM's only drop about 600 at 60MPH.hey Fred......
i was looking at the pics of your camaro.......nice......how do you like the gear vender OD?
you've had it in there for 23 years??? wow.
i have 1 too..........put it in 3 years ago........love it!
did you know Baldwin Motion had a similar OD unit as a dealer option in 1969 called a Hono drive. bit of classic trivia.
what are you using as a switch for the GV OD? a foot switch?
thanks for the T-stat info guys!
My unit has the foot switch like the headlight dimmer switch. I mounted it on the floor just above the headlight dimmer. It's OK, but confusing, even after all these years. But I have the option of leaving the dash mounted rocker selector switch in 'Auto' mode. Then it would shift into OD at 45MPH no matter what the throttle setting, and back to direct drive at about 20MPH. I haven't used that position since it was new, when I found out how boring it is.:noway:
And thank you for the nice comment!
Why would controlling the temperature in a street car be more difficult than that of a circle track car? More mud gets in the radiator? All you have to do is keep the water and air flow going and your hot rod will stay cool all the time. Modern 500 hp cars run 200+ all the time and I don't see them pulling over with cooling problems.Well onova, ya know, as an OLD fan of Smokey, I can't think of a thing he wrote that didn't refer to a RACE CAR.
Sure, small blocks need to run hot. But during a race on a circle-track, controlling temperature is a little easier than in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day with the hotrod. And I'll bet he had race fuel, not pump gas. Ten bucks? Hell, I'll go fifty.:yes:
Another trick of his is to pour that egg preservative (I can't think what it's called) into the back of the combustion chambers of aluminum heads. It hardens and therefore insulates the heat in the combustion chamber to make as much power as a iron head. Bet he didn't have to pull heat out of the chamber to avoid pinging on pump gas ether. Hundred bucks?
And did we talk about how heat utterly destroys the stuff in the engine compartment of our classics?
You'll bet he didn't have to pull heat out of the combustion chamber to avoid pinging on pump gas? Where else would you pull heat out of to prevent pinging with any gas? Running WOT on race gas with whatever modifications he made will produce far more heat than a street driven hot rod.
My measurements on our road racing car show that under hood temperatures are generally about 70 degrees less than the engine temperature. I don't see that raising the temperature from 110 to 130 is going to considerable shorten the life of your engine compartment. The average radiated heat from the exhaust system should remain fairly constant regardless of the operating temperature. Your timing and fuel control will greatly affect this temperature.
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