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Broken Lifter...steps to fix this?

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#21 ·
DjD said:
Make sure the right studs are installed, you want flat tops with poly locks.
Click to expand...

In addition to what Dennis stated, make sure your screw in studs, are tall enough, to allow lots of thread into your poly locks. You can identify this by looking to see just where threads end, inside the lock barrel. That way you get lots of thread support and not prone to breaking off top of threaded stud or into threaded stud area. .
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Update:

Went to the engine builder with the broken pushrod and the good one I pulled out this morning.

He checked the unbroken one to make sure it was hardened (because that's what he ordered). On the band saw, it cut way too easy. Even the ball end cut too easy..it was harder, but not hard enough. The unbroken one was also showing wear, so he suspects that they are all the same way. He's also going to look up the invoice for the purchase from the vendor. He knows he ordered hardened ones and these clearly aren't correct.

He wants the car in his shop on Monday. He's going to reorder pushrods (chromoly ones this time) today and change the fluids and cut open the oil filter to make sure things are OK.

Should have the car back in time to leave for the track event.

He's been good to work with and has stood by his stuff. This is my second motor with him, so for that, I'm happy
 
#23 ·
I have a lot of respect for Bill and changed my way of thinking back in 2001 after he replied with this... Think about it!

BillK said:
Contrary to all popular opinion...ALL Small Block Chevy pushrods are hardened for use with guide plates. They have to be, because even on heads without guide plates, the pushrod still is located by the slot machined in the head.
From the cheapest 99cent a piece Melling ones to the Best you can buy. If you have a problem with a guide plate wearing a Chevy pushrod, it was caused by something else. If you look in all the after market catalogs, and the GM oem books, there is not a different pushrod listed for use with the motors that came with guide plates from the factory.
Now don't get me wrong, there are STRONGER pushrods available, and needed once you start running increased spring pressure or rpm, but they are all hardened.
Hope this helps,

------------------
Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Click to expand...
 
#24 ·
As mentioned above the issue is mostly caused by the fact that you are using standard pushrods with guide plates. You have to have hardend push rods. They are typically black or very dark. Trick Flow has a nice set for not a lot of money.

Your rocker arm is fine as long as it's not cracked.
 
#25 ·
DjD said:
I have a lot of respect for Bill and changed my way of thinking back in 2001 after he replied with this... Think about it!
Click to expand...

Dennis,
I have to disagree with this, steel rubbing on cast iron is a whole lot different that steel rubbing on steel. Cast iron is soft. I respect Bill as well but, can't follow this logic.
 
#27 ·
All is right, except builder, should have ran hardened pushrods, and better aligned guideplates. I get all my pushrods from Smith Brothers. They are in Oregon, have engines with well over 1000lbs of seat pressure with no failures. On a street driven engine with light mods i always run a Chromemoly .083 pushrod. I have never had a failure with those either.....Good luck....
 
#28 · (Edited)
DjD said:
I have a lot of respect for Bill and changed my way of thinking back in 2001 after he replied with this... Think about it!
Click to expand...
What Bill said is correct for the older non roller engines.The late factory roller cam engines use a guided rocker to align the valve train so the push rod doesnt touch anything but the lifter and rocker on the ends.As with anything you can get stuff that isnt up to spec.Because all pushrods are suppose to be hardened doesnt mean they are. The companies process could be off or they could be cheap China parts.
 
#29 ·
Check your pushrods with a regular flat file. If it digs in, they are not hardened. On a hardened rod, the file slides right across it without leaving a scratch in the metal.

I had a problem on a customer engine where I built it & the pushrods started wearing severely. They were not hardened properly. Replaced them with a different brand & everything was fine.

I do know the 96 up LT1 motors had pushrods that were not hardened.

Lonnie
 
#30 ·
Original GM BB pushrods were only hardened at one end, and had a blue or purple mark on the hardened end - if you install them upside-down, they'll get chewed up by the guide plates.

:beers:
 
#31 ·
JohnZ said:
Original GM BB pushrods were only hardened at one end, and had a blue or purple mark on the hardened end - if you install them upside-down, they'll get chewed up by the guide plates.

:beers:
Click to expand...
This is exactly right. A guy I know just munched a push rod in his BBC because he put it in upside down. They are sometimes marked TOP as well.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Here's how a shop stands by their work.

I towed the car to the shop. $92 bill.

Builder pulled all the pushrods. Only the two of them were chewed up. Since he got them as a set, he has no idea how that happened, but he's going to take it up directly with the company he bought them from.
Checked the alignment on the guide plates to make sure that wasn't the problem.
Looks like most of the 'fuzz' was grabbed by the magnets in the heads that were installed by the drains. Very little was in the oil filter.

All new chromoly pushrods installed
Fluids changed
Double checked the tune on the carb since it was there and made a couple adjustments.
Tightened up the sun visor screw too (the pass side was loose and it was driving him nuts while on the test drive.

I paid for the fluids (it was due anyway). No charge for any of the work and he paid the tow bill.

Anyone looking for a good engine builder in South Florida, just let me know and I'll pass along his information.
 
#33 ·
funbnme said:
Here's how a shop stands by their work.

I towed the car to the shop. $92 bill.

Builder pulled all the pushrods. Only the two of them were chewed up. Since he got them as a set, he has no idea how that happened, but he's going to take it up directly with the company he bought them from.
Checked the alignment on the guide plates to make sure that wasn't the problem.
Looks like most of the 'fuzz' was grabbed by the magnets in the heads that were installed by the drains. Very little was in the oil filter.

All new chromoly pushrods installed
Fluids changed
Double checked the tune on the carb since it was there and made a couple adjustments.
Tightened up the sun visor screw too (the pass side was loose and it was driving him nuts while on the test drive.

I paid for the fluids (it was due anyway). No charge for any of the work and he paid the tow bill.

Anyone looking for a good engine builder in South Florida, just let me know and I'll pass along his information.
Click to expand...

Now that's how customer service is suppose to be. It is becoming a lost art, these days. Glad to hear everything worked out.
 
#34 ·
With the increasing number of imported products, it is more probable that inferior parts will show up occasionally. I had the same problem with non-hardened pushrods that were supposed to be hardened. Now I only buy them from Comp Cams as I have verified their quality.

Obviously an engine shop cannot be expected to x-ray & hardness test engine parts... unless you are buying a high end $30K+ race piece. But they should not have to either.

I'm glad your builder took care of you & fortunately his reputation was not damaged due to faulty parts. Unfortunately the builder ate $100 plus labor for 2 defective $10 parts, but I bet he buys a different brand now. Sounds like you have a reputable builder that stands behind his work.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I've read some other posts of people who've had the opposite experience, so I know I can be confident when I recommend him to friends & other car nuts.

BTW, if you need any engine work here in South Florida, John's Cages gets my recommendation.
 
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