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File this thread under the heading of "Simply FYI". Might possibly help with confusion for someone else.
From my Engine thread:
It does not contact or interfere with anything.
The car was converted (I don't think it came with a 4 speed) prior to me purchasing it from the previous owner's Widow. I'll admit though, there have been things about this car that have proven to be mis-matches. The clutch (frame side) bell crank bracket was one of them. The one pictured there is the correct one and is now on the car.
In another post you might have noticed the car has a 1962 T10-1C transmission.
Then there is the odd-ball stuff I have done to it myself.
This is the clutch fork in question.
IMG_2845[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
I later responded with this:
Turns out you are correct. Another expedition into this car full of mismatches.
Noted earlier, I had dents in the firewall. I went through straightening out the dents.
I had some dents down in the area of the clutch fork and I did not make the connection at the time that they were there because the clutch fork needed the room.
As I reassemble now the clutch fork does not have room to operate. The top edge of the lever quickly hits the firewall. I can see where this would create a "twisting" motion of the fork ... which would explain why my throw-out bearing retainer spring was broken when I removed the fork.
I have a fix underway to clearance the area behind the clutch fork. This fix also solves another problem.
That problem is the gas pedal does not hit the floor before the throttle arm lands on the firewall in the engine bay. if the gas pedal is depressed beyond this point to the floor it creates excessive (binding) stress on the linkage/shaft connection for the throttle arm.
The clearance on the engine bay side for the clutch fork creates a hard stop for the gas pedal inside. Two issues solved with one fabrication.
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Jump to today.
In a search I am finding this one is probably the correct one.
555-79729 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
It appears to me the one I have and have been using is a heavier duty more durable fork. By the time I figured out there really is a problem I had powder coated the fork, purchased a new retainer spring and replaced the broken one ... Not to mention it was now installed in the car. Taking all of this into account, there is no way I am spending additional $$$ on another fork (especially one that might be weaker) taking the car apart and swapping forks.
It was not a terribly difficult task to "clearance" the firewall to allow space for the clutch fork to swing freely and fully.
This was the first phase:
It's a flat piece of sheet metal rolled/bent at the top so it can follow the slope of this part of the lower firewall. It's formed and installed like an inverted shelf. It's the top side of the fork that has no room to swing rearward.
Still looking a bit rough.
IMG_3283 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
I had mentioned the gas pedal and linkage had some issues.
The throttle arm/lever in the engine bay would hit the firewall while the gas pedal still had more distance to move toward the floor.
This connection point at the pivot was in serious stress if a foot tried to push the pedal all the way to the floor.
DSC_2850 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
The modification to make room for the clutch created a stop/block inside for the gas pedal.
IMG_3282 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
With some soundproof wrap, carpet and the pedal floored ... the lever out in the bay can no longer hit the firewall.
DSC_3115 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
I still have plenty of throw to actuate the carburetor.
PIC of the final result behind the clutch.
IMG_3314[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
Some might refer to this as just another "Hack Job".
What I can say is it solves two issues and it cost me "Zero $$$"
From my Engine thread:
All I can say for certain is that that fork has been on the car for the 25 years that I have owned the car and near as I can tell it has functioned flawlessly.
It does not contact or interfere with anything.
The car was converted (I don't think it came with a 4 speed) prior to me purchasing it from the previous owner's Widow. I'll admit though, there have been things about this car that have proven to be mis-matches. The clutch (frame side) bell crank bracket was one of them. The one pictured there is the correct one and is now on the car.
In another post you might have noticed the car has a 1962 T10-1C transmission.
Then there is the odd-ball stuff I have done to it myself.
This is the clutch fork in question.
IMG_2845[1] by Larry Madsen, on FlickrI later responded with this:
Well, well ...
Turns out you are correct. Another expedition into this car full of mismatches.
Noted earlier, I had dents in the firewall. I went through straightening out the dents.
I had some dents down in the area of the clutch fork and I did not make the connection at the time that they were there because the clutch fork needed the room.
As I reassemble now the clutch fork does not have room to operate. The top edge of the lever quickly hits the firewall. I can see where this would create a "twisting" motion of the fork ... which would explain why my throw-out bearing retainer spring was broken when I removed the fork.
I have a fix underway to clearance the area behind the clutch fork. This fix also solves another problem.
That problem is the gas pedal does not hit the floor before the throttle arm lands on the firewall in the engine bay. if the gas pedal is depressed beyond this point to the floor it creates excessive (binding) stress on the linkage/shaft connection for the throttle arm.
The clearance on the engine bay side for the clutch fork creates a hard stop for the gas pedal inside. Two issues solved with one fabrication.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jump to today.
In a search I am finding this one is probably the correct one.
555-79729 by Larry Madsen, on FlickrIt appears to me the one I have and have been using is a heavier duty more durable fork. By the time I figured out there really is a problem I had powder coated the fork, purchased a new retainer spring and replaced the broken one ... Not to mention it was now installed in the car. Taking all of this into account, there is no way I am spending additional $$$ on another fork (especially one that might be weaker) taking the car apart and swapping forks.
It was not a terribly difficult task to "clearance" the firewall to allow space for the clutch fork to swing freely and fully.
This was the first phase:
It's a flat piece of sheet metal rolled/bent at the top so it can follow the slope of this part of the lower firewall. It's formed and installed like an inverted shelf. It's the top side of the fork that has no room to swing rearward.
Still looking a bit rough.
IMG_3283 by Larry Madsen, on FlickrI had mentioned the gas pedal and linkage had some issues.
The throttle arm/lever in the engine bay would hit the firewall while the gas pedal still had more distance to move toward the floor.
This connection point at the pivot was in serious stress if a foot tried to push the pedal all the way to the floor.
DSC_2850 by Larry Madsen, on FlickrThe modification to make room for the clutch created a stop/block inside for the gas pedal.
IMG_3282 by Larry Madsen, on FlickrWith some soundproof wrap, carpet and the pedal floored ... the lever out in the bay can no longer hit the firewall.
DSC_3115 by Larry Madsen, on FlickrI still have plenty of throw to actuate the carburetor.
PIC of the final result behind the clutch.
IMG_3314[1] by Larry Madsen, on FlickrSome might refer to this as just another "Hack Job".
What I can say is it solves two issues and it cost me "Zero $$$"
