[Eric Kammerer]

Time to put the pillar post and header moldings on, so I can get the windshield in. I remember we have discussed the use of non-hardening sealer over the years, but I did a search and can't find what I need.

I'm going to use the electrician's putty, but I'd like to know exactly where it goes and how much.

When I disassembled the moldings, there was some of the gray factory goo on the back of the A-pillar moldings, but I couldn't really tell if it had been one bead up the flat front of the windshield frame, and exactly what it was supposed to seal. Does it just keep water from working in from the windshield side and running down the windshield frame? Or was it just strictly to keep the moldings in place and from jiggling/rattling around at speed?

I recall the header moldings being pretty full of goo, but if someone can describe how to make sure you have enough, that would be good.

 

[gene_sc]

I use 3M® strip cauking, you want to put enough on to keep water from wicking in under the moldings.

 

[kustomwerker]

i believe you`re looking for butyl tape...it`s sold in several different sizes, and round and square...i dont know what will best fit your application...you can get it at autobody supply houses...

 

[gene_sc]

Actually butyl tape is for setting glass, it will work but its not the same as
3M® Strip Caulking.

 

[Nomadkenn]

Go with the Strip Caulking!

 

[Eric Kammerer]

I've got Strip Calk, but the header moldings had a lot more of the gray/white non-setting sealer than I think I could do with Strip Calk. That's a lot of little strips to combine and then stretch out.

 

[rs69ss]

There's a product made by FUSOR that replaces expanding foam sealer on new cars when body shops do repairs. Maybe that would work good for them.