Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Every time I hit my brake it blows the fuse. I just recently replaced my turn signal switch and put in a wood steering wheel and horn kit from classic. What could be causing this? Is this a ground issue? I checked the fuse and it is a 20 amp, which is what it should be for the lights.
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
Brent, could be the wrong bulbs in the tails, or bad connections in the tails, or bad switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This didn't seem to start until I hooked my horn assembly up. Is there a ground in my horn assembly that I missed? Are you suppose to ground your horn? Also, I replaced my rear lamp harness a few months back and just used the same bulbs I had in it and never had a problem with anything before so i don't think it is my bulbs. Could there be any correlation to my horn assembly? Yesterday evening I went out to mess with it and noticed that my front lights didn't work, but when I went to pop out my fuse for the rear lights they came on. Also, my rear turn signals worked yesteday when I was driving it, but nothing else in the back came on (back-up light, brake light).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
I beleive your problem is in the steering columm. Brake light circuit goes from brake light switch thru the turn signal switch then out to the rear. The path thru the T/S switch alllows one side to indacte turning while the other side indicates stop. I doubt that it's directly related to the horn as the horn is on a seperate fuse form stop turn and tail.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,515 Posts
A fuse that blows as soon as power is applied indicates a short circuit. As said - it could be shorting in the bulb socket(s) or in the brake light switch. I would trace the hot wire from your brake lights forward to the dash and see if you can find where that wire is shorted to ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
When I installed my rear light assembly I used american autowire. It was the stock replacement harness. I noticed that it did not have the ground wire that my existing harness had at the passenger side rear light. I asked in another thread why this was and was told that the harness was "self grounding" and that there should not have been a seperate wire on the harness. Maybe the previous owner added that for a reason. Ill look into it this weekend and see if I can trace the issue. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, apparantly when I was screwing my sill plate in I hit my harness. Took the screws out and everything works. I do have a question though. When I engage reverse the back up lights only turn on when I go from drive to reverse. If I go from park to reverse they do not turn on. Also, the switch on the floor for my front lights, does that just turn them on and off or is that gor hi beam? When I hit the button on the floor it just turns them on and off. Just making sure that everything is working as it is supposed to. Making sure there aren't any lasting affects from the issue I was having before
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,230 Posts
Well, apparantly when I was screwing my sill plate in I hit my harness. Took the screws out and everything works. I do have a question though. When I engage reverse the back up lights only turn on when I go from drive to reverse. If I go from park to reverse they do not turn on. Also, the switch on the floor for my front lights, does that just turn them on and off or is that gor hi beam? When I hit the button on the floor it just turns them on and off. Just making sure that everything is working as it is supposed to. Making sure there aren't any lasting affects from the issue I was having before
High beam switch is bad. Check neutral safety switch for (R) lights
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
Brent - congratulations another landmine avoided.
Glad it was that easy. Wrap the puncture wound on the harness very well and tight with quality electrical tape. I think all years had a metal channel cover that protected the harness from puncture. But you can use a bit of tape to hold the harness away from the screw holes.

Yes the switch on the floor just toggles the high/low beam once the headlights are manually switched on. It will NOT flash the headlights like a modern column stick will. So unless you mean when the headlight switch is pulled full on, you push the dimmer and the lights go on, click again the lights go off? That would mean either the dimmer switch is bad, or the headlights - both bulbs - are missing either the low beam or the high beam. You can test the resistance over both filaments of the bulb.

I don't know if I know what shifter you are using but I suspect automatic trans with a horse-shoe or stirrup shifter where the switch for the backup lights is mounted on the side of the yoke. There are adjustments screws and or the plastic housing of the switch is worn out and can be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have a 2 speed powerglyde column shift. What I mean on the front lights is that when I turn the front lights on, if I press the dimmer switch on the floor it turns the front lights on and off. Could my issue with the screw have caused this? Regarding patching the harness; as long as it took for me to get this back together, there is no way I am removing the seat, trim plate to access the harness. I'm just going to pray I did t do any damage to the harness and that it continues to work.
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
I have a 2 speed powerglyde column shift.
Okay then the switch is on the column I suspect it is similar to how the manual trans moves the column sleeve that activates the switch. Do you have the AIM?

What I mean on the front lights is that when I turn the front lights on, if I press the dimmer switch on the floor it turns the front lights on and off. Could my issue with the screw have caused this?
Okay on this item you either have dead beams (either both highs or both lows) which would be strange to have them both blow at once or you have a dead floor dimmer switch. They are cheap and easy to swap in and out. You can test the bulbs by reading resistance over the lugs, no resistance means dead filament on that lug (high or low). But the floor switch would be the first place to look. It sits in crap all year long so they corrode easy. pull up the carpet and look at the contacts, as maybe you just have a loose connection.

I do not think your harness screw issues caused this since the harness you penetrated services the rear.


Regarding patching the harness; as long as it took for me to get this back together, there is no way I am removing the seat, trim plate to access the harness. I'm just going to pray I did t do any damage to the harness and that it continues to work.
If it is in the right place you need not remove the seats. Just peel back the rug from the threshold and see whats up. The nick in the insulation will allow the wire to corrode and will fail prematurely. Fix it right the first time so there isn't a next time IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
AIM? There is a cover that goes over the threshold and in order to access the threshold you have to undo a screw by the kick panel and back by the rear armrest. I'll take a look and see if I can peel the cover back without removing it. Not sure yet wether my hi or low beams are out. I honestly never used my low beams so if it is my hi beams I can atleast get by until I have the time to work on it. So if I have a dead hi or low beam then I just replace the bulbs and not mess with the switch?
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
AIM is the acronym for Assembly Instruction Manual - aka the bible. Chevrolet line crews used the manual as reference as to parts and procedures during the assembly process. Every Camaro owner should own a copy of their years AIM.

There is a cover that goes over the threshold and in order to access the threshold you have to undo a screw by the kick panel and back by the rear armrest. I'll take a look and see if I can peel the cover back without removing it.
Well if its is a PITA in a 67 then don't sweat it but remember its there as a potential landmine down the road as a short.

Not sure yet whether my hi or low beams are out. I honestly never used my low beams so if it is my hi beams I can at least get by until I have the time to work on it.
You should have brighter headlights once you clean up your hood lighting harness, grounds and main splice and junction block. And like I said the floor dimmer swap out is a five minute or less project. The switch is cheap so no point in rebuilding it just replace it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Okay, now I'm wondering if my stepson told me wrong on my back up lights. I had him stand behind me earlier and he told me a couple of times when I went in reverse that the back up lights didn't come on. Now I just went out to my garage and went from park to reverse about 10 times and it worked every time......
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
lol if he did, then next time he is behind it and you are in reverse take your foot off the brake.:p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Okay, so thus is weird. I went out this morning and pulled the carpet up and yeh, I can just lift the channel cover and look inside. I realized that the channel was to the sides of where I screwed the channel screws in and my harness was not penetrated. Where I screwed up was I used the wrong screws. I found the right screws which were about half as long. I also cut back the carpet around the screws, whereas before I just penetrated through the carpet. Why in the heck would these long screws do this if they weren't even touching the harness?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,348 Posts
Now I just went out to my garage and went from park to reverse about 10 times and it worked every time......
The reverse switch, also included is the neutral safety switch for the starter, see the purple wires? - starter power out(purple/white wire), start signal from the ign switch(purple wire), may need adjustment.

You can loosen the two screws securing the switch to the column, select REV, and slide the switch from side to side, make a mental note of distance moved, half the total distance and secure the switch.
Test starting in both Park & Neutral ensuring correct placement of the switch.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top