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Discussion Starter #1
On the 67 Camaro converted the manual steering to power steering using the IROC steering gear. Now the steering wheel is 90 degrees off center. The steering gear is centered with the wheels straight ahead. The problem seems to be the rag joint is off 90 degrees and only installs one way. Using a new rag joint from Leepowersteering. Is there a different joint that I should be using that has the correct indexing to the steering column. Looks like not easy to re index the steering wheel because of the turn signals etc. What am I missing here? If I put the steering wheel in the correct position then the steering gear is way off center. Is there an easy fix?
 

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I didn't do a conversion from manual, but the the coupler I used for the IROC box was the Dorman 31011. This coupler can be rotated 180 degrees by swapping out the large bolt with the small bolt and swapping the bushing. I can't explain why you're off 90 degrees. You're right, simply centering the wheel will mess up your turn signal cancelling.

First pic shows the Dorman coupler with the bushing installed.



Second shows the coupler installed and (IIRC) steering centered (smaller bolt on engine side).

 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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The pitman arm length difference is most likely causing this issue. Not an unexpected problem.
You could have as much as 1/2" difference in lengths making a big difference at the steering wheel.
Center the wheel and adjust the tie rod sleeves accordingly. Then get a front end alignment to
insure correct toe setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't do a conversion from manual, but the the coupler I used for the IROC box was the Dorman 31011. This coupler can be rotated 180 degrees by swapping out the large bolt with the small bolt and swapping the bushing. I can't explain why you're off 90 degrees. You're right, simply centering the wheel will mess up your turn signal cancelling.

180 degrees doesn't help. The wheel is 90 degrees off , or a quarter turn. The pitman arm is same length as the manual that came off. Gear is centered and wheels are straight. Just need to find a rag joint that is indexed 90 degrees from what I have. Moving the tie rod ends will move the gear off center. Is there a joint that has the right spline that does not have the flat that can be installed any position , maybe? I remember seeing some threads on converting where they said they had an issue turning to much one direction and not enough the other and this is probably the problem they had. but did not see solutions other than turning the tie rods,
 

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Your old steering box was likely 4 turns lock to lock so center was 2 turns. New box is likely 2.5 turns lock to lock so center is 1-1/4 turns. 1/4 turn is 90 degrees which is the offset you are seeing. It will take a lot of offsetting of the tie rod ends to correct that 1/4 turn so make sure you have enough thread engagement when you are done.

Had the same problem when using stock style steering wheels with fast ratio boxes and this is the theory I came up with FWIW. It may or not be correct. Replacing the steering wheel with one that uses a wire for the horn button and can be easily clocked will make life easier....

Don
 

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When I upgraded to a fast ratio IROC steering box, I had the same issue...
after I got it back from a front end alignment, it was straight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Things were progressing, discovered had the wrong coupler, small dia, The good was when changed out the manual box put a new coupler in and the new manual box used the 3/4 shaft and coupler. , so reused coupler from manual box and all is ok now, But now other issues. have a major leak in the new pump, leaking at the adjusting bolt hole, not good. Was running engine to bleed the air out of the pump, before knew it was leaking and the engine just quit. NO power to anything. must have a big short someplace, most likely around the steering column I'm guessing. Also this is a job that really needs two people. One can do it, but 2 a lot better, especially at my age.
 

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Things were progressing, discovered had the wrong coupler, small dia, The good was when changed out the manual box put a new coupler in and the new manual box used the 3/4 shaft and coupler. , so reused coupler from manual box and all is ok now, But now other issues. have a major leak in the new pump, leaking at the adjusting bolt hole, not good. Was running engine to bleed the air out of the pump, before knew it was leaking and the engine just quit. NO power to anything. must have a big short someplace, most likely around the steering column I'm guessing. Also this is a job that really needs two people. One can do it, but 2 a lot better, especially at my age.
The adjuster takes a bolt into the pump body with stud going the opposite way, so it's screwed into the pump and an internal O ring seals the pump casting to the reservoir. If you put a nyloc nut on the stud for the adjuster, it can back out the bolt and cause a leak.
 
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