I was installing my new SPC upper control arms today on my 67 and I got to thinking about the upper bump stop. The stock uppers have one but the SPC uppers don't. What happens when you jack up the car or you hit one of those spots in the road and your suspension unloads will the arms hit the subframe? I have the TVS springs on the front so the car will sit 1 1/2 to 2'' lower so the shocks wont run out of travel. Hope this isn't a stupid question.
SPC upper control arm question
chucky 67
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I was installing my new SPC upper control arms today on my 67 and I got to thinking about the upper bump stop. The stock uppers have one but the SPC uppers don't. What happens when you jack up the car or you hit one of those spots in the road and your suspension unloads will the arms hit the subframe? I have the TVS springs on the front so the car will sit 1 1/2 to 2'' lower so the shocks wont run out of travel. Hope this isn't a stupid question.
I have the SPC adjustable upper arms and had the same concerns. Jacking up the car will force the rear arm to hit the frame and this can also happen at the track. Several companies offer cable style travel limiters for this problem. However, I simply welded brackets to the frame and the lower control arm and use pins to hold a chain link to prevent the upper arm from hitting the frame. The chain does not seem to make any noticable noise and works fine. I'll post some photos later.
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Mark said not to worry about it. I did the guldstrand mod too, which lowered the a-arm mount, the rear bar on my spc's is hard into the frame when I jack the car up.
It's been like that for 2 years.
The alignment hasn't changed.
No effect that I can see.
It's been like that for 2 years.
The alignment hasn't changed.
No effect that I can see.
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630 Posts
You can also get nylon strap limiters from most 4-wheel drive shops which is what I did with my SPC uppers on my second gen Camaro. I purchased 6" long straps from Pyrotech, I think they were around $40 for the pair. I made a couple of 1" dia by 3/4" long steel buttons tapped with a 1/2-13 coarse thread which I welded to the frame and lower control arm on the backside of the spring pocket. They look good and with the nylon there is no noise at all. Not the only way to do but it works well and looks decent.
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Marcus(SC & C) was the one that suggested the nylon straps.........Thx Marcus!! 
I like the limiting straps but I hate to weld to the control arm and sub frame I just had them both powder coated. I need to make a trip to the off road parts house this week, I will check them out and see what I can come up with.
Ironically I am in the garage installing my SPC UCA's with ATX spindals tonight and CRAP the USA'a hit the frame. If anybody has performed the strap option yet some pictures would be great. Additionally I dont know if its beacuse theres not load or it just requires lots of adjustment but the vertical arm on my spindals is tilted forward with the upper ball joint dramatically forward of the lower bal joint. Normal?
the USA'a hit the frame. If anybody has performed the strap option yet some pictures would be great. Additionally I dont know if its beacuse theres not load or it just requires lots of adjustment but the vertical arm on my spindals is tilted forward with the upper ball joint dramatically forward of the lower bal joint. Normal?
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I had all kinds of pictures from when I did my front suspension on my 80' but can't seem to find them now. If I get time over the weekend I will jack up the pass side and snap a few pcitures of how I did mine.
The UCA's WILL hit the frame with the suspension in full droop. Don't worry about it. With the weight back on the car they won't hit. Adjust the arms so that the spindle looks to be vertical or even slightly rearward at the top and then take it to the line up shop.Ironically I am in the garage installing my SPC UCA's with ATX spindals tonight and CRAP
I just don't like the idea of an aluminum suspension piece hitting the frame. I tried a cable limiter kit but the cable ends pulled right off when I jacked up the car to test them. The straps would be nice but I went with a chain. Simple and effective.
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Chuck,
I believe I ordered them at 6" but I would have to locate the original packing list to know for sure.
Link to Pyrotect page with straps:
http://www.pyrotect.com/product.php?productid=95&cat=20&page=1
Tom
I believe I ordered them at 6" but I would have to locate the original packing list to know for sure.
Link to Pyrotect page with straps:
http://www.pyrotect.com/product.php?productid=95&cat=20&page=1
Tom
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630 Posts
Chuck,
There is welding invovled. I made some steel buttons from 1" diameter bar stock cut to 3/4" long then drilled and tapped the center with a 1/2-12 UNC thread. I welded one to the frame and one to the control arm. Look at the 3rd pic I posted and you should be able to see the "buttons" and the weld around them. For the intended purpose I suppose you could drill a 1/2" thru the frame and the side of the LCA and make a spacer. Not sure how easy it would be to get a nut on the bolt inside the frame horn. There could be some reduction in the strength of the LCA by drilling a 1/2" hole thru the side, would be minimal, maybe others can commemt on this. I choose to weld because I think it is the better way.
Tom
There is welding invovled. I made some steel buttons from 1" diameter bar stock cut to 3/4" long then drilled and tapped the center with a 1/2-12 UNC thread. I welded one to the frame and one to the control arm. Look at the 3rd pic I posted and you should be able to see the "buttons" and the weld around them. For the intended purpose I suppose you could drill a 1/2" thru the frame and the side of the LCA and make a spacer. Not sure how easy it would be to get a nut on the bolt inside the frame horn. There could be some reduction in the strength of the LCA by drilling a 1/2" hole thru the side, would be minimal, maybe others can commemt on this. I choose to weld because I think it is the better way.
Tom
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supposed to be a 1/2-13 UNC thread.........my typing sucks sometimes!
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