[Just 1 More]

Which one? I have tubular A-arms, Pro-forged BJ's and Viking coil overs w/550# springs.
Just another pro tour wannbe street cruiser

They seem to range from 1", 1.125, 1.250 to 1.5"
Range from $145.99 (Summit) to $525.00 (Ridetech)
Would I really notice any difference between a 1.5" Ridetech muscle bar for $525 and a Summit 1.125 for $146 ???

Hollow or solid

Ride Tech Muscle bar $525
Eibach $295
Hotchkis $286
Heidts $267
DSE $260
Global West $236
QA1 $224
Hellwig $199
BMR $199
Summit Racing $146

All prices are from the Summit web site

 

[68lowered]

I can't see the Ridetech bar being any better than those from Hotchkis, GW, QA1....Thanks for posting. I have an Airride suspension and was trying to figure out what to do. The rear one, I likely don't have a choice, but any of these front bars will save me a lot....

 

[Vega$69]

The 1 1/2” will be too stiff. They also make an 1 1/8” which would be better for $350.

All will work about the same. I like Hotchkiss

 

[Just 1 More]

The 1 1/2” will be too stiff. They also make an 1 1/8” which would be better for $350.

All will work about the same. I like Hotchkiss

Most look like 1 1/8" , I can't imagine there's much, if any, performance difference between the Summit 1 1/8" for $146 and the DSE 1 1/8" for $260

 

[77thor]

I went with Hotchkis front (& rear) swaybars… and I'm happy with them. :thumbsup:


Great products.

 

[tp_smith]

There seems to be no way of telling which sway bar is the best. Of course the diameter matters but what about the quality of steel used to make it? One sway bar could be made of from scrap steel, another one could be made from cold rolled steel, the last one made from spring steel etc. Who would know if it is any good until you buy it and use it for a year or two?

 

[Just 1 More]

There seems to be no way of telling which sway bar is the best. Of course the diameter matters but what about the quality of steel used to make it? One sway bar could be made of from scrap steel, another one could be made from cold rolled steel, the last one made from spring steel etc. Who would know if it is any good until you buy it and use it for a year or two?

Very true, but, who has that kind of time and money? So, i'm relying on others real world experiences with the ones they've used. :beers:

 

[davidpozzi]

In a hollow bar, I like a 1 1/8" OD X .156 wall. Hotchkis, Speed Tech have them. The Hellwig hollow version is 1 1/8" x .188" wall which is a bit stiffer for use with stock rate springs. All the hollow bars I know of are cold bent seamless tube and not heat treated, but they work fine. The Hellwig solid bars are Chrome Molly heat treated. I'd consider a 1" solid version close to the 1 1/8" hollow bars, maybe a bit softer. Some others are also hollow but I don't have info on them.

The Ride Tech bar has formed billet arms so it's more expensive to make. I dont' know the rate. It may mount further forward and have longer arms so needs to be thicker to achieve the same rate as the others. I'm not sure.

You can run a front bar only on the street but you will have some understeer. An adjustable rear bar is needed to get a perfect balance for autocross. If you consider a rear bar, get the rear bar from the same place as the front so you have a matched pair. If your rear tires are wider than the fronts, then you need a rear bar even more.

 

[Arch Stanton]

Been very happy with my Addco! Great price too!

 

[Just 1 More]

In a hollow bar, I like a 1 1/8" OD X .156 wall. Hotchkis, Speed Tech have them. The Hellwig hollow version is 1 1/8" x .188" wall which is a bit stiffer for use with stock rate springs. All the hollow bars I know of are cold bent seamless tube and not heat treated, but they work fine. The Hellwig solid bars are Chrome Molly heat treated. I'd consider a 1" solid version close to the 1 1/8" hollow bars, maybe a bit softer. Some others are also hollow but I don't have info on them.

The Ride Tech bar has formed billet arms so it's more expensive to make. I dont' know the rate. It may mount further forward and have longer arms so needs to be thicker to achieve the same rate as the others. I'm not sure.

You can run a front bar only on the street but you will have some understeer. An adjustable rear bar is needed to get a perfect balance for autocross. If you consider a rear bar, get the rear bar from the same place as the front so you have a matched pair. If your rear tires are wider than the fronts, then you need a rear bar even more.

Thanks David, my plan for the rear is going to be a TCI torque arm set up so not real sure how the swaybars will play out .. but, for now, i'm going with the DSE 1 1/8" for the front..

 

[57vette]

I took Davids advice a year or so ago and went with with the Hellwig 1.125" hollow type. Big block, Helix uppers/lowers, ProForged BJs, tall uppers, currently Hotchkis 2" drop coils. Love the handling improvement, especially the lack of heavy leaning with the OEM bar.