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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the trick to getting the Z bar off? I disconnected it from the bracket on the subframe (and removed the bracket) and pilled the pin from the rod that connects to the pedal and there's nowhere for the Z bar to slide off or whatever its supposed to do since the inner fender is in the way and it doesn't look like I can remove the bolts from the bracket on the engine unless the engine is out. Am I supposed to take the inner fender off?
 

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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Also here are the pictures. Sorry for the poor quality. Does this bracket look factory to you? Some of it looked modified like it was ran roughly through a grinder. This engine was replaced with a different one from a '62 Chevy so I don't know if it was modified or what.

Tire Wheel Bicycle Bicycle tire Automotive tire

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Metal Auto part
 

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I usually pull the inner fender by hand and use a 1/2" ratchet wrench to take the plate off of the frame. It doesn't take much force to move the inner fender.👍
 
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Something looks odd. There should just be a ball stud screwed into a hole in the block. Looks like someone made some sort of mounting bracket that is bolted to your engine. I agree with Keith that it usually just slides out.
 

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68 SS/RS, 460 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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On mine the Z bar is mounted in a slotted hole in frame bracket, take off or loosen nut and it should lift out of bracket.
 

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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I usually pull the inner fender by hand and use a 1/2" ratchet wrench to take the plate off of the frame. It doesn't take much force to move the inner fender.👍
Thank you I'll try that. If it does not come out easily I'll just have to take a sawzall to the bracket.

Something looks odd. There should just be a ball stud screwed into a hole in the block. Looks like someone made some sort of mounting bracket that is bolted to your engine. I agree with Keith that it usually just slides out.
After I posted this last night I looked for pictures online and only found the ball stud you were referring to. I assume the bracket was put in because of compatibility issues with the replacement engine, which was a 327 from a '62 Chevy with a powerglide.
 

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Thank you I'll try that. If it does not come out easily I'll just have to take a sawzall to the bracket.



After I posted this last night I looked for pictures online and only found the ball stud you were referring to. I assume the bracket was put in because of compatibility issues with the replacement engine, which was a 327 from a '62 Chevy with a powerglide.
I thought all SBC engines were pretty much the same. I think my Dad's 61 vette has a similar setup. I wonder if the hole in the block is stripped or if the stud broke and someone made the plate as a fix.
 
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I thought all SBC engines were pretty much the same. I think my Dad's 61 vette has a similar setup. I wonder if the hole in the block is stripped or if the stud broke and someone made the plate as a fix.
I once had a 327 that did not have the tap for the ball stud. Never used it but was surprised the tap was not there.
 
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This is a great place for a block wonk to chip in. When did the pivot ball mounting hole show up? The older cars with front motor mounts had the engines sitting further forward relative to the clutch linkage pivot centerline. When did side motor mounts show up? Were they always there? Were blocks forward in side motor mount applications too? Some bellhousings have a pivot mount in them. Blowshields for early applications have a bracket mount on the side of the shield to adapt the pivot ball (I used one of these to adapt a Z-bar to my LS). I have no idea what the timing was on all this. It would be interesting to know the evolution of the block.
Scoggins Dickey has an adapter that bolts on via the bellhousing bolts to get to this position. I think the hole is missing in some bbc's too and thats primarily what the SD adapter is for. I have one around here somewhere if you want to see a pic of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The ball stud threads into the block above the oil filter. This is a pic of the stud on my 327.
View attachment 290451
That is there but I tried to thread the ball stud into it and it would not go in, I think the threads are different sized but it may have just been road grime. Either way I ended up sawing the bracket off, which was homemade anyway, and this won't be an issue in the future since I'll be using the original engine and it should be the correct size and configuration. Below are pictures in case anyone is interested. Maybe not all that interesting to most but since it was something my uncle did to correct a problem he could not otherwise fix at home, it's something neat I could discover during this project.
 

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I’m picturing someone who just killed themselves getting the engine and trans into the car, hooked a bunch of stuff up, got to the z-bar and only then discovered the ball wouldn’t thread into the block.

After a bunch of cursing, a homemade bracket was born…

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It looks like it probably worked fine for him. I will have to admit that I probably have done worse hacks...
It didn’t look amazing but was pretty solid. I drove the car around for a few miles and the pedal felt solid, I would have never suspected it was modified. My uncle had installed that motor “temporarily” to drive it around while getting the original engine worked on, he drove it that way for a few years apparently just fine.

I’m picturing someone who just killed themselves getting the engine and trans into the car, hooked a bunch of stuff up, got to the z-bar and only then discovered the ball wouldn’t thread into the block.

After a bunch of cursing, a homemade bracket was born…

:)
I’m assuming that was the case. Probably didn’t want to buy another engine.
 
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