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Hatya

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok i have made my choice of cylinder heads, I am going with IK 180s, now i need to pick a cam
For what its worth I am replacing some old junk 1.72 intake heads, that alone should wake this thing up.

Thanks Wiskysour for calculating my compression with these new heads at 8.35

I am also going to be replacing my ignition with a Pertronix Plug n Play.

Here is some details on the car.

69 Camaro, stock body wieght (less aluminum head savings)
350 .030 bore 8.35: Compression ( Im not messing with changing the slugs at this time)
Older performer intake, with 650 edelbrock carb
I have roller tip comp camps rockers
200R4 trans 3:55 rear gear

I drive this car a lot as a street car, NOT A RACE CAR.

I guess after all the reading i have been doing about Flat tappet oil issues I am willing to go with a roller cam. Although i really didnt want to spend that much, o well.

Im looking for a daily driver with a nice sound, good drivabilty and some respectable power.

Thanks, any advice would be appreciated.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Chris are you sure you have a 350?The pic of the piston top looks like a set of TRW 327 pistons that I had once.If you clean the piston top off I bet their is a number on it.I think Harley got your comp. wrong I get 10.12 for a 350 with 64cc heads and 9.6 for a 327. If they are the TRW pistons like I think they are the valve relief CCs are 6.1 on the 350 and 5.4 on the 327 . I used this calculator http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html .If they are the pistons I think they are they are forged.Look for the number.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Ok the numbers on the piston are L2165 .030

The block casting number is 3932386

When i ran this casting number early this year it came back as a 69 350 block, so i assumber it was original to my car, but i never checked the date codes since i wasnt concerned about that.

Now i ran the piston numbers and i find alot of 327 info on that piston.

Is there any other numbers i can find that would help. Or should i just check the stroke? IF this is a 327 i may have to rethink the heads ?
 
#5 ·
Its a 327 piston but its forged so thats a plus.You can check the stroke just put the piston at the bottom and measure to the top of the block.3.25" = 327 3.48" = 350.The 386 block was 327 or 350 the crankshaft makes the difference.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
From what i read there was never a 4 bolt 327, so hopefully i drop the pan and see 4 bolt mains. I suppose i wouldnt be upset if it was a 327 tho, just a bit harder to make power with.

Then again i can spin it higher with a 327 right? As long as my valve train is in good shape.
 
#7 ·
Hatya said:
From what i read there was never a 4 bolt 327, so hopefully i drop the pan and see 4 bolt mains. I suppose i wouldnt be upset if it was a 327 tho, just a bit harder to make power with.

Then again i can spin it higher with a 327 right? As long as my valve train is in good shape.
Click to expand...
No 4 bolts from the factory but after 40 years anything is possible.I built one using a 3970010 4 bolt block and a 307 crank with the L2165 pistons.Yes you can spin it harder.
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
Hatya said:
2200 convertor.

Im confused now, which is easy to do.

If i have less stroke how does my compression go up?
Click to expand...
When Harley figured your comp. he used 20 CCs for the valve reliefs they are 5.4.That is where the comp. went up.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks a bunch Chad. At least now i know what i have. Unless anyone has any negative reason for not using the IK 180s on a 327 i.d still like to go that way. I dont like the look of center bolt valve covers that id have to use on vortecs.

Also im planning on a pro flo2 EFI set up soon. So i dont want to have to get a new intake until then for the vortecs.

Harley never got to see the pistons so when i said it had big valve releifs, then his assumption was correct.

I still doubt id spin this thing much more then 5500 other then rare occassions, but its nice to know i can hit 6k comfortably. Hell ive seen many a 327 spun to 7k with no issues. But id have to redo the bottom end before i felt comfortable with that.

That being said, would you still choose those 2 cams above. Also shouldnt i be looking at rollers after all of this dam oil crap i have been reading, and wouldnt a roller allow me higher RPMs with more confidence?
 
#14 ·
Nothing wrong with a 327.

I'd look at Comp Cams XE268H flat hydraulic tappet cam. If you are dead set on a hyd roller, then try the XR270HR (if this is the older block that needs a retro-fit roller).

I don't know what oiling problems you heard about, but the old school flat hydraulic cams and lifters work fine in a street motor, we used them for decades before the hyd rollers started getting used.
 
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#15 ·
With reasonable spring pressure I think flat tappet cams are still OK.I just put one in my new 408.With 110lbs. seat presure and 290lbs. open so far no trouble.Not all but alot of the trouble was with the XE cams and high spring pressure.But roller cams are real nice if you have the budget.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
#18 ·
You get a 327 up to 10 to 1 and install an old Isky Z-20 or Z-25 solid lifter cam and she will run like a "scalded-dog"!!

pdq67

PS, where's my Buddy Mark, (mbrekke) at?

And a 272/272 Energizer is great here for a hy-cam.
 
#19 ·
You get a 327 up to 10 to 1 and install an old Isky Z-20 or Z-25 solid lifter cam and she will run like a "scalded-dog"!!

pdq67

PS, where's my Buddy Mark, (mbrekke) at?

And a 272/272 Energizer is great here for a hy-cam b/c I had one in my hopped up 300hp/327 so know!.
 
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