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Looking thru the forums I notice that most if not all the vehicles that I have seen that run a Wilwood Master cylinder dont run a booster.

Dont you need to run a booster with the wilwood master cylinder or is purely a cosmetic thing not to run the booster?

I would love to get the bulk of the booster out of the engine bay but still want the stopping power that it provides. I run Baer Discs on all four corners on a gen 1

Look forward to your input
 

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Thats a good queston.Ive read on here or pro touring.com that wilwwod kits are designed to run with no booster but one of the agents for wilwood in NZ told me not to run without the booster because the pedal would be way to hard.I emailed Frank from Prodgy Customs.They have some nice Wilwwod kits designed for 1st gens.
 

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Keep the bore size in mind what ever master you decide.When I got my first Wilwood master I was told 1" which will work on non power but is not the best.I then bought a 7/8" from Frank at Prodegy which works well but still is not the braking power of a power booster.

There are some cool hydraulic systems out there now that I see alot of people running.If you do go with a Wilwood non power use dot-3 willwood fluid by no means use dot-5 this is where my whole system starting on a bad path.

Do you home work before you decide so you dont end up like me.If you decide to go with the Wilwood 7/8" check the rod length on mine I had to weld the hole up on the U bracket and redrill the hole because the rod didn't have enough threads on it.

My brake system was the worst part of doing my car for me.Before I got the system right I crashed the car in the garage.This was when the car was done except for a front end alignment.This happened when shortening up the U bracket the master was just hanging on the fire wall.I know no not to try and move a car with no brakes this was a hard lesson.Needless to say my brake system was a night mare for me.

If you want to stop like a late model you better go with power.The look of the Willwood was the reason for me and it definatly will not stop like a power brake system.I have to show my engine bay now because the look is what I was going for.

 

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I also went thru the master cylinder deal like Dave did. I have the 4 wheel disc from Baer. Also power booster. I went with the 1" bore Wilwood MC and the brakes were terrible. The Baer kit I have has a 15/16" bore MC ( steel ). I put the one that came in the kit on the car and the brakes were fine.

Now try to find a 15/16" MC aluminum polished. I did find one and if your interested I can try to find out where I got it. It is a nice MC.

The 3/4" Wilwood would work but was told it would have alot of peddle travel. Plus it has a threaded rod sticking out the back of the MC and I did not know what I would have to modify to make it mount to the booster.

At first I thought between a 1" bore and 15/16" bore,,,there wasnt much difference between 1/16" but there is 300 psi difference.

If you call Baer, Wilwood, CCP,, you will get different answers and a headache.

Here is a picture, It does have a finned top though.

 

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As mentioned, Wilwood are designed as manual brakes. That does not mean you cannot run power brakes, you can run power assist if you like, but Wilwood work well as manual brakes.

Now where I do see a problem is when someone buys a Wilwood master cylinder designed for manual brake systems, and trys to use is on a brake system designed as a power brake system like a factory Corvette set up for example. Systems designed as power brake systems require more volume then a 7/8 bore master can supply, so a 1" must be used, which creates a lot of pedal pressue with no booster.

We have a line of electric booster / masters coming in a week, and have used a couple with good results. So I hold a lot of hope for these electric booster when power assist is desired.
 
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