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Discussion Starter #1
I did a drum to 4 disc Wilwood conversion over the past winter. Haven't driven the car much (still putting in interior).. Drove it down to the end of my street today and on return getting ready to pull into garage the front rotors locked up.. In addition, the brake pedal got very hard.. Took one of the front wheels off and opened the bleeder for a second and then it loosened up a little.. Checked and reservoir is full of fluid.

I have a Wilwood 4 disc setup with a Wilwood 1 1/8" mc.. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why it would have locked up.. I wasn't driving it hard.. It was less than a mile and everything worked fine until I went to pull back in garage..

Any ideas on what I should be looking for?
 

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Make sure when you mount the master cylinder it does not spring back away from the booster. In other words, make sure the booster pin is not pushing on the master cylinder piston.

Also, make sure there is free play inside the car at the pedal and the booster push rod. It the rod is adjusted to long and the pedal is always pushing a tiny bit, it will hold slight pressure that will creep as you use the brakes more and more as you drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.. It's a manual brake car, no booster.. Pushrod is the same that came with the Wilwood MC..

I am going to check and see if the rears are loose, and then crack the bleeders on the front and see if they loosen up.

What should I be looking for on the pushrod to make sure it is the correct length, it has threads/tunable?

Also, what should the psi be on the fronts and rear?
 

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I know what is wrong. During the installation the push rod got tweaked and bent the washer at the back of the master that retains the rod. And now the washer is bent and binding.

I bet dollars to donuts on this. Pull the master and see.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got up under the dash and turned pushrod in as far as it would go (~ another 1/2" in) into the clevis making it shorter.. And, in looking the return spring was not hooked up to the pedal.. It made the pedal softer and they didn't seem to bind.. took it up and down the street couple times and pushed down hard.. everything seemed to work..

I'm still not ready to declare victory.. Frank you got me thinking on that washer.. I am going to do some more stop and go this weekend, and if it does it again, taking the mc off and check the washer..

Here's a question though.. Called Wilwood this afternoon and they said I should not have the original drum distribution block installed now with the disc conversion. The tech guy said it has a built in 10psi residual pressure valve built into it and I should take it off? He recommended taking off completely and putting a tee in for the two fronts. Is anybody else using the original drum distribution block? Alot of threads on here talk about guys still using them with the conversions.. Thanks!
 

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I've got the same set up as you have and I'm just using a T for the fronts and an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear Wilwood discs.
Everything works great. I did it this way after talking to Wilwood tech.
 

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I had the same problem and had to take the U bracket off and weld the hole closed and redrilled it further to the front of the car.This was because the push rod was to long.Frank is the man and he helped me my first Wilwood master was a 1" and he and Wilwood recomended 7/8" for non power.With 1 1/8 " that you have once you get it all worked out you may have to press real hard to get it to stop as 7/8 gives more pressure which I learned the hard way.You would think 1 1/8 " would apply more pressure.Keep talking with Frank he will get you straight.I got my Wilwood master from him the second time I just wish I would have spoken to him first.Good luck oh I run a Wilwood proportioning valve on my rear brakes.
 

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Yeah, a 1 1/8th is completely wrong for manual brakes. Pro Street is correct, your legs probably are not strong enough to stop the car comfortably. I would try to return it to who sold it to you as you were advised poorly.
 

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just to throw in my 2 cents... I run 4 manual wilwoods, bought from frank a couple years ago.

Master size will effect pedal effort. I use a 1", and my pedal is VERY light and easy. A 1 1/8" will need a whole lot more leg.

anyone who says there is any valving in a drum drum distribution block don't know what he's talking about. The only thing in there is the pressure switch that lights the brake light. This is a VERY valuable safety feature, and it should always be retained.

The adjustment of the clevis rod is important. too long, the brakes will lock as you described, not right away, but after driving for a lil while.
Too loose and you got no pedal, brakes work but are way to close to the floor.

Mine suffered from "caliper knockback" in the rear, the natural movement of the c-clip axles would relax the pistons to the point where I had no brakes at all, pedal went to the floor the first pump! At Mark.L.W's suggestion, I put a Wilwood 2 psi residual pressure valve in the rear brakeline. Pedal is always perfect now.
This is also further proof there are no valves in that distribution black.

I don't use or need any proportioning valves of any kind. I use the dynalight 4 piston kits, speced for my year camaro, with 11.2" rotors on all four. Balance is perfect, with the fronts locking just before the rears in a pedal to the floor panic stop.
 
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