so i got a 1980 camaro LS with a 327 sbc. i ordered a twin turbo kit for it, but it didn't come with an install guide. where could i go to find a install guide, rather then forking out 400 bucks to have a shop install it?
Twin Turbo Install on 327
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80camarotwntrbo
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These work great if you wanna keep the modulator. I will be using this on my Procharged set up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...yISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&viewitem=&item=260134015180
You'll definately need a high output electric fuel pump, bigger fuel line and fuel injectors if you are running a fuel injected setup. Or if a carb setup, then one built specifically for forced induction. As others have mentioned, forged pistions, high quality rings, a good set of rods and crank are needed as well as a MLS type head gasket and head studs. If you have a strong short block and a good fuel system, then you can really crank up the boost. The bad thing is that the trans and rear need to be able to handle it. Go to www.nelsonracingengines.com and look at some of the components he uses in his twin turbo motors. I know your probably not going for that kind of power in your first build, but the better the foundation you build now, the more boost you can run without extra mods later. :thumbsup:
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433 Posts
I see one problem- with only 3/4 of a camshaft your only going to run on 6 cylinders. lol
First off. there is no need to sleeve your cylinders if you are not putting a forged crank and rods in and there is really no need for forged pistons either.
Its like spending alot of money on half of what it takes for high pressures and torque but cheating the other half. It wont work right.
The stock crank will fail no matter what people have gotten away with if you have 600+ in a stock crank you a history sooner or later. Especially if the machine shop is not checking it.
I would personally listen to some of the people like SRGN.
You need to enrichen your fuel at higher loads and boost. 11.5 AFR should be good since pump gas is about 13.2 now due to it being oxygenated fuel. The increased AFR will help cool down the intake charge and exhaust which overall will increase performance and decrease detonation.
I would put a smaller forced induction cam in it one that sees maybe 6500 due to you have some larger turbos and you will need some airflow to take full advantage of them but if you have to much you will grenade your bottom end.
Need a good flow through carb. Need a wideband 02 because if you drop fuel pressure at any time under boost your motor will most likely be gone. I would also highly recommend ringing your heads because the gaskets that you have to used for boost applications are usually copper which will give you nothing but problems if you are trying to street run the motor.
This is alot alot alot alot alot of work and effort and knowledge to get a system like this to run. I would let someone install it and tune it for you. FORGED is what you need.
Trans will blow. Kiss your TH350 good bye no one NO ONE can build a th350 past 700 hp that will last that long. Even at 6-8 psi if done correctly you will be in this neighborhood. And most likely you trans was not built with this in mind or by a talented enough builder there are very few people that can make the th350 last in the 600+ hp area.
Lastly if you put anything besides street tires on it you will drop and axle and wreak havoc on you car. Unless you have 12 bolt. if you have a twelve bolt you should be ok if not you need to do some serious thinking over before you decide to do this.
Yes you happened upon a great deal but who cares if your car is not ready. All it is is asking for trouble and disaster. Build your car up to that point slowly put the turbos away enjoy building the car into what you want knowing that down the road you have the kit to install and untill then keep reading. DO NOT install these any time soon or failure is bound to happen.
Its like spending alot of money on half of what it takes for high pressures and torque but cheating the other half. It wont work right.
The stock crank will fail no matter what people have gotten away with if you have 600+ in a stock crank you a history sooner or later. Especially if the machine shop is not checking it.
I would personally listen to some of the people like SRGN.
You need to enrichen your fuel at higher loads and boost. 11.5 AFR should be good since pump gas is about 13.2 now due to it being oxygenated fuel. The increased AFR will help cool down the intake charge and exhaust which overall will increase performance and decrease detonation.
I would put a smaller forced induction cam in it one that sees maybe 6500 due to you have some larger turbos and you will need some airflow to take full advantage of them but if you have to much you will grenade your bottom end.
Need a good flow through carb. Need a wideband 02 because if you drop fuel pressure at any time under boost your motor will most likely be gone. I would also highly recommend ringing your heads because the gaskets that you have to used for boost applications are usually copper which will give you nothing but problems if you are trying to street run the motor.
This is alot alot alot alot alot of work and effort and knowledge to get a system like this to run. I would let someone install it and tune it for you. FORGED is what you need.
Trans will blow. Kiss your TH350 good bye no one NO ONE can build a th350 past 700 hp that will last that long. Even at 6-8 psi if done correctly you will be in this neighborhood. And most likely you trans was not built with this in mind or by a talented enough builder there are very few people that can make the th350 last in the 600+ hp area.
Lastly if you put anything besides street tires on it you will drop and axle and wreak havoc on you car. Unless you have 12 bolt. if you have a twelve bolt you should be ok if not you need to do some serious thinking over before you decide to do this.
Yes you happened upon a great deal but who cares if your car is not ready. All it is is asking for trouble and disaster. Build your car up to that point slowly put the turbos away enjoy building the car into what you want knowing that down the road you have the kit to install and untill then keep reading. DO NOT install these any time soon or failure is bound to happen.
New to the site and thought that I would throw up some combo's that we have put together and the power number's we have made. We have used a lot of very basic parts and made good power with them... This is all through a TH400 transmission, 12-bolt with 2.73 gears, A1000 fuel pump, boost referenced fuel pressure regulator, MSD 6AL with BTM.
***Carb was a blow-through 750cfm Holley built by CSU Carbs***
**1st engine (383 sbc):
STOCK 4-bolt main block
Scatt 9000 CAST Crank
Powdered rods (stock)
CHEAP probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression
STOCK cast-iron heads 993-cast# (Cometic head gaskets)
small cam *224/218 dur., .541 lift 114ls* ---solid roller---
Victor Jr. Intake
CSU 750cfm blow-through carb
21-22lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 780rwhp & 807rwtq
14lbs and pump gas (water/meth)... 661rwhp & 700+rwtq
(max rpm: 5,500)
As long as you can keep the rpm down and the tune safe you can make stock parts live for quite a while. The first motor we actually overboosted to probably 40psi on accident and it bent the 4-rods in the middle, STILL drove it home!! Pulled it apart and the crank was PERFECT so we threw in another set of stock rods and beat the crap out of it!
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**2nd engine (383 sbc) *In the video*:
STOCK 2-bolt main block with splayed 4-bolt caps
Forged Crank
Forged H-beam rods
CHEAP Probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression
Pro-Comp 190cc aluminum heads (Cometic head gaskets)
Larger N/A based cam *541lift...238/234 duration @50, 115ls* ---hydraulic roller---
Victor Jr. Intake
CSU 750cfm blow-through carb
24lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 820rwhp &751rwtq (max rpm: 6,500)
You don't need a high dollar, high rpm engine to make a bunch of power. The cam in the 2nd engine was more of a N/A cam which we threw in to show what your typical hot-rodder might already have in the car. With a more turbo oriented cam it would have produced more power. This motor had roughly 48 dyno pulls and many street miles and is still running strong!! It's not too difficult to hit 1,000hp at the crank.....
Here is a little video that we made for the 2008 SEMA show... All of the street video was on the pump gas tune as the 'kill tune' was way to much for the street.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
***Carb was a blow-through 750cfm Holley built by CSU Carbs***
**1st engine (383 sbc):
STOCK 4-bolt main block
Scatt 9000 CAST Crank
Powdered rods (stock)
CHEAP probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression
STOCK cast-iron heads 993-cast# (Cometic head gaskets)
small cam *224/218 dur., .541 lift 114ls* ---solid roller---
Victor Jr. Intake
CSU 750cfm blow-through carb
21-22lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 780rwhp & 807rwtq
14lbs and pump gas (water/meth)... 661rwhp & 700+rwtq
(max rpm: 5,500)
As long as you can keep the rpm down and the tune safe you can make stock parts live for quite a while. The first motor we actually overboosted to probably 40psi on accident and it bent the 4-rods in the middle, STILL drove it home!! Pulled it apart and the crank was PERFECT so we threw in another set of stock rods and beat the crap out of it!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
**2nd engine (383 sbc) *In the video*:
STOCK 2-bolt main block with splayed 4-bolt caps
Forged Crank
Forged H-beam rods
CHEAP Probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression
Pro-Comp 190cc aluminum heads (Cometic head gaskets)
Larger N/A based cam *541lift...238/234 duration @50, 115ls* ---hydraulic roller---
Victor Jr. Intake
CSU 750cfm blow-through carb
24lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 820rwhp &751rwtq (max rpm: 6,500)
You don't need a high dollar, high rpm engine to make a bunch of power. The cam in the 2nd engine was more of a N/A cam which we threw in to show what your typical hot-rodder might already have in the car. With a more turbo oriented cam it would have produced more power. This motor had roughly 48 dyno pulls and many street miles and is still running strong!! It's not too difficult to hit 1,000hp at the crank.....
Here is a little video that we made for the 2008 SEMA show... All of the street video was on the pump gas tune as the 'kill tune' was way to much for the street.
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845 Posts
SWWWWEEEEEEEETTTTTTTT video! I want I want. I guess big speed comes with big $'s too.
Just curious but people actually buy the first combo from you??
I would never even consider a cast crank in an engine over 500 rwhp. Its asking for crank failure because I have seen forged cranks fail at lower power levels than that.
Besides that pretty sweet stuff. If i had the money I would jump on your forged crank setup. OUt of curiousity have you tuned for E85 because I was debating sticking a blower on my engine and sticking some E85 in here since its equivalent to 116 octane and its cooling properties are unbelievable
I would never even consider a cast crank in an engine over 500 rwhp. Its asking for crank failure because I have seen forged cranks fail at lower power levels than that.
Besides that pretty sweet stuff. If i had the money I would jump on your forged crank setup. OUt of curiousity have you tuned for E85 because I was debating sticking a blower on my engine and sticking some E85 in here since its equivalent to 116 octane and its cooling properties are unbelievable
We actually don't sell engine's at this point, just the twin turbo system. We made a few design changes on the headers to get the design tighter and are looking to have kits ready by the end of february.
We built some basic setup's to show that you don't need high dollar parts to make big horsepower numbers. We bent the 4 middle rods on the first engine with the CAST crank (40lbs on the dyno, still drove home) and the crank checked out fine, so we threw some new rods in the motor and kept beating it up with no problems.
If you hop onto theturboforums.com and go to the 'carburetor & boost tech' section, there are some guy's in there that have switched to E85. We haven't tried to run E85.....yet.
actually e85 is closer to 110 octane but the cooling properties cooling down the IAT charge makes it act like 116. not to mention significantly decreases wear on cylinder walls and so far seems to decrease wear on fuel pumps and also decreases carbon deposits.
Yes, this turbo system was designed for the 1st gen camaro, so it will also fit Chevelle's, Nova's, Impalla's, trucks, etc. We built it to be as compact as possible to fit into as many vehicles as possible. It sticks out roughly 5-1/2" from the head (header flange surface), sticks out 1/2" in front of water pump pulley (long pump) and dumps down where a normal header would.
We are shooting for $6,995 for this system.... It is the whole turbo system minus fuel system and electrical... We are currently trying to put together a system for $5,995 which will be non-name brand turbo's and wastegate's, they will still be ball-bearing and water cooled.
*2 – Turbo headers (with header bolts & gaskets)
*2 – 63mm Turbonetics ball-bearing, water-cooled turbos (with flange bolts & nuts)
*2 – Downpipes (with V-bands & bellhousing brackets)
*2 – Wastegates (with bolts and downpipe merge pipe)
*2 – aluminum mandrel bent charge pipes (with 4-silicone hoses and 4 t-bolt clamps)
*1 – 2 into 1 wrenchrat merge (for charge pipes to merge into carb hat or EFI elbow. With silicone hose and 2 t-bolt clamps)
*1 – Blow-off valve (with V-band)
*2 – Rubber 90 degree elbows (turbo inlet to air filters with clamps)
*2 – Rubber cobra elbows (alternate turbo inlet to air filter with clamps)
*2 – Air filters (with clamps)
*2 – Steel braided oil feed lines (with T-fitting for oil port)
*2 – Aluminum turbo oil return fittings (4-bolts, rubber return hose and 4 clamps)
*Turbo water cooling system
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14,771 Posts
you can fit the carb hat on there under a cowl hood, even with a Vic Jr. The problem will be the inlet pipes to the CSU hat. They will not clear the stock hood unless you cut out the inner support structure, and even then may not clear without some re-working of the inlet angle.
Jody
Thats exactly what I was getting at. Looks like the dual inlets would need to be pointed down alot to be close. Cool system...I like it!
With an Extreme Velocity bonnet it "might" fit. They have a downward angle to the inlet. If you guys could verify it would fit an uncut 2" cowl hood you would have alot more buyers. I know for me if I have t cut or go with a bigger hood it would be out of the question.
We will soon have an angled silicone hose (connector from HAT to collector) that will point the 2 into 1 intake collector down for added clearance. All you will need to do is trim the aluminum intake pipes a little to make everything fit. The silicone hoses are a little long so that it can fit different intake heights (Higher or Lower).
We have been trying to design everything as tight as possible and appreciate all of your guys' input on the system, it always helps to have fresh eye's checking out the system. :thumbsup:
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