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Discussion Starter #1
Hoping you guys can help me come up with a solution to my problem.

I just tried putting the original 14x6 steel wheels (FC code) and radials (BFG T/A's 205 70 R14) after adding in-line tubes front disc brake conversion (suppose to fit 14" rims) and can't get the wheels to spin once I tighten the lug nuts.

Is it a matter of "trimming" the caliper and/or bracket somewhere so it doesn't bind when spinning. If so, where do I start trimming.

I had a 14" YJ rally wheel on before the FC wheel and there were no problems.

 

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I had several wheels that wouldn't fit over my factory discs when it came time to pick out four to put on. My guess is the smallest diameter of the rim is against the front(outside) of the caliper. Try a couple of washers behind the wheel on each stud and see what happens,
.

Jeff
 

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Look at the inside of the wheel for 'witness' marks, those scratches made into the paint of the wheel when tighten. Trim as needed.

Another place to look, it appears the rotor is separate of the hub.
When tightening the lug nuts, does the action push the rotor against the inboard brake pad?
Does caliper slide back enough providing clearance?
 

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To test the rotor/caliper clearance, Everett's thought, tighten the lug nuts to the rotor (no wheel, add washers if needed,) and see if the rotor turns freely. If it doesn't it's not the wheel its the rotor/hub/caliper fitment. Cheers, Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help guys. I'll check your guys suggestions tomorrow as my garage has poor lighting and it's getting darker now...
 

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Had the same problem with mine when i converted to discs. The wheels
for drum brakes setup and on the inside of wheel where they are riveted Or spotwelded together it was hitting on the tabs as the wheels turned ended up using a set made for disc brakes .
 

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I'll almost guarantee it's the wheel hitting the caliper bracket. Mine did that and they aren't stockers (but they are 14" wheels). I took a grinder to the tabs at the top and bottom of the bracket toward the outsides of the caliper (if that makes sense. If not you can figure out where it's rubbing) and just took off a little bit for clearance. I didn't want to take off too much because I want the bracket to look intact when I eventually get the wheels on my "wish list" at tire rack.

...just saving up $1400 or so now in "beer money" to do it...

On another note if you decide to get 17x7 and 17x8.5" Sport Muscle Nitro 5 wheels and slap on some 225/45-17's up front and 255/35-18's on the back let me know because I really want to know if all my measuring, excel sheet, and calculations are correct. By my calculations that should be about perfect with no rubbing. It should also help get my speedo closer to being back on track as well...
 
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