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Another floor pan question

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Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Those clips look interesting. I was just planning to use welding magnets to hold the sides close until I tacked them together. Here is a pic of my vert's toeboard. It looks to me like it already has a lip like you had to add.
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
Well rats. I went out in the garage today and a big box was there. I got my floor pan and extension but no inner rocker or torque box. D&R says 2 weeks to a month. Called Ricks and they sell the inner rocker but they are out of stock on the left side. They do have the torque box but don't I need to install the rocker first? Plus the rocker is shipped UPS oversize from Ricks but it's standard shipping from D&R. I guess I get to practice my welding.
Anybody know of another source of these items? I searched several of the vendors usually mentioned here but I didn't find the inner rocker by itself or the torque box.

Here are pics of what I got. I thought I read somewhere else that the repop floor pans turned up on the rocker edge? These turn down like the original?
 
#27 ·
The downturned weld flange on the floor to the rocker is shorter than the original. I just walked into the garage, and the length of that weld flange on an original floor is about 1 1/2 inches. As I recall, the length of that flange on the repro floor pan was about 1/2 inch. Doesn't leave much room to plug weld the floor to the rocker inner. I ended up cutting the flange off of the repro panel and lap welding it to the flange from the original floor (my rocker inners were in good shape, so I was able to do this). This also allowed me to make sure that the height of the repro floor at the rocker was the same as original.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I measured my new floor and that lip varies between 1 and 1 1/4 inch. Also I was thinking about how the torque box and floor pan fit together. I guess the torque box has to be spot welded to the frame rail but left unconnected to the rocker then the new under seat floor pan sets on the torque box and slips between the torque box and the rocker. I will have to drill the spot weld holes out of the torque box lip first then when I have the floor pan in between them I will mark the holes on the floor pan, remove it and drill them out. Then when I re-insert it I will spot weld thru the torque box and floor pan onto the new rocker. Does that sound right? I don't see any other way to do that.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Let me ask about weld-thru primer vs epoxy primer. I will use weld-thru on the inside of the upper and lower lip of the new inner rock and on the outside of it where the braces and floor pan get spot welded to it. But on the inside, on the other side of it where spot welds go on the outside, is it OK to use POR-15 or Chassis saver there or does that need to be weld-thru as well. I'm not sure if spot weld penetration should go all the way through or not.
 
#30 ·
Weld through primer should be used in areas to be welded that cannot be accessed after assembly. If the new metal is EDP coated it does not need any primer before welding unless the EDP is removed. Weld through primer that is exposed after welding is complete should be removed (laquer thinner on a rag) prior to surface preparation for paint.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
But do I need weld-thru on the inside of the new inner rocker where I'll be spot welding the braces to the outside of the inner rocker? Or shoud I use Chassis Saver there. The new inner rocker has no paint BTW.
I guess what I'm saying is do you need weld-thru primer on both sides of a part that is getting welded onto on only one side?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Carburetor said:
The downturned weld flange on the floor to the rocker is shorter than the original. I just walked into the garage, and the length of that weld flange on an original floor is about 1 1/2 inches. As I recall, the length of that flange on the repro floor pan was about 1/2 inch. Doesn't leave much room to plug weld the floor to the rocker inner. I ended up cutting the flange off of the repro panel and lap welding it to the flange from the original floor (my rocker inners were in good shape, so I was able to do this). This also allowed me to make sure that the height of the repro floor at the rocker was the same as original.
Click to expand...
I put the new floor pan in with the inner rocker just clamped up and you're right it is considerably short. Since I left my under braces attached at the tunnel if I weld them back flush with the bottom of the inner rocker the floor should be at the right height. I think I'll cut an inch off the length of the new floor on the tunnel side and butt weld it to that lip at least where those braces attach.
 
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