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Replacing wheel studs

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J

JD4020

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Wasn't sure where to put this, but it's more an axle type question.

I need to replace my wheel studs for my new Weld wheels. Situation is that I just buttoned up my rear and put it back in the car. Can I drive out the studs with the axles still in? Or should I take the axles out, and press the studs out and back in?

Looks like some folks have had issues getting studs to seat properly and have had to ream out the holes some. I hope that's not the case for me, but I am hoping to get some folks chime in here with their experiences.

Thanks,

Jon
 
#3 ·
You can do it while the rear end is in the car even. Remove the drum if drum brakes, etc... Get a heavy hammer and knock those puppies back thru the plate. It's easier than you think. Slide your new stud thru the hole and using a impact wrench and a xtra lug nut (do not use lug nut you plan to use later) and wrench that nut down until it seats, then wrench it off and move to the next stud.

Thats the same thing a wheel/brake shop would do if they had to replace a stud.
 
#4 ·
I would use oil on the studs threads when seating them in, allot of heat can be generated on the stud when impacting it in, and the oil can help to protect the threads. Also use a washer so the "nut" is not against the axle face
my 2 cents
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ok guys, that's what I'll do. I've done them on other vehichles, but wanted reassurance before pounding around on my 12-bolt.

I just got off the phone with Weld to see what they recommended for stud length, and they said what I have is fine...it really doesn't look right to me, but they said that the lug shank will support the wheel. as long as I have about 3/4" engagment, I will be fine. I need to get me some lug nuts and see how it looks, then I will decide whether to switch studs or not.

Thanks.
 
#6 ·
Use McGard Tough Nuts as they are guaranteed not to rust/chip/break/peel for the life you own the lugnut and have receipt in hand.

And use two washers for pulling in the studs with an OE lug nut turned around, flat face on the washers, not the taper, and plenty of lube, as said. Lots of heat.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I drove one of the studs out tonight to get some measurements. Three wacks with the 3 lb bfh, and she came out.

I think when I put them in, I am going to try freezing them to see if they go in any easier. That's worked on a few bearing and gear parts that I've used on some bigger equipment. I'll just give it a shot.

Thanks,

Jon
 
#10 ·
Jon,
ARe you just replacing the stock studs with new ones or are you getting long studs from Moroso etc ? If you are getting the long ones, forget about doing it on the car, at least not if you want to do it right. Measure the splined part of the stud and you will see what I mean. Freezing it will not shrink them but maybe .001" , thats a thousanth. No more. I have reamed many axles for guys in the shop and it always takes quite a bit to get them to fit correctly. If you force them, you will mess something up. Do you want a wheel falling off later :(

I have yet to figure out why they dont make the long studs with the same knurl size as the stock ones :(
 
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