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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
when i stop for a wile my car stars running hot but when i return to the road the tenp drops back down to normal?

please help radiator had just been rotted and redone
 

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Third gen camaros are well know for overheat problems. The issue seems to be the design of the front end. Air flow is not the best as it is and is difficult to improve.

If the plastic air dam below the radiator support (curb catcher) gets removed or damaged, it can contribute to the problem. A bad fan or bad relay can also do it. If the radiator gets plugged up, that will make things worse. A couple of things that can cause a radiator to get plugged are mixing dex-cool with green antifreeze, using a diluted coolant mixture with water having a high mineral content, and some leak sealer products can plug the radiator.
 

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they are designed to run hot like that for emissions. they run about 230 or so at idle, then going down the road they should run at the t-stat temp of 195.
 

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Only ask your questions once, as it confuses some of us and irritates others.

Only ask your questions once, as it confuses some of us and irritates others.
 

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If this is for a 4th gen then you may want to check to see if all the air has been bled out of the coolant lines,LT1's has a reverse cooling system.

There are bleeder screws that needed to be open when replacing the coolant in these cars so air pockets don't fourm in the heads and cause hot pockets and head warping.

Rick
 

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The old school mechanic will tell you that if it runs hot sitting still,its the water pump...and it doesnt have to be leaking to be bad. and if it runs hot at speed or on the interstate its the radiator. so keep that in mind as well
 

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The old school mechanic will tell you that if it runs hot sitting still,its the water pump...and it doesnt have to be leaking to be bad. and if it runs hot at speed or on the interstate its the radiator. so keep that in mind as well
That's why they are old school and probably out of a job now :D

If it is running hot at idle then you have a fan problem, could be anything from a bad fan motor to a pcm not commanding the fan relay on. I'm betting that it is either a fan motor or the connector at the fan motor is burnt up.
 

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That's why they are old school and probably out of a job now :D

If it is running hot at idle then you have a fan problem, could be anything from a bad fan motor to a pcm not commanding the fan relay on. I'm betting that it is either a fan motor or the connector at the fan motor is burnt up.
Well...using old school mentality instead of parts changer and computers mentality to solve you problems would bring you to the conclusion that if the fan is not working or the water pump is not working your talking about the same basic thing...lack of cooling at idle due to either water flow or air flow,and I would hope that anyone who had a cooling problem had checked the basics like,coolant in the system,fan working,caps okay etc.:D
 

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There are some aftermarket water pumps that move fluid a bit better under low RPM. I think Edelbrock makes some. The difference is the impeller has a cage around it to help move the fluid. A standard OEM impeller is basically bent steal similar to the cooling fan around the front of your alternator. I've also heard of a metal washer of sorts that you can weld onto an OEM pump impeller to improve the flow.
 

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i've never seen a high flow water pump for an LT1.
one way to check if the water pump is pumping is to feel the heater hoses. if there is water flow, they will get warm. also, the radiator will get hot as the coolant flows thru it.
 

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Well...using old school mentality instead of parts changer and computers mentality to solve you problems would bring you to the conclusion that if the fan is not working or the water pump is not working your talking about the same basic thing...lack of cooling at idle due to either water flow or air flow,and I would hope that anyone who had a cooling problem had checked the basics like,coolant in the system,fan working,caps okay etc.:D
You are right..on old school cars..but nowadays a water pump problem is completely different than a cooling fan problem because the 2 of them are not mechanically linked on most vehicles anymore, and don't get me started on the ones that are still mechanically linked but are hydraulically controlled. I am not sure of what you were trying to imply with the parts changer / computer mentality remark, but a parts changer I am not and don't condone the practice and if you don't have a computer mentality on todays cars(such as the 96 camaro we are talking about) it's time to find a new profession.
 

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i've never seen a high flow water pump for an LT1.
one way to check if the water pump is pumping is to feel the heater hoses. if there is water flow, they will get warm. also, the radiator will get hot as the coolant flows thru it.
But make sure there is enough coolant in the system first, if the level is low enough the heater hoses will be considerably cooler than the other hoses.
 

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You are right..on old school cars..but nowadays a water pump problem is completely different than a cooling fan problem because the 2 of them are not mechanically linked on most vehicles anymore, and don't get me started on the ones that are still mechanically linked but are hydraulically controlled. I am not sure of what you were trying to imply with the parts changer / computer mentality remark, but a parts changer I am not and don't condone the practice and if you don't have a computer mentality on todays cars(such as the 96 camaro we are talking about) it's time to find a new profession.
The basic components of the cooling system are the same as they have been since the time of the modeT. Radiator,water pump and fan...as a general rule on production cars, auto makers have yet to improve on that set up. The whole cooling system from a mechanical standpoint boils down to,Radiator and water pump do the cooling at road speed...Radiator and water pump do the cooling sitting still with the air flow component being provided by the fan.Doesnt matter what type fan,hell it could be a strong breeze if it was adequate enough to cool the coils.I understand your point about the fan working properly...but it has been a general rule since the invention of the radiator/pump/fan cooling system that,if a car is getting hot at speed then you have a radiator problem...if its getting hot at idle its usually a water pump problem assuming the fan is working,doesnt matter the year
 

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The basic components of the cooling system are the same as they have been since the time of the modeT. Radiator,water pump and fan...as a general rule on production cars, auto makers have yet to improve on that set up. The whole cooling system from a mechanical standpoint boils down to,Radiator and water pump do the cooling at road speed...Radiator and water pump do the cooling sitting still with the air flow component being provided by the fan.Doesnt matter what type fan,hell it could be a strong breeze if it was adequate enough to cool the coils.I understand your point about the fan working properly...but it has been a general rule since the invention of the radiator/pump/fan cooling system that,if a car is getting hot at speed then you have a radiator problem...if its getting hot at idle its usually a water pump problem assuming the fan is working,doesnt matter the year
You are 100 percent correct if you ASSUME that the fan is working properly and I am 100 percent correct if I ASSUME that the water pump is working properly. Let this be a lesson to the both of us to never ASSUME anything, that's what gets good mechanics into trouble faster than they/ I can get out of it. Now what if the car overheats at speed but not at idle..and yes this is becoming more of a common problem than you think!! I'm not trying to be an %$$ here just trying to show how ther auto mfgs HAVE managed to change the basic principle and overcomplicate the car more than it needs to be.
 

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You are 100 percent correct if you ASSUME that the fan is working properly and I am 100 percent correct if I ASSUME that the water pump is working properly. Let this be a lesson to the both of us to never ASSUME anything, that's what gets good mechanics into trouble faster than they/ I can get out of it. Now what if the car overheats at speed but not at idle..and yes this is becoming more of a common problem than you think!! I'm not trying to be an %$$ here just trying to show how ther auto mfgs HAVE managed to change the basic principle and overcomplicate the car more than it needs to be.
Agreed
 
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