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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As per the answers on my last thread, Does anyone know where I can purchase an upgraded wiring harness for a 69 coup or is it better to build your own? I would like to get rid of the glass fuses and use heavier wire. I have a voltage drop problem and putting on a higher amp alternator makes me nervous. I don't need a BBQ'd 69. It has most of the original wiring except for the upgrades I installed, gauges, fans, ignition ect. I was hoping that some place makes an upgraded kit.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK, after posting I looked around and found several posts on this subject. I am going to use the American AutoWiring system. Question is, how difficult is it to install in car that is done, running and driving?
 

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Lot's of people here have used American Autowire and have had great success. I used M&H Electrical with mine. http://www.wiringharness.com and also had great success. My car was torn apart at the time of installation so it was very easy, but I think it is still moderately easy with the car assembled. Mine was as simple as unroll and plug in. I did the under dash, under hood and rear body harnesses. Quality was perfect!
 

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Bob -

I assume because you want to get rid of the glass fuses you're looking at the AAW Classic Update kit for the 69. It is very nice and complete, and really isn't any easier or harder than an OE replacement to put in an assembled car (it's all a bit of a pain).

Depending on where you want to run the wires and how fussy you are, it takes some time to put together. I don't have a total time on how long it took me, because I had to do it in stages as I reassembled the car.

The underdash harness is pretty simple, as most all the circuits are the correct length and terminated with a factory connector. The only ones I had to complete were the clutch safety and reverse lamp circuits (in your case they'll go to the neutral safety I assume). I laid it out side by side with the OE harness, confirmed which circuits ran where and in what groupings, and then taped things up to look OE. One of the nice things about the Update kit is that there are two disconnect plugs for the instrument panel, so you aren't juggling the instrument panel while trying to make all the OE connections. The dash harness was about 4 hours, including the taping.

The instrument panel harness, because it is not OE, is definitely some assembly required. Again, all the correct connectors are supplied for any factory style configuration you might want (I did mine with a factory tach and center fuel gauge), but you'll have cutting and crimping and soldering to do. I just wired mine up on the bench, but it probably took me 4 hours to do just the instrument panel.

The engine harness is pretty simple, but you'll have wires to cut to length and terminate, based on where you have various components located. The alternator feeds back through a fat wire to the starter/battery cable terminal, so that's different than OE. I ran mine back to the firewall, along the underside of the heater box, and out between the inner fender and fender, to meet up with the idiot light wire. The engine harness was around 3 hours.

The front light harness is somewhat more involved, because there's more wires to cut and terminate. I think I had about 4 hours in the front light harness.

The rear body harness is pretty simple, but you'll have to decide if you are wiring it AAW's way (individual disconnects at the lamp sockets) or GM's way (one multi-circuit disconnect to the left of the left taillight). I did it GM's way, and reused the plastic plug bodies off the OE harness (just pushed the old terminals out and pushed new in). Other than connecting the right turn signal to the third brake light circuit (oops) it went really well. It took about 2 hours to do the the rear circuit.

Now the disclaimer is that the above times are on a gutted car, although the motor is in. So you'll have more time in disassembly and reassembly.

Going with a strict OE replacement harness, plug and go, is a good solid day job. The Update is probably twice as long, but it will have more flexibility and circuit that it looks like you'll need. I did not use the separate circuits AAW provides for things like an electric fuel pump, but it's there if you need it. I ran the electric fan circuit out to the front of the car and covered it, in case I ever change fans. I run my electric choke off a feed line that could run an ECM.

Another important thing AAW provides is quality instructions, and solid tech support. The few things I wasn't clear on or just wanted to bounce off someone were a simple phone or email away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Eric,
Thanks allot. At this point, originality isn't an issue. The car is nice but is a long, long way from original. I was seriously thinking about doing away with allot of the original stuff, idiot lights ect. It is basically a street/strip car and I just wanted a better wiring system because of the old system that has been abused, cut, soldered, taped, wire nutted, melted ect. I have owned the car since 89, but it was in storage for 12 years after I restored it in 91. After putting in the 502 and friends, the wiring has becoming a problem. I was just hoping that someone has installed this system in a completed car to give me an idea. Regardless how difficult, I am still going to have to do it. I just hate having the car down. I appreciate your input and after I get done I'll let everyone how hard it was.
 
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