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I've been jackin' with my front “Manual” disc conversion off and on for over a month can’t seem to get it functioning. I have Wilwood Dynalite 11” front kit with new pre-bent stainless lines front to back. Wilwood 1” bore 260-8555p MC, residual pressure valve (for rear drums) and Wilwood prop valve, stock drums in rear, should be simple right, wrong. Lots of issues with Wilwood (not here to bash them, yet) wrong reducer fittings in MC box, no plugs for 2 extra outputs, wrong fittings in prop valve box. Had them ship right ones 2 different times. Bogus right front caliper, one of the pistons was puking fluid, ordered a new one from Summit (they’re awesome) waited for the replacement to ship, at this point I’m 3 weeks into a weekend project, now the MC problem (I think). We Bench bled the first MC twice, no pressure to the rear, we bled and bled the system had front brakes no rear, ordered a new MC from Summit (they’re awesome) still same problem with the new one. When bleeding the rears almost no fluid is coming out of the bleeders. Checked all the lines, even blew air through them to check for any obstruction, lines are good. Put a used GM disc MC on, re-bled the system no problem, system pumps up all 4 wheels will lock up. What am I missing? Wilwood says their MC is a 2 to 1 pressure ratio over stock (not sure what that means) and if it’s better I want to use it, at this point unless I’m screwin up here it’s a POS, looks like I might have to go with a stock MC. Any help would be great.

Ray
 

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Is there a pushrod difference? You could be getting bunk masters, but incorrect pushrod length will impede bleeding. Since the GM master works OK, seems like it has to be either the master or a pushrod problem. I just recently saw a master working on the primary piston and not on the secondary due to internal piston problems... first i ever saw, but it was similar to a pushrod problem except internal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there a pushrod difference? You could be getting bunk masters, but incorrect pushrod length will impede bleeding. Since the GM master works OK, seems like it has to be either the master or a pushrod problem. I just recently saw a master working on the primary piston and not on the secondary due to internal piston problems... first i ever saw, but it was similar to a pushrod problem except internal.
The pushrod looks ok, we checked and it's in the upper hole on pedal assembly and appears to be in the back of the MC. An additional pushrod came with the MC, it's way too long. The additional pushrod is for the 7/8" MC according to Wilwoods site.

Possible I need the 7/8" MC?

Any comments welcome, I'm trying to get the car ready for a show on Saturday, and was planning on spending Friday eve/night detailing instead of troubleshooting brakes.

Thanks,
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What did your 'used GM disc master' come from?
And why can't you use it?
I can and probably will for this weekend, it's actually a power disc MC without the booster and it's kinda old and funky. I'll rattle ball can it, shine it up and go with it for the show.

I've just been messing with this so much I think I'm snow blind. Thought maybe there's something I overlooked. Tomorrow morning I'll try the Wilwood MC again after the GM MC seems to have worked getting the lines bled.

I read somewhere (maybe here) about the 2 to 1 pressure ratio of Wilwood's MC being better for manual disc/drum with no booster, anyone know anything about this?

Thanks again,
Ray
 

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Contact Tech support at Wilwood. They are a great bunch and very helpful. I have the 140-2285D kit on my car and absolutely no problems.

Bob
 
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