[Guest]

I know I allready asked this I'm going to build a Yenko clone for me, I plan on making it as close as possible true late 60's 427, M 22, 140 speedo , graphics, cowl hood and induction, etc but what X code should I use? I have tried to get a hold of some of these ones for sale but ouch just to much $40,000+ hell why not save a little more and go for the real deal? I just want a driver thats fun as hell and will eat rice any time I want it to.

 

[Unreal]

i'm just about through buidling a Yenko clone, myself.
1. Most were X44, but there were a few X11 and X66.
2. None had M22--all were M21 or TH400 (column shift)
3. Many had 9737 Sports car conversion, which included 15X7 Rallys, 13/16" sway bar, and 140 Speedo
3. Early cars had no factory tach, so S-W tach was mounted on column. Late cars had factory tach, and center fuel gage. None were console cars.
4. I think all were 4.10 rears (some were changed to 4.56)

I'm trying to get mine close to accurate, with the exception of the A/C, and 3.73 gears. Feel free to reply here, or my email, if you have other questions.
Gary

 

[Guest]

Thanks Unreal, I did try a reply to your e mail but for some odd reason I cant seem to pull up my email from the server. Isnt technoligy wonderfull??? I do want to pick your brain on your Yenko though, as to how all you set it up, drive train etc,
Thanks alot!!!,
Mike

 

[NastyZ]

}I just want a driver thats fun as hell and will eat rice any time I want it to.

Then why worry about the X codes? Get yourself a 67 - 69 body, a 427, M22, 12 bolt, some paint & a $3 decal. You can explain the decal is simply a decoration if anyone asks.

Unless you're trying to fake something (obviously not), then I wouldn't get a hernia over the trim tag. Especially if you're going to modify the heck out of it.

Also, you can eat rice a lot more economically than this method, but you will sure have a lot more fun doing it this way. I recommend doing the drivetrain mods but staying away from putting a restoration decal on it.

 

[kz1000ltd]

NastyZ has it exactly right! Don't clone an original SS car! Find an X-44 base coupe and go to town! My good friend SSDanny69 is thinking about making a Yenko clone out of a very nice original 69 X-66 car, I told him if he did, I would post about it here and flame him real bad. He's reconsidering.........

------------------
John D. Smith
69 SS/396 CLONE!
The Texas Tornado lives!
http://www.geocities.com/kz1000ltd/

North Texas Camaro Club

Hobbystage Free Picture Posting!!! http://hobbystage.net/camaro/69ss396/

 

[ssdanny69]

Busted!

 

[Guest]

You guys are right thats what I will do, I still want a 427 though its just something about them. And those Yeko stripes with the cowl hood and 427 emblems just say "leave me alone" or "I eat rice for every meal"
Mike

 

[Unreal]

If you just want it to look like a Yenko, from the outside, that's about $ 300 worth of badges and stripes. You could use any 396,402,or 427,or even a 454. However, the challenge, expense, and for me, the fun is in finding many of the "correct" stuff for the Yenko. Mine started life as an X11, small block, auto, with A/C. I'm going back as an X11 427 (LE out of a 69 Impala) M21, 12 bolt 3.73 posi, chambered exhaust, etc. etc. But I'm keeping the A/C. I searched out "correct" parts, like heads, carb, water pump, etc. but I am making no attempt to fake out anyone. I changed no numbers. I'm just building a nice, drivable, tribute car.
So, it's all in what you want.

I agree that using an X44 is the best choice. Remember, most were X44, anyway. But I'm betting X11 will be easier to find, as that was the catch-all number.

 

[Guest]

I do have one deviatilon I picked up a Tripower setup from a 68 Corvette for a song, and thought that would be too cool sitting up on top, but will it clear a cowl hood or should I sell it and go with the std. Holly, and cowl induction?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Guest]

So what do you guys think of runnung a Corvette tripower? Will it fis under the cowl hood or should I just stick with the Holley?