I took my 69 to work today in sunny hot as hell ca...runnin down the fwy I noticed the temp gauge goin up higher than usual (I know I need a shroud) it leveled around 210 degrees...can this range the gaskets? Is it way to hot? What can happen at that temp or is that a normal high temp?.. Any info needed..I mOst likely will have to take it tomorrow... Thanks yall
Will 210 degrees blow head gasket?
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210* is my personal comfort trigger. Up to and including 210* I don't get too concerned. You can go higher than that, but not motor should see that unless there is a problem.
I wouldn't worry about having done any damage. But if you car spends a lot of time at 210* or goes higher I'd investigate better cooling.
I wouldn't worry about having done any damage. But if you car spends a lot of time at 210* or goes higher I'd investigate better cooling.
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That is within the normal operating range. Many years ago I tossed a belt on my car and before I realized it, it hit 260. 
I was very concerned I damaged something but It was fine. I ran that motor for 7 years after that.
I was very concerned I damaged something but It was fine. I ran that motor for 7 years after that.
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210 is fine - with antifreeze in it you didn't even get close to boiling over - I wouldn't want it running there all the time though, like was said - that would make me think there's a cooling system problem. It should stay pretty close to your thermostat temperature on a good cooling system.
If u damage the engine anything under 235 degs...its not the heat its the engineering assemble and deserves to die...
The stock idiot light sensor is 235 degs...
Keep in mind that stock engines are not tuned to the 'limits' so keep fatblocks post above in mind...running hot dont be too ready to jump on the throttle or load up ....
The stock idiot light sensor is 235 degs...
Keep in mind that stock engines are not tuned to the 'limits' so keep fatblocks post above in mind...running hot dont be too ready to jump on the throttle or load up ....
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I wouldn't start worrying about it under over 230-240 and then really only if you had aluminum heads.
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OE thermostat temp for opening is 195°F, check Owner's Manual, and fully open, generally, 205°F. Cooling system is only designed for a min 20°F differential temperature between radiator inlet and radiator outlet.
As long as it doesn't puke, er, boilover, you're fine. This is the advice given to me by three GM dealers.
As long as it doesn't puke, er, boilover, you're fine. This is the advice given to me by three GM dealers.
Yep
And that substantuates the quote above
Our old 1gen cooling sytems are way over built...they will not run anymore than 3 deg over the thermostat rating, no matter air temp, timing, towing up a mountain untill one hits the rarified altude air..snow line.
If the get hot idle /low speed
shround, thermostat, blocked cores, water pump spun the impeller
If run hot over 50 mph
Thermostat, bottom hose renefocing corroded, blocked cores, spun whater pump impeller.
Thermostat, blocked cores and lower hose most common
Water pumps start leaking before impleelers slip generally...have only seen 1 go loose on a rebuilt pump yrs ago...touch with a mig welder fixes that.
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10,475 Posts
210* is nothing at all. On a hot day 90*+ my car runs down the highway at 210-215. I have see it as high as 230* this is with aluminum heads and still no issues and has never boiled over.
With that said my radiator is too small for my application, but I don't have any room.
In your situation it sounds like a radiator that is not adequate or a water flow problem. This is assuming you have nothing blocking your radiator.
Not exactly true. Way too many variables. If you are talking completely stock with everything working as it should. I agree.
Add some HP to the mix and the stock cooling system can get taxed. We haven't even talked about A/F mixtures or timing.
With that said my radiator is too small for my application, but I don't have any room.
In your situation it sounds like a radiator that is not adequate or a water flow problem. This is assuming you have nothing blocking your radiator.
Not exactly true. Way too many variables. If you are talking completely stock with everything working as it should. I agree.
Add some HP to the mix and the stock cooling system can get taxed. We haven't even talked about A/F mixtures or timing.
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32,896 Posts
If the overflow is puking with conviction and the rad cap is in good repair, meaning gasket is good and spring is solid, yes, it is overheating.
However, normal operation is some mild overflow because generally, the cold coolant level is about two inches below the cap, for expansion. Once this two inch level is obtained, the system generally does not overflow, unless an usually hot ambient temperature and the engine has just been shut off right after a freeway run without a couple minutes of idle cooldown, then maybe a few tablespoons.
A good check of coolant sytem pressure being maintained, with a rag in hand, squeeze the upper rad hose. It should be tight - solid to the squeeze. If not, replace rad cap with a good min 16 lb cap. The higher pressure increases the coolant boiling point, 3°F for every pound of pressure, ie, with 16 lb cap, boiling point goes from 212°F to 260°F.
Of course, an easy fix would be to add an overflow tank and keep tabs of the coolant level in the tank to monitor coolant being used, or not. Then the radiator can be filled to the brim with coolant and go from there as a reference point.
However, normal operation is some mild overflow because generally, the cold coolant level is about two inches below the cap, for expansion. Once this two inch level is obtained, the system generally does not overflow, unless an usually hot ambient temperature and the engine has just been shut off right after a freeway run without a couple minutes of idle cooldown, then maybe a few tablespoons.
A good check of coolant sytem pressure being maintained, with a rag in hand, squeeze the upper rad hose. It should be tight - solid to the squeeze. If not, replace rad cap with a good min 16 lb cap. The higher pressure increases the coolant boiling point, 3°F for every pound of pressure, ie, with 16 lb cap, boiling point goes from 212°F to 260°F.
Of course, an easy fix would be to add an overflow tank and keep tabs of the coolant level in the tank to monitor coolant being used, or not. Then the radiator can be filled to the brim with coolant and go from there as a reference point.
Well when one says "old 1gen cooling sytems..." that does mean factory stock in working condition....and because way over built they hand rather 'heavy' street strip AND track mods nps...
This is my eldest son 20 odd yrs ago helping out a Freind and I on a Aussie GM Holden '69Monaro HT.
Thats a great classic pic man...mine is from a couple months ago...I have four kids with the youngest only 3 when they come out to the garage all together with me it just turns to chaos.....lol..my garage is far from kid proof...lol...next project....
need a shroud, but unsure if I can use a stock one from classic or the sheet metal/ or chrome fan shrouds they sell....??..whats a good one for a non stock motor....unsure if the radiator is stock....it looks pretty old and banged up tho....
need a shroud, but unsure if I can use a stock one from classic or the sheet metal/ or chrome fan shrouds they sell....??..whats a good one for a non stock motor....unsure if the radiator is stock....it looks pretty old and banged up tho....
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32,896 Posts
Definitely need a shroud and if the correct frame mounts and engine pads are used, I don't see why not, then an OE shroud would work.
When coolant is cold, drain the radiator, remove bottom hose, place hand over outlet, fill radiator with water, remove hand. Radiator should be empty in about 5 seconds.
Of course, you've check the inside of the radiator to make sure the tubes are all clean, no scaling or crud at the end of the tubes.
When coolant is cold, drain the radiator, remove bottom hose, place hand over outlet, fill radiator with water, remove hand. Radiator should be empty in about 5 seconds.
Of course, you've check the inside of the radiator to make sure the tubes are all clean, no scaling or crud at the end of the tubes.
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I have a stock shroud and fan set up on mine, 408 SBC 450hp / 500 ftlb of torque on the engine dyno during tuning. Parked or running down the road it doesn't get over 190 in 100 degree weather. It does have an Alumitech radiator in it - the wider one for a 68 AC equipped Camaro but I have to believe a stock radiator in good condition would do the same. When I drove my street strip hard top with a 350 around years ago, with a 2 core radiator and a stock shroud it never came close to running hot either. I can't think of any reason to use anything other than a stock shroud if you want good cooling and have the tabs on the radiator to hold it. They are still available GM too - I bought one 6 months ago for mine.
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