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Project Dmentd - born in 68

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53K views 252 replies 36 participants last post by  pittpens24  
#1 ·
I figured it was about time to post up my work in progress. This was my first car that I had bought when I was 15. Saw the tail end in a local farmer's barn flying by on my quad one day when the barn door was open........did a 180 and the rest is history :D
Not sure if it is an original SS or not but had the deluxe door panels, houndstooth interior, tic tock tack, factory 4 speed console with gauges, factory air and thick moldings at the quarter window and door. Came with a cowl induction hood so who knows. Also had a 350, saginaw 4 speed and 12 bolt rear. Only thing that could be matched as original was the rear. Being a kid, I ended up blowing the motor , trans and rear(not necessarily in that order lol). Threw in a 450HP built 350, Muncie M-22 and backed it up with a Moroso posi unit and 4:10 Richmond gears. Ran a 12.4 in the 1/4 mile so I was always happy about that. Long story short - ran it a few years and crashed it one night after getting roofied at a bar(that's the long story). Anyway, been sitting in my parents back yard for 8 years before I was able to get it to my house where she sat scarred for another 9 long years. Finally after 17 years, Here I am with ya'all in the midst of undertaking the long hard road of restoration from ground up.
I plan on posting alot of pics to keep you guys happy :thumbsup: The plan for the car at this point is to be a Pro-touring RS/SS conversion - Yeah I know - yet another one lol.
So far I have replaced:
Floor pan with a one piece Goodmark
Trunk pan with a one piece Goodmark
Bought both new doors - OER and rebuilt my original hinges
Put on both Quarters and outer wheelhouses- OER
Mini tubbed inner wheel houses
Installed a Martz 4-link crossmember and welded it in
Had to cut out the floor pan for the 4-link as I went with a fully adjustable version.
Also decided to cut out my rear frame rails and move them inboard to allow for wider tires.
Had to cut into the trunk to allow for the coil overs to mount to
Bolted on a Martz front sub-frame
Welded in the frame connectors - had to cut through the floor again
Installed a 4 point roll cage at this point - maybe will be 6 point - haven't decided.
Have a Moser 9" Detriot Locker Posi with 4:11 Ratio
Have my Tremec T-56 Magnum
Ordered my 572 Chevy BB

So that's about it - we are caught up to current..........
 

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#13 ·
Been a little while since I updated so here goes. Finally had a few nice days last weekend and was perfect for painting. Did 2 coats epoxy primer on the entire interior of the car as well as underneath then topcoated the interior floor and trunk and entire undercarriage with Raptor Liner. I would highly recommend Raptor Liner to anyone who is thinking of doing the same. The stuff is absolutely amazing and sooo easy to use. After that cured I decided to start putting the front tubular arms and Wilwood brake kit on the front end. Moved to the rear and got in my 9" and 4-link setup and Wilwood set up done :) I am really happy how it is all coming alone so far. Next up is the power rack and pinion steering assy and then looking to start on the front end.
 

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#17 ·
(welding) It is very easy. You will need good equipment tho - that is 1/2 the battle - the other 1/2 is making sure your metal is ground clean at the area you will be welding as well as where you are hooking the ground wire. Try welding scrap pieces together in different scenerios and you will pick it up quick!
 
#19 ·
Finally had a little more time to get some work done. Got my new power rack bolted in and hooked up. Dug out my original GM front fenders I had since I was a kid - bought back in '92 along with a GM header panel. Went with AMD inner wheel housings and lower valance panel. Needed a few minor adjustments on the lower valance to get it to fit properly but nothing major. Re used my original cowl panel - still in great shape and went with an AMD 2" cowl hood. I was surprised how nicely the front end went together. Hood gaps are pretty good on the sides but need a little work at the header panel - can't complain. Original fenders to OER doors are way off. Much more so on the drivers side. Motor should be here soon - maybe by the end of the month:D. Just spent 1/2 the day today going through and ordering everything I needed to start running my fuel and brake lines - much harder then I thought. Needed some help and Summit Racing came thru for me - those guys are great! :beers:
 

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#20 ·
Keep at it Greg, the front clip looks to fit like a glove. Wish they still had GM fenders plentiful for sale and not a fortune available now a days. On your fuel stuff check out anplumbing.com they have everything and more. Plus you have a direct photo of the fitting/lines etc...your buying.
Again looking good sir!
 
#22 ·
Thanks - Can't even begin to tell you how happy I am to see her back together after 17+ years. Thanks for the tip - I wished I would have seen it sooner. I actually sat for hours between Jegs and Summit Racing. I finally threw in the towel and called Summit - they spent alot of time on the phone with me and so far everything is working according to the layout in my head for now.

Which 572 are you getting? Nice build, should be a blast to drive.
Was debating about a crate motor originally but then was recommended to CMEngines(Carolina Machine) by a friend who built a pulling truck. He swears by them and even threw a 383 stroker in his fan boat! With all this snow we are getting, I'd be outside tooling around :cool:
Anyway I was able to pick what I wanted starting with a Dart "M" block to the carb and everything in between. Those guys are great and gave me a few recommendations to tweak my build and after researching myself, couldn't be happier. Even with all the top quality parts it came in about $3500 less than the GM crate motor and has a 1 year warranty(from what I read don't think GM offers one on their 572)
 
#23 ·
So since the snow is piling up outside, I am off to the garage to play with my stainless steel brake lines. I made a jig to straighten the 20" rolls that I bought - works great and for $34 - the price was right lol. After reading many reviews, I bought Eastwood's Pro Brake flaring tool and bought the optional 37* attachment for the an fittings for fear of the dreaded 45* splitting as in other posts I have read. Well Let me say that I got my feet wet on the lines last weekend and that flaring tool is amazing. The double 37* comes out perfect everytime - now whether it leaks or not will not be known for quite some time but I have been tightening every fitting 3 times to seat the flare as a precaution. I also tried the double 45* just to see - flawless! I heard all kinds of horror stories on stainless steel and being that I have never played with any brake lines, I am really pleased so far how easy things are going with the tools I bought. That being said I hope I didn't just jinx myself.........to be continued
 
#24 ·
Well between yesterday and today in between battling the snow, I managed to get the brake lines in. Just have to get a few more brake line clamps. I am very happy with the final result. Only thing is I really didn't have enough room to coil it up to the proportioning valve. I am hoping since I have solid body mounts that it will not be an issue in the future.
 

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#27 ·
Just to be clear - I have never bent or flared a brake line in my life. Was a bit scared but always up for a challenge. Was even a bit more scared when hearing horror stories about bending and flaring stainless steel lines. Doing all the research I could before starting was a big help. Don't get me wrong, I spent quite a bit of $ for the tools that had good reviews for stainless but in the end, was worth every penny to make the job as easy as it was. This was what I purchased and from where. For the stainless steel brake line, I went with 3/16" as Wilwood recommended for their brakes and bought it from Summit Racing. I bought their brand in 20' rolls - needed 2. Not that it matters but I used all Earls AN fittings. The Pro Flaring Tool came from Eastwood. It comes with 45* dies. Since I was using AN fittings on all but where they go into the wilwood proportioning valve, I had to buy the 37* attachment as well. I did also purchase a tube straightener but it was on back order so I made one(that worked awesome - thread posted below) and saved myself $56. I also bought their forming pliers and 180* tube bender as a kit. I will say this about the forming pliers - they are great for tight bends such as right at the fitting as I had a few of those, but you need a strong a** grip and some decent strength to finesse a bend by yourself and it is not perfect like it is with the 180* tube bender. It still looks great just not as precise. The only place I had a bit of trouble on the whole car was bending around the back frame rail to get to the flex line for the rear. To everyone else who saw it they thought it looked awesome. I have a background in heavy metal fabrication(does nothing for the sheet metal work I am about to tackle lol) and now design run a high end custom cabinet/furniture shop where precision is of utmost importance so to me it could be better. In the end, that line from the rear to the front would suck to do it again so it is worthy enough for me :D. So I am rambling - back to the point. After cutting the tube with a tube cutter(regular $8 one from Lowes), I used a deburring tool in my drill as in the pics in my last post to deburr the crushed inside of the tube. I then took a small metal file and kissed the outside edge just as a precaution of a sharp lip. Then followed the directions for the flaring tool. Works flawlessly on both double 45* and 37*. Not one split or came out crooked. I will admit that I forgot to put the sleeve and nut on a couple times before flaring :noway: Good luck and links below :beers:

http://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-and-forming-pliers-kit.html
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
http://www.eastwood.com/37-deg-flare-die-set-for-25304.html
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=374681
 
#31 ·
Thanks Brian - good point. I was also thinking yesterday that basically I would be making it look line a '67 - We all know '68's are superior versions of the '67 models l:) That being said - i'll leave them where they are and just mod them in some way to be custom.
 
#34 ·
Following this build, awesome work! Making notes for my 67. Hope mine comes out half as nice as yours!![emoji106]

Thanks for the compliment - greatly appreciated! Just take your time and you'll be fine.
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Very nice build on this 68. Funny as I had bought an old Super Stock car that would have been very easy to PT but decided to go the other way and just finished removing the tubs, cage and front clip in order to go back to stock with it, which was the complete reverse of where you just went. Watching to see what the drive line will be like. Great looking work.

Earl
That is too funny. If this wasn't my first car, maybe we could have traded lol. Thanks and good luck with your restoration.