Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I starting my 67 project which I've been sitting on for quite a while. My father purchased this car new and handed it down to me at age 16 (what was he thinking?). I'm now 37. I'm more of a body man so I need some help with the engine. From the invesigation that I've done, I've got a stock LF7 which is a 327. It has a 4" bore and a 3.25" stroke. The compression ratio is 8.75:1. The stock cylinder heads have a 1.72" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves. It's rated at 210hp @4800rpm as it has a 2 barrell carb. I'd like to get up to, or over 400HP. What changes will get me there?

Thanks in advance, Keith
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,375 Posts
Stop. Don't touch that original engine. If you want more power, remove it as a unit and store it safely. In other words, in a clean dry location protected from grime with the moving parts protected too.
Build your toy-engine and enjoy. Your children will thank you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,717 Posts
There is no replacement for cubic inch displacement. Save/store the original engine and play with a rat motor. Worked for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,122 Posts
Stop. Don't touch that original engine. If you want more power, remove it as a unit and store it safely. In other words, in a clean dry location protected from grime with the moving parts protected too.
Build your toy-engine and enjoy. Your children will thank you.
yep thats a lot to ask out of a 327. If it were me and i wanted a street car with 400 horse small block I would go with a 383 or 400. Thats just me.
There are a lot of thoughts on this. Nope, no replacement for displacement.
Like my orignal numbers matching 383.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
OK... Fred, that does concern me as well. However, this engine has had work done on it before. So, I'm not sure how "original" it is. My thought was if the block was original... then I'm still ahead of the game. This car is a plain coupe, so I have understood that since it does not wear an SS or RS badge that minor mods will not decrease the value but may increase the value. True or False?

JimM, I like haveing the original 327 block in the car as well. Not sure why, it's just a good feeling. If I change the crank to make it a 383 (I read somewhere that that is the differnce)... does that scew my numbers. I am very unfamiliar with the numbers matching game. I'll have to investigate before any tools are lifted of course.

Thanks guys, Keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Eric, that is exactly what I'm looking for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
One more thing. I know the heads are original, how can I tell what kind or type? Is there a stamp somewhere? The info I found on the engine just told me the intake and exhaust valve sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Not knowing just how fast you want to go, the 327 you have can be made to perform very well. You may not make 400 hp but, you'll be close enough to have fun with the car. Look at the 302 in the First Gen cars. They were screamers from the word "GO." While they didn't have the torque of the big inch motors, they were more than "cool" when it came to hearing that little motor rev to the Redline.

The comments about big cubic inch motors are obiviously correct but, you'll have to do some things to the car to help control that power/torque (i.e. subframe connectors, some form of traction setup, etc.) The rearend you choose will also have to be well thought out. The GM 10 and 12 bolt can handle the power of the big blocks but are, on the low end of cost, better suited for the small block putting out a moderate amount of power. My dad had a '67 Coupe with a mild 454 ci in it. That car would haul 'em, when the pinion yoke didn't break.

400 hp with the 327 is stretching it, unless of course, you shoot the juice. Even then.... It all comes down to money. How much do you have? How much do you want to spend? How fast do you want to go? How often are you going to go fast?

I'm probably in the minority on this matter but, I believe building a car, any car, with the intent of staying original is good, if you have an exceptional base to start with. It sounds like you have that part covered. But, in reality, how many of us have the money it takes to restore one to showroom condition? I don't get the impression that you are trying to build a Barrett Jackson record breaker. The bottom line is, it's your car. Do with it as you please and have fun while doing it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,122 Posts
I like an orignal car, too, to look at at shows and stuff like that. And I certainly know and respect that a great many people take a lot of pride in a good all original resoration.

And, it would be nice to see some pics and details on this particular car. I have a LOT of respect for a true survivor, even or maybe especially one that has been "modded" somewhat back in the day.

But a base 327-210 coupe isn't really anything special, it'll certainly never be a "stupid money" restoration.

There is a number cast into your heads, under the valve covers, between the valve springs. You can check that number on mortec.com to determine if they are the originalt type heads. If they are, then they are seriously limiting your performance. Small valves, small ports, big chambers and low compression.

The only differences between a 210 HP 327 and a 275 HP 327 was those heads and a 4bbl carb.

As far as numbers, just don't have the block decked (much) and they'll still be there. Mine are.

For some odd reason, I kinda like having the engine block Chevy built my car with purring under the hood. Somehow this remains true even though as of now, the block is the ONLY part of the original drivetrain left.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top