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2000 Camaro SS not starting

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shrtdog

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Any advice? Battery seems to be good, radio, alarm, remote work. Try to turn the key over, no click, or anything. I've got a manual transmission, clutch engaged all of the way to the floor, etc. Battery tested good and starter good too. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
its your neutral safety switch

it should be above your clutch pedal, once you find it, put your car in neutral, press the switch in and see if it starts

if it does, then you just need to adjust it, if it doesnt, you need to buy a new one.. they can be had for like $10 at napa or a parts store
 
#5 ·
Everett#2390 said:
Security system not reading the key chip/code?
Might read the owner's Manual to see what it suggests to do incase this happens.
Click to expand...
this could also be the case,if it is, your security light will FLASH on and off repeatedly when you try to start the car

edit* if this happens, try cleaning the resistor on your key with some rubbing alcohol
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
No security light issues. Also, the car started when I tried it again. I didn't even touch the neutral safety switch. Seems to be random. One time you go out and it starts just fine. Then you go out 1-2 hrs later and nothing! It's very frustrating. I called the dealership and he said "bring it down, we'll just have to leave it here until we can replicate the problem. We'll try starting it every now and then until it won't start." I guess you can't hook it up to a computer to track this sort of issue down?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I also read on MSN autos that it could be an ignition lock cylinder that has gone bad as these seem to have been an issue for late model F bodies. How would I know if it's a bad ignition lock cylinder?
 
#8 ·
shrtdog said:
No security light issues. Also, the car started when I tried it again. I didn't even touch the neutral safety switch. Seems to be random. One time you go out and it starts just fine. Then you go out 1-2 hrs later and nothing! It's very frustrating. I called the dealership and he said "bring it down, we'll just have to leave it here until we can replicate the problem. We'll try starting it every now and then until it won't start." I guess you can't hook it up to a computer to track this sort of issue down?
Click to expand...
that sounds like your switch is going bad

shrtdog said:
I also read on MSN autos that it could be an ignition lock cylinder that has gone bad as these seem to have been an issue for late model F bodies. How would I know if it's a bad ignition lock cylinder?
Click to expand...
what breaks is the very thin wires that read the resistor on your key, if your security light does not flash, thats not the problem
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Do you think the fact that it's random eliminates the neutral safety switch as the potential problem?

The more I research it sounds like it could be a problem with the ignition lock cylinder but wouldn't that also trigger the security light to come on? My security light doesn't stay on. Is the VATS system related to the ignition lock cylinder going out? Per victimizations post above, sounds like it's not an ignition lock cylinder or VATS issue. Any other suggestions?? I don't want to get stuck somewhere and I don't know what to fix.
 
#14 ·
If the starter isn't spinning, it's not a VATS problem--VATS kills fuel, not the starter.

You need to take a look at the wiring diagram for the starter circuit, and rig up a test light (or voltmeter) with a really long cord to carry with you so you can troubleshoot the problem the next time it happens. It could be the ignition switch, the clutch switch, the starter relay, the starter solenoid, the starter, or a battery cable.

The first test I'd do next time it happens is to clip onto the terminal of the purple wire at the starter and see if you are seeing 12V there when you turn the key to start. If you are seeing 12V there, then you have a starter/solenoid/batterycable problem. If you don't see 12V, then the next thing I'd check is to pull out the starter relay and check whether you see 12V on the coil hot terminal (the one that runs to the ignition switch, see wiring digram to figure out which that is). If you do see 12V there, then the problem is the relay or the wire going between the relay and the solenoid. Etc...
 
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#15 ·
You may want to verify the switch which is located at the end of the steering column.

I used to own a 95 Camaro and had to replace the switch (some inside contacts were burned), the car just went dead on me and would not start again while things like the volt meter gauge would still work.

Good Luck, Daniel.
 
#16 ·
Possibly a starter solenoid. I had one do that exact thing as your describing once and that was what it turned out to be. Late model cars can be hard to diagnose though. It`s best to scan the computer for any codes. Too many sensors on late models to just start throwing parts at them
 
#17 ·
makoshark said:
Too many sensors on late models to just start throwing parts at them
Click to expand...
The starter circuit on a 2002 Z28 isn't any more complicated than a '69... well, the '02 does have a relay, but other than that, the starter circuit works exactly the same, no sensors involved. You turn the key to start and you get 12V on the big purple wire--it's even still a purple wire :). And there's a clutch switch or park/neutral switch just like a '69 too.
 
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