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I'm trying to get my car to turn off with external switch at trunk. I put 1ga from batt. negative to trunk sheetmetal. Then 1ga hot from batt. to switch then switch to starter. Then hot from msd 6al and hot from voltage regulator also to starter. The car won't shut off from switch and if it's off it will kill the battery if I leave the switch on. Thanks
 

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You'll need a ford solenoid wired in I think.
 

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Do you have an alternator? If so it will back feed, there is a relay kit, that will shut down
all power, NHRA checks mine 2 times a year or more, It will kill all power NOW.
 

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You'll need a ford solenoid wired in I think.
You don't really need the Ford part, you just need to cut the power from the battery and alternator together.
 

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The switch should be on the negative cable that way when it is off the system is dead.

Dan E.
69 SS396 4spd. 4.10 posi x66 coupe
 

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Here is the setup I used ... works perfectly. I assume it would be NHRA legal, although I haven't been to the track with the car yet. When I researched this topic a few months ago, I found quite a few posts with good info. The schematic below is the result:

 

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Well sick67, seems you've learned one of the rules of hot rodding: Nothing is simple. Follow the diagrams posted here and you'll be fine.
Here's one for you. Last year I was teching-in. The guy I got to look at my car was an old geezer like me. He looked at my battery mount and said it was illegal. (I'd cleared tech at my track with that setup for nearly two years.) He said my Summit mount used J bolts and they had to be welded. Wha???? I said! That's silly. He left and brought back a rule book. Sure enough, there it was. Then the FIGHT started. The other guy's on the tech team started yelling at him calling him an asshole! Honest. They knew my car and knew it wasn't dangerous. I ran anyway. But I had to promise to weld it.
After the race, I drove home and used JB Weld. The book didn't say how it had to be welded. (I'm a student of the Smokey Yunick method)
 

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In the color schematic I'd make the following observation. On trunk mounted battery setups the solenoid would be near the battery so the big-ol beef-steak crank wire isn't a live circuit that can burn up your car if it shorts. And the MSD setup in the same schematic should have it's power source connected to the "POWER DISTRIBUTION" point with a suitable fuse.
 
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