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Discussion Starter #1
I've been reading the old posts on wheel studs but am still confused on the proper lenght for the wheel studs for rear axles on 68 Camaro w/12Bolt rear. The reason that I'm intersetd is that I'm getting new axles and also converting to rear discs. The current axles have studs that are approx. 1 1/4 Inch. However, where I'm confused is that appears that a lot of people have said in posts that they are getting 3 inch wheel studs. This seems like would be way too long and would stick out too far. Has anyone done a disc conversion and re-used the 1 1/4 inch wheel studs?

Thank you!!! :D
 

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You can use studs from something like a '77 Malibou b/c they will be about a 1/4" longer due to their front rotors!!

Take one of your's to your local Chevy Dealer and ask the Counter Person to hunt up what you need! Should be like $1.25 or so each(??)....

Otherwise go to a NAPA store and look through their great big drawer of studs until you find what you need!!

pdq67
 

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I would think stud length would be determined by the flange thickness, wheel thickness, and rotor thickness added together.

If drag racing, or other racing, I suppose, the stud needs to be in the hex portion of the lug nut by at least the diameter of the stud. Open nuts help with tech inpection as inspector can see the stud penetration into the nut rather than remove a nut for the inspector at the track.

As said, otherwise, visit NAPA or older store selling Dorman studs, you'll see a stack of orange drawers, and get the length needed. Either press them into the flange or use two washers min and an old lugnut and with the flat face against the washers, pull the stud into place with the nut.
 

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The rule of thumb (from a wheel guy) is that the lug must engage the stud by at least the same thickness of the stud. Meaning, if you have 1/2 RH20 studs, your lug should engage the stud by at least 1/2". Hope that helps in your figuring.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the suggestions & advice. All the parts just arrived :D and I think what I'll do is start by installing only one of the stock length (1 1/4") studs into an axle and then simulate the actual installation by stacking the rotor and wheel onto it and see what I have as far as bolt depth goes before proceeding with installing all the studs and putting in the axles and then learning I have to knock them all out cause they are too short. :noway:
 

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If you have axles out and have access to a press, that would be better than pounding them back in with a ford tool or trying to pull them thru with a nut. This sometimes get you into trouble , something wants to strip. Might look into using some Moroso studs? Get the correct shank size.
 

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Let me know how long you need and I may have a free set of studs for you!!

The .480" ones!!

FREE for postage!!

pdq67
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow!! - thanks for that very generous offer - I checked it out and it looks like the install will work out perfect with what I have - the disc hub back plate is a "tad" thicker than the stock drum back plate, however, the Moroso studs are about the same "tad" (1/8") longer so think it's gonna be fine. For what it's worth I read in another post where someone said that "converting to rear discs will keep your wheel/axle on (for at least a little while until you can pull over I'd imagine) if the C-clip should fail. This is a secondary good reason to convert to discs if anyone is considering.
 

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Right!

I'm counting on that too!

And from what I read, most of the c-clip eliminator kits leak so about the best way to do this is to put Ford ends on the housing and then use custom axles!!

This right guys??

pdq67
 
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