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Other than having to re-adjust the valve lash on a regular basis, what are the inconviences of Solid Lifters for a weekend SBC 350 cruiser?

According to my Dyno2000 Software, they seems to offer comparable performances to Roller Hydraulic Lifters for a fraction of the price.

Thanks, Daniel.
 

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I agree, why not.
The always adjusting deal is a myth, if you use poly locks and your valvetrain is in good condition it should never change. I check my solid roller lash every oil change, and if starts changing I get worried.
 

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I have always used solid lifters with polylocks and do need to adjust when they start ticking, just a Few times a year But its no big deal to adjust once you now how...Crash
 

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Fwiw, up until about the early to mid '50's almost all engines were solid lifter cam engines.

This changed when the makers got concerned that people wouldn't lash them periodically so they decided to go to hy-lifter cams.

It wasn't so much the noise from too loose a lash, but rather that the exhaust valves would over time tighten up and if not caught would burn and become ruined.

This happened to the early Beatles b/c they were air-cooled as well as had really tight lash's so therefore probably needed to be checked every 3 to 4,000 mile oil change or bad, bad, bad!!

I think Studebaker stayed solid lifter up until the end. And Ford's old 272 "Y"-block engine family were all solid liftered..

And now to get back to performance cams, Chevy, with their great old L-79, 350hp/327, -151 cam was just about the first to offer a milder hy-version of their 'Vette solid lifter cam so that guys wouldn't have to lash it..

Think about how this simple event affected our hobby!!

I love solid lifter cams! My 496 has one in it now.. With good valve springs, you can pretty well rpm them as high as you feel like...

pdq67

PS., and a good tune-up back then could consist of the following too!!

Plugs, points and condenser, dizzy cap and rotor; oil and filter: a valve lashing; MAYBE even a valve and head de-coking too........ And probably every 25,000 miles, the great big garbage can oil-bath air cleaner was flushed and cleaned, dried out and then refilled w/ 40 or so wt oil...........
 

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I have run a Lunati Solid cam for the last three years. I put about 15K street miles a year on it plus some track time. I checked the lash about every 3-4 months and had to adjust for wear 1 time after initial break-in. It also allowed me to have more tuneability for power at the track by changing the lash a couple of thous either way. I will run another soild in my next motor also.
 

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I agree completely a solid roller cam is the only way to go. (yes I said roller, but only because of the ZDDP oil thing you can read about on any of many threads covering this ZDDP topic).

Larger Dave
 

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Many years ago I would have not agreed with what Dave said, but knowing what I know years later,, you are just money and time ahead by going roller. This oil thing has really hurt the flat tappet cams. Love the clatter of solids but its just a gamble now.
 

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ONLY if you are willing to shell out the bucks for a set of Isky Red Zones, or Crower Hippo's, it is not worth the trouble or headache for a "street" car to go solid roller. Low rpms kill the needle bearings due to lack of oil which leads to heat build up, flattening the needle bearings, and then KABOOM!!

I have a Lunati solid ft in my 350, and use Shell Rotella for the Zinc. Even Chevron Delo has Moly in it for extra protection. I add STP Oil treatment for the added zinc. It has more than enough power to generate a lot of "dropped jaw" looks.

FWIW - I am going solid roller on my BBC, using Isky Red Zones with the EZ roll bushing. No needle bearings to worry about, $700 later. $350 for the Lunati Voodoo 60234. There is a big difference between $1100 and $175...
 

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I have run my fairly mild street solid roller for about 5 years now, with tons of street driving and track time. I'm running Comp hitech roller lifters. I have considered buying another set and replacing mine "just because", but I have no reason as of yet to worry. I know guys that have run them for years, it's good practice to replace them after a few years I feel, cheap security, when they go they can ruin your day.
The key is not running radical spring pressure on the street.
 

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There is NOTHING at all wrong w/ daily driving a decent STREET ENGINE sized solid lifter cam if you just listen to it and when it start's to "sewing machining" on you, stop and lash it proper..

Done it for years back then.

pdq67
 

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For those that worry about needle rollers on roller lifters, there is the solid pin type roller that the big boys use. I have not heard of anyone using top quaility needle roller lifters that have had roller bearings go out. I alway look for the large roller wheel designs. Comp seems to have a good EDM roller lifter.
 

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For those that worry about needle rollers on roller lifters, there is the solid pin type roller that the big boys use. I have not heard of anyone using top quaility needle roller lifters that have had roller bearings go out. I alway look for the large roller wheel designs. Comp seems to have a good EDM roller lifter.
Just exactly what I did. I have on the way the Isky RedZone solid roller lifters with the EZ roller option.

I know of several guys locally that have at least 2-3 engines ruined by exploding needle bearings on their street/strip cars. They went solid ft now.
 
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