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Pro-Street69Camaro468

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My motor is a mild HP 468 and the tallest air cleaner I can get is 2" K&N said its about 500 cfm they estimated like 800 cfm and sugested and open top eliment and I just am not fond of the look.
It seems to run fine it might have a small stumble when you mash the pedal but hardly noticable.

How much power do you think I will gain with the open top that is about a 100 cfm.....Thanks for your imput
 
I have a similar problem on my 14"x3" air cleaner. When I rev up my motor, it sucks down the entire air cleaner assembly so hard that it starts to intervere with the carb's accelator bracket. Such that the throttle won't snap back. Right now the motor is on an engine stand and I have to wait until the motor goes in to figure out what kind of room I have to go with a taller filter.
 
Flow is a big part. The engine can only flow as much as the most restrictive element although its hard to say what the power difference would be. You could always grab the open top and use it when you are on the street and to show off put the other top on.

I have the little edelbrock triangle element because i like the fact that air can flow in in all directions.
 
K & N makes a 4" tall 14" filter. I use mine with the X top. Slides barely into the opening for the cowl.
I have a K&N filter top also, but I removed it because mine won't go into the cowl hole. I also run an Air Gap manifold, so that may have something to do with also.
 
My motor is a mild HP 468 and the tallest air cleaner I can get is 2" K&N said its about 500 cfm they estimated like 800 cfm and sugested and open top eliment and I just am not fond of the look.
It seems to run fine it might have a small stumble when you mash the pedal but hardly noticable.

How much power do you think I will gain with the open top that is about a 100 cfm.....Thanks for your imput
David, there is a formula to figure out just how much filter serface area you need and there is also a formula to calculate your current filter serface area.

Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.
Image
A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power
If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length. If you are sizing a round filter, use the following formula to determine the height of the filter.
Image
A = effective filtering area
H = height
D = outside diameter of the filter
3.14 = pi
0.75 = the rubber end caps
 
So if you take your 468 you will need a filter that is 14 x 3.6. Take 468 and multiply that by your peak power RPM(I chose 5500rpm). That gives you 2,574,000. Take that number and divide it by 20839. That gives you an Effective Filtering Area of 123.5. Then take the filter diameter you want to use(say 14") and multiply that by 3.14. That gives you 43.96. Take the Effective Filtering Area number you got before and divide it by 43.96, then add .75 for the rubber seal around the outer edge. That gives you the filter height you will need. Your filter needs to be a 14" round X 3.6" high.
 
I had to run a 14 X 2.75" or so (next shorter K&N filter from 3") due to hood clearance on a car I had years ago. This was a fairly strong 468 big block. The car seemed to run fine, but didn't seem to pull up top like it should.

I took the hood off which didn't seem to make much of a difference. Then I installed a 14 X 4" filter with the hood off and the car came alive. Picked up .7and 6 mph at the track with no other changes.

Filter size is critical especially on a higher hp build.

Jody
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Street car not going to the track just a little show and go.It seems to run fine enough for me I may get an open eliment top if I drive a long way.Thanks for all the input I guees I'm going to have to get a 4" cowl hood or maybe not.......
 
If you calculate your filter for "street" use, then you will never know what your car is capable of if you ever decide to do a strip day. If you have the correct filter installed, the car will perform better AT ALL RPM, not just max.
 
if you are limited by hood clearance- which means that the element is right up against the bottom of the hood- then one of those lids with the built in elements would be a huge waste of money.
get a drop base air cleaner for it-i know that on my cousin's 66 Chevelle with a 402 big block and a Performer RPM intake with a Holley carb with no spacer, a 3" element fit with a drop base air cleaner, and i test fit the 4" element that i was running on my Nova, and the hood just barely rubbed when the hood was closed.

i did some air cleaner testing with my Nova at a 1/8 mile track on a friday night grudge race.
my car had about 400hp, and i tried 5 different fileter/housing combos- new Wix 14X3 open. new Wix 14X4 open. slightly used Fram filter in a stock late 70's housing with an extra duct riveted to it with lid sealed, same modified stock housing with lid flipped, and that housing with a pair of dryer ducts zip tied to the bottom of the core support.
all runs were within 1/2 hour i nthe evening with absolutely no tuning done between runs, and the times were all within 1/100 second and a couple of mph- with the fastest being the ram air setup. granted, the car was fairly inconsistent thru the 60 foot timers due to traction problems, but i found out that on that particular car, the air cleaner didn't really amount to much difference.
 
^ if your car is a 400hp 350 then using that formula, your original filter (the 2") would be about the correct size...so that's probably why you didn't find much improvements. I'm thinking it would be something to keep an eye on if you have a BB...I know my 2.5" filter with a drop base is restricting my motor...unfortunaly, a 4" tall element won't clear my stock cowl hood...I'd have to go with a 3" max, and even then my lid would be a few hair away from the hood (and with the engine moving that might be an issue)...sigh such is life with a single plane Team G and a BBC...4" cowl here I come! lol
 
^ if your car is a 400hp 350 then using that formula, your original filter (the 2") would be about the correct size...so that's probably why you didn't find much improvements. I'm thinking it would be something to keep an eye on if you have a BB...I know my 2.5" filter with a drop base is restricting my motor...unfortunaly, a 4" tall element won't clear my stock cowl hood...I'd have to go with a 3" max, and even then my lid would be a few hair away from the hood (and with the engine moving that might be an issue)...sigh such is life with a single plane Team G and a BBC...4" cowl here I come! lol
His engine is a 468BBC.
 
That air cleaner in your pic looks about 1 3/4"-2". Try the size I calculated using that formula and see how much of a difference you feel. You should feel it both in the lower and upper RPM range. Throttle response is going to suffer if you under filter it, not just on top end.
 
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