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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody seen 18/20's on a 67 or 68 only seen pics of 69's Car lower 2 in rear and QA1 adjustable coilover in front so i can set ride where i want it. Thinking of running Billet Specialties SLX 45's and Toyo Proxes 4 tires with
18 x 9 and 275/35/18 on front and 20 x 10 and 295/30/20 in rear also has full global west tubular contol arms and rear leafs with a currie 9" and four wheel disc's by my measurements i can fit 5.5 bs in rear (have 5.75- 6.00 clearance to inner wheel well) and 5.5 bs in front (with front end all the way down and weight on it) before i get close to the control arms or inner/outer fender does anyone run anything like this and have pics?
 

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You will not fit 275s in front without running into clearance issues with either the UCA or subframe. That front BS will have you hitting the frame and you will lose steering radius. CarlC is using a 5.25 BS with 275 and has steering radius loss. You will not fit 295s in back without rubbing issues unless you minitub it. I wish I could have better news for you.
 

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You're a little on the big side all the way around. In the front an eight wide and a 245 tire if the car is low - in the rear a 9.5 wheel with a 275 tire. You can maybe force your combo to work by using front control arms with adjustable steering stops and not going to low and rolling the lips and beating in the inner wheel wells in the rear. Do a search this has been discussed before. Ride height plays a big part in how wide you can go. While I like the large diameter wheel look - on a stock wheel well car the tire sizes that work seem to be a little more conservative - rather than the max. Fronts 225s or 235s - rears 255s. Hope this hepls.
What Baz67 said a little quicker than me!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
with the global west tubular control arms and my measurement at full low and loaded at steering stops (limited by gear not bump stops) a 5.5 bs on front and a jig i made simulating a 25.5" tire/wheel combo and a 9" wheel with a 1" over hang on tire for a total of 10" does not touch control arm, inner wheel well or outer fender lip. On the rear with a currie 9" and disc brakes i have 5.75 bs avaiable with a 26.5" tire and 12" between inner fender well and outer quarter inner lip which a 295 on a 10" wheel will not be 12" so with careful wheel choices why won't it fit? I also do not care if i have to slightly roll fenders (dad owns body shop) or loose some turning radius not doing high speed walmart parking spot moves. Think may need to relocate rear lower shock mounts inboard a little thought know of anyone one who makes those and a little more indepth on why these wheels would not fit would be appriciated. I have had a 275/40/17 TT II on a 17 x 8 and 4.75bs on the front off the rear of another 68 and it clears easy figured i could fit a 265/35/18 under pretty easy then and fab an adjustable steering stop on lower control arm if needed.
 

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Ho's Money Pit said:
with the global west tubular control arms and my measurement at full low and loaded at steering stops (limited by gear not bump stops) a 5.5 bs on front and a jig i made simulating a 25.5" tire/wheel combo and a 9" wheel with a 1" over hang on tire for a total of 10" does not touch control arm, inner wheel well or outer fender lip. On the rear with a currie 9" and disc brakes i have 5.75 bs avaiable with a 26.5" tire and 12" between inner fender well and outer quarter inner lip which a 295 on a 10" wheel will not be 12" so with careful wheel choices why won't it fit? I also do not care if i have to slightly roll fenders (dad owns body shop) or loose some turning radius not doing high speed walmart parking spot moves. Think may need to relocate rear lower shock mounts inboard a little thought know of anyone one who makes those and a little more indepth on why these wheels would not fit would be appriciated. I have had a 275/40/17 TT II on a 17 x 8 and 4.75bs on the front off the rear of another 68 and it clears easy figured i could fit a 265/35/18 under pretty easy then and fab an adjustable steering stop on lower control arm if needed.
I'm not sure why you asked your question, because when you got two negative responses you pointed out your detailed measurements and work-arounds for the issues mentioned.

Please, go ahead and do it and get back to us on how it works out.

FWIW, I'd set the BS so the tires are closer to the outside of the wheel well than the inside. Too little clearance on the inner side of the wheel well can lead to a solid hang up if you go over something like a driveway at an angle where one side of the rear is forced up.
 

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Do it. If it works great. You will be the first and only to do it without any modifications. Have you been over to www.pro-touring.com ? There have been many people who have tried and failed to do exactly what you are trying to do.

Did you check tire to subframe clearance? I have an 8.5" with 5.375 BS using a 255 tire and I hit the frame before full lock. How about rear tire to leaf, rear axle at full bump and rear axle with one side full bump? Remember when one side goes into bump the other side cambers out. The wheelhouse also narrows leaving less room for the tire in bump.

Good luck.
 

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Seems like you had this all figured out before you asked. How did you allow for fuel and passenger weight and road irregulatrities? If your calculations are correct the rear shocks should not be an issue with 20" wheels because the shock will go inside the lip of the wheel -no? We probably sound harsh but if you make this work you will be in very elite company. 9" front wheels have always caused some rubbing issue somewhere. 10" rear wheels do as well. Do a search and you will see what we are talking about. Don't forget just because it physically fits in the wheel opening doesn't mean it works when your driving down the road. Hey go for it - good luck - let us know how you worked it out.
 
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