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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an L92 truck motor in a 68 camaro. The engine has a stand alone harness and works fine and charges.(since I modded the ECM)

I still do not have the stock ammeter/voltage (?) gauge working in front of the horse shoe shifter.

The white and blue wires are not connected under the hood.

Current alternator is from a 98 camaro. Its a 4 wire utilizing only the center two wires "B" and "C".

Voltage regulating is being done by the ECM.

Is it as simple as hook up Blue to B and White to C? or vice versa to get the gauge reading?

OR how would one "tap in" this stock gauge? Just find a hot and a ground?

Thank you!!!
 

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An ampmeter doesn't have a ground, it is used in-line with the 12vdc (B?) wire at the alternator. A volt meter, which is used in the late model cars, would be what you want to connect 12vdc to the B connector on the alternator and run a ground wire on the ground (-) terminal of the meter.
 

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Ya know, an ammeter can actually be useful. I still like mine but added a volt meter over 30 years ago.
Is your radiator support harness functional? (Wires from the horn relay to the stud on the opposite side.) The stock ammeter does not carry battery current. One 20ga wire connects near or on the relay and the other connects near the stud. I'm not sure the exact location. But the idea is to sense the amp flow and subsequent drop at the other end of the main power wire. It's an old principal put to good use. Full amperage isn't routed to the meter. If that's not clear I'm sure CRG has a schematic.
 

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The OE design ammeter is actually a millivoltmeter, and as Fred suggests, gets connected at the horn relay buss bar and the other lead gets connected at the junction block next to the battery. If meter reads backwards, swap the leads at the back of the ammeter.

As Roy suggests and Fred did the same, both added a voltmeter. Hooking a real voltmeter up is pretty simple, a dash ground is good and pick off point is your choice. You can use the IGN spade from fusebox, or ACC terminal, as either position will be off with the key in the OFF position. Dependent upon gauge design, minmal current will be drawn with a modern gauge, less than 80 milliamps, if hooked to battery or alt BATT stud or BAT spade of fusebox. An external digital ammeter, your Fluke meter or Beckman, maybe Actron, don't know if this brand will measure low enough, on your additional selected voltmeter will show you the amount of current drawn, even if it's across the battery posts to test, will show you how long the battery charge will last, as in eons.
 
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