There are as many recommendations (opinions) as there are brands and oil formulations. All you need to assure your engine's long life is to add DZZP as an additive to bring the level up to 1500 parts per million. All motor oil has been dropping in DZZP annually. This includes Rotella and other diesel engine oils which had been traditionally higher in DZZP than spark fired motor oils.
Note that two wise members are recommending asking your engine builder for a recommendation. The reasoning behind this is because only the engine builder knows the clearances inside your the motor and whether he used a large fillet chamfer on the crank throws that narrows the bearing width and thus increases the rate of the engine's internal oil leak.
I used to build a lot of motors, and no two where alike as different customers had different goals. Oil companies have different formulations, to meet these different engine needs. So just saying use Rotella or Rizoline will not provide enough information. Here is information I mined off the internet, because I am to lazy to go to my files and read through a one inch binder full of chemical safety sheets listing the molecular content of each brand and formulation of motor oil.
Valvoline advertisies a high mileage motor that is "high" in DZZP in an SM rated motor oil. I know high is a relative term, so here are some numbers:
Here are the caps for the different grades (copied from another forum):
SH API oil rating 1996
zinc = 0.130%, 1300 ppm (parts per million)
phosphorous = 0.120%, 1200 ppm
SJ API oil rating 2001 SL API oil rating 2004
zinc = 0.110%, 1100 ppm
phosphorous = 0.100%, 1000 ppm
SM API oil rating 2005
zinc = 0.087%, 870 ppm
phosphorous = 0.080%, 800 ppm
After JAN 2006 DZZP compounds dropped to nearly half of the quantity added to motor oil back in 1969. Your motor has not changed appreciably since it was first built by Chevy. It is fair to assume that that motor requires the same EP protection that it had back then. This is why you need to pick your favorite brand and formulation and add DZZP to bring it up to the "good old days"; unless you have cats.
Yes it is ZDDP, but I have dyslexia and I have bad breath too, but yes you are correct ZDDP, which as we all know is the short cut for Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. Basically Zinc is a sacrificial metal that gets ripped to shreds under the pressure of the metal on metal contact between a cam lobe and the bottom of a flat tappet.
Ford used to use a EP compound based on Cyanide but they have moved on to other compounds now for some reason (such as cutting your finger while working on a nine inch rear and not feeling well soon after that, or feeling anything as it could cause nerve palsies.) Since Zinc is chemically reactive newer synthetic motor oils use chlorinated lead compounds as every one knows how well humans get along with lead.
You are correct on Brad Penn motor oil (formerly known as Kendal GT the green oil). The company sold their good name to Shell Oil company for a couple bucks I'm sure, but Shell didn't block them from producing the same motor oil that they always made under a new name from the same oil wells located in Bradford Pennsylvania.
I heard this hard to believe story from two petroleum engineers that refine oil in Tampa FL, which is as far as you can get from a producing oil well. Fidel Castro caused a stir when he sold the rights to explore for oil off the costal plane north of Cuba . This cause hurt feelings as any oil spills located in the Gulf Stream would lead to the spilled oil to pollute the entire Eastern seaboard. This is the same seaboard and populace that prohibits oil exploration for fear of a spill.
Joe Gibbs break in for 20 minutes during cam break in if flat tappet, change oil and filter with the other half of the case you bought, you then need to change it one more time before 400-500 miles. Once you break the cam in and change the oil, don't idle it, drive it to put a load on it and seal the rings. 4th gear at 30mph and excelerate firmly to 60 and then let the motor bring the speed down to 30 and repeat, each time watching how much oil blows out on decel, it will get better each time until it stops, you will see it. It is hard to find a nice open road to do it, avoid idleing a new motor. One thing I found was if you are racing the car, the 10/40 dropped to low at the end of the track for me, the 20/50 does not. If you are not racing it, 10/30 or 40 is fine
the latest idea on breaking in ...and seems to make sense...once timing and tuning is pretty good drive it like you stole it for the first few hundred miles to really seat the rings well. No more taking it easy.
It's not a scientific study doing it once but I did it on my crate engine and seems great ..3000 miles so far.
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