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bld22663

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I would like to install an electric fan on my stock 67 conv., but I am not sure which kind, size, RPM or brand. I understand from reading that it is best if you use a puller instead of a pusher. I also understand that the fan should cover at least 70% of the radiator. I would really like to find a fan that would allow me to retain the factory shroud if possible. My car is equiped with air so I assume I will need to purchase one with an A/C relay as well as a thermostat. Anyone have any advice?:confused:
 
#2 ·
Forget the 70% rule.You need to pull on the core surface @ 100%.The factory fan is smaller than the core surface..but the shroud makes it larger by yanking on the total surface area.Some will pipe in with combos that work for them...most will be low hp combos.If you are stock with no overheating issues and looking to find some free hp..the flexalite black magic 3000 cfm fully shrouded will be overkill and allow you to ditch the factory shroud for a clean look and increased front engine access.Simple to operate the fan with a relay to cool the ac condenser on demand.
 
#3 ·
You want the fan to cover almost 100% of the core. The more the better. I run a BeCool radiator made for a big block(24" core) and I run a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic fan #180. It's a puller and it has its own shroud. This combo allows me to sit in traffic in 95*+ days and never get above 200*(electric fan turn on temp). You should run as large a radiator as you can possibly fit. If that means opening up the core support, then so be it. I had to do just this. The small block core is 21". After removing the radiator, I took and wizard wheel and made the necessary cut around the circumferance of the support. Took me about 15 minutes to do the cutting.

Here is the radiator I run:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4925084+4294840140+4294889107+4294792880+4294906186+4294883143+115&autoview=sku

The core is actually 23"

Here is the fan I run:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-180&N=700+0&autoview=sku
 
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#4 ·
67CamaroRS/SS said:
You want the fan to cover almost 100% of the core. The more the better. I run a BeCool radiator made for a big block(24" core) and I run a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic fan #180. It's a puller and it has its own shroud. This combo allows me to sit in traffic in 95*+ days and never get above 200*(electric fan turn on temp). You should run as large a radiator as you can possibly fit. If that means opening up the core support, then so be it. I had to do just this. The small block core is 21". After removing the radiator, I took and wizard wheel and made the necessary cut around the circumferance of the support. Took me about 15 minutes to do the cutting.

Here is the radiator I run:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4925084+4294840140+4294889107+4294792880+4294906186+4294883143+115&autoview=sku

The core is actually 23"

Here is the fan I run:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-180&N=700+0&autoview=sku
Click to expand...
The radiator and fan that Charlie is running is a nice setup. I have seen aluminum BB radiators with dual fans for around $600.00. Here is one that I found and would save you about $300.00 on the setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alum...emZ350131652518QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ebayphotohosting
 
#5 ·
prostreet69camaro said:
The radiator and fan that Charlie is running is a nice setup. I have seen aluminum BB radiators with dual fans for around $600.00. Here is one that I found and would save you about $300.00 on the setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alum...emZ350131652518QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ebayphotohosting
Click to expand...
Mike, I agree. That is an Entropy setup. A very nice setup. In fact, if I had it to do over again, I would go with that setup. I plan to use an Entropy setup when I get my 69. The only thing about this setup is, they pull 35-40 amps and delivers 3000cfm together. My single fan pulls 18 amps and produces 3300cfm. The welds on the shroud are absolutely gorgeous. That is the reason I plan to use them next time. My setup produces more output and draws less amps, but I have to admit, it's not as pretty. Mine setup is nice, but the Entropy setup is nicer.

The price is right on the Entropy setup.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I installed an Entropy in my 69. Mine is an a/c car but presently don't have that up and running. I love my Entropy setup. I did do a little extra polishing on it prior to install. It is not quite as shiny as the picture. I also purchased the wiring harness from them also. Had to do a little cutting and splicing because the harness they send is a little big, but hook up is easy. Do a search for Entropy radiator installed. I have some pics of my setup and clearance pics from the rad.- the front pullies. I wouldn't cut the front core support. You should have plenty of cooling. Originally my car had just the SB radiator and it is an a/c original car. If you do go from a SB to BB radiator you will need to get the upper hose for a 68 SB w/ac. Along with my pictures I state what thermostat I'm using and the temps. I'm running. For the money and looks I don't think you can beat the Entropy. JMO
 
#11 ·
tgifford5 said:
I installed an Entropy in my 69. Mine is an a/c car but presently don't have that up and running. I love my Entropy setup. I did do a little extra polishing on it prior to install. It is not quite as shiny as the picture. I also purchased the wiring harness from them also. Had to do a little cutting and splicing because the harness they send is a little big, but hook up is easy. Do a search for Entropy radiator installed. I have some pics of my setup and clearance pics from the rad.- the front pullies. I wouldn't cut the front core support. You should have plenty of cooling. Originally my car had just the SB radiator and it is an a/c original car. If you do go from a SB to BB radiator you will need to get the upper hose for a 68 SB w/ac. Along with my pictures I state what thermostat I'm using and the temps. I'm running. For the money and looks I don't think you can beat the Entropy. JMO
Click to expand...
If you have an A/C car, then you already have the larger core rad. That is why you didn't have to enlarge your core support. My car was a non A/C car so for me to install the larger rad, I needed to enlarge the support. If not, then the entire core would not have air flow. There would be portions of it around the outer edge that would not receive air flow. IMO, it's kind of a waste of money if you install a big block rad in a small block non A/C car and not open up the core support. It's just like installing a smaller rad. You will have all this area of radiator core that is not cooling as much as it is capable of due to non air flow.

As far as upper hose, I didn't have to change my hose. If I remember correctly, all the upper hoses are the same(Gates #20606). I didn't have to change my lower hose either.
 
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#12 ·
67 Camaro, are you telling us that the core supports are different for A/C cars and non A/C? The difference is where the small core or the large core mounts. The opening is the same. Others correct me if I am wrong. I have not seen available 2 different core supports. Changing from a small core rad. to a large (BB) core a person will need to change their upper hose for correct fitment if having a SB. The bottom is the same for either. Do some searches regarding this. Others I have read have original SB a/c cars and have the 21" radiator core not the large core. In 69 all SB camaros used 21" rad., they may have more rows(thickness) but the width was the same. BB camaros got the 23" radiator. Check out the camaros.org site. A lot of good info there.
 
#13 ·
I looked on Rock Auto yesterday and they show the same upper hose for ALL Camaro small blocks. I did not have to change my hose to install the larger rad and I did have to open my core support. The reproduction core supports may be made to accept either rad, but had I not opened my core support, I would have had an area all around the outer edge of the rad that did not receive air flow.
 
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#14 ·
The following information I pulled directly from Rock Auto's website:

1967 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.4L 327cid V8 : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose Related Parts

Item Price Core Total
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
W/O A.C.; W/Std. Cool.; Cut at A Upper
W/A.C.; W/210 H.P. Eng.; Cut at A Upper


1968 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.4L 327cid V8 (HJ) : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose Related Parts

Item Price Core Total
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
Upper


1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.4L 327cid V8 (FB) : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose Related Parts

Item Price Core Total
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
W/O A.C. Upper
W/A.C. Upper


1967 CHEVROLET CAMARO 6.5L 396cid V8 : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose Related Parts

Item Price Core Total
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
Cut at A Upper


1968 CHEVROLET CAMARO 6.5L 396cid V8 : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose Related Parts

Item Price Core Total
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
Cut at A Upper


1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO 6.5L 396cid V8 : Cooling System : Radiator Upper Hose
GATES Part # 20606 {1 1/2" x 20 1/2" Does Not Contain Spring}
W/O A.C.; Cut at A Upper


As you can see, 67/8/9 small block and big block upper hoses are the same. You do not need to change your upper hose is you change from a small core to a large core rad.
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
There's some interesting conversation going on here. The fact is; my 67 did not come with air, it was professionally installed about 5 years ago. When I purchased the car 2 years ago I noticed some heating problems and the rad looked like it had been taken apart and put back together a few times. Avoiding problems on the road, I installed a new 3 core factory style rad. It has flex fan on it that I don't really care for and with the 160 degree thermostat it will still heat up to 200 when at an idle on hot days. I think an elec. fan would be more efficient while saving a little horse power. Am I correct or would I just be wasting my money?
 
#16 ·
First, get rid of the flex fan. Second, get rid of the 160* stat and install a 180*. Are you running a shroud? If not, then it is a MUST!!! In my previous post, I linked to the exact setup I run and my car will idle ALL DAY LONG in 95*+ and never heat up past 200*. 200* is when my fan turns on. Flex fans are horrible, IMO. They are notorious for coming apart and when they do, they usually take the rad and sometimes the hood with them. At high RPM's, they actually fail to cool because the blades flex too much, but that is the way they are made. Definately chuck that thing in the garbage along with the 160* stat. I would get a Mr. Gasket 180* performance stat, but make sure it's not the type with the holes in it. Those are not bad, but in cold weather, they will affect your heater output. I found that out the hard way. I couldn't understand why my heat wasn't as hot as it should be, then I forgot that I neglected to switch the Stewert performance stat with holes in it out for my Mr. Gasket performance stat without holes when it started to get cold out. Now, I just leave the Mr. Gasket stat in all the time. If you choose not to get the components I linked to, then I would definately get the Entropy unit. Also, I would invest in a high flow water pump.

An aluminum 2 core radiator can out perform a 4 core brass/copper rad. Not to mention, they look 1000 times better. Definately get a shroud for your fan. It needs to cover the entire core. An electric fan without a shroud or any fan without a shroud is only going to pull air through the diameter of the fan. A shroud allows air to be pulled through the entire core.
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
I am running a factory shroud. Part of my problem is the condensing coils for the added A/C are in front of the rad. I don't think there is a belt driven fan that can pull enough air through to cool the engine when setting still in extreme heat. Another issue is, the previous owner passed away before I purchased the car and I don't know if the engine was ever rebuilt and if it was how much it may have been bored. It is a numbers matching car and I would assume some work has been done to it.
 
#18 ·
I have the factory fan clutch/7 blade fan on my 375HP 327 '67. I also have a vintage air unit. I use a small pusher electric fan on the front of my condenser that only comes on with the A/C and my car never gets above 195 in the summer. Oh yeah, my radiator is stock. One of the Hot Rod type magazines did a cooling fan comparison awhile back and they pretty much said you can't go wrong with the factory set up on a street car. If you're only getting up to 200 degrees with your current setup, you're fine, but do get rid of the flex fan.
 
#19 ·
The flex fan, IMO, is your problem, or at least 90%-95% of the problem. How far does the fan sit into the shroud? It should sit half in and half out. Also, the fan should be as wide as it can be to fill the shroud opening.
 
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