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camaro keeps stalling after abrupt stop

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
ok i just tried it. On the way to the straight away near a field as the engine was cold the car ran perfectfully fine, no matter whether or not i came to a strong stop, the idle went kind of low but stayed on. As the car got hotter and warmed up since i drove it about 5 miles to the field area it stated to stall at stop signs, this made me eager to disconnect the vacumm from the booster,

I pulled over at the straight away and disconnected the beige plug and stuck a rag in it making sure that i wasnt losing vacumm, i drove th car with brakes that felt stiff with just a master cynlinder no brake booster, can to a slow stop and the car idle went low and stalled and died out had to restart and than tried it again speed up slowed down no tir burning or anything the idle went low and car died, the key here is the problem still exists however it doent do it until the car is hot and warmed up, i hope that that might help as it could have something to do withn the choke but its not the bake booster so that only leaves the electric fule pump and the carb left.

The electric fuel pump is new about 2 months old and the edlebrock carb is 10 years old .
any suggestions?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
i am not sure of that but i have found out the car only stalls when the engine is "hott", when driving however it runs perectfully fine, when in drive it idles fine, only when coming to a stop as though im putting strain on the engine or something will the idel drop and than stall. The carb is at least 10 years old, as i bought it in dallas back in the 90s couldbe 11 years old,
 
#25 ·
knightmoose said:
i am not sure of that but i have found out the car only stalls when the engine is "hott", when driving however it runs perectfully fine, when in drive it idles fine, only when coming to a stop as though im putting strain on the engine or something will the idel drop and than stall. The carb is at least 10 years old, as i bought it in dallas back in the 90s couldbe 11 years old,
Click to expand...

When disassembling the carburetor, pay close attention to the float adjustment as I believe they're adjusted too low and starving the engine of fuel on abrupt stops!:yes:....Are you smelling any odor of raw gas when this occurs?
 
#26 ·
I vote for a low primary float level and/or a too high secondary float level. Do Edelbrocks have a secondary float?
 
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#28 ·
Checking the float level is free. Might need a gasket.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
what does reseting the floats involve, dismatle of the carb etc? rebuild and all that mess, it is over 10 years old and the same exact 1 is 279.00 bucks and there is a military discount at auto zone 10 percent to off set some of that economy that GWB messed up, shouldnt i simply buy another 1?
 
#31 ·
Badbird said:
I really didn't think it would be the brake booster!.....Sounds like it's time to renew that old Edelbrock carburetor!.....Are you sure that the choke is opening up fully when the engine is warm?
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I think maybe he has ruled the booster out but I doubt that a rag would plug the line enough. I had a 1981 GMC that would start running like crap and by using a guage, I did determine it was a vacuum leak. After a lot of throwing parts at it, an old guy told me to replace the booster because the diaphragm was shot. It worked for me. The only difference I am seeing here is his is happening hot. I now wonder if his choke is totally open? Then again, he is running an Edlebrock which I am not fond of at all.
 
#32 ·
Aren't Edelbrocks the old Carter AFB?
Moose, can I suggest a call to Edelbrock or a visit to their web site or google? Most carbs are simple to set the float level. But lordy, it sure sounds like you have your eye on a new carb. I learned a long time ago to not stand in the way when a car nut spots a must-have part.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Fred Ficarra said:
Aren't Edelbrocks the old Carter AFB?
Moose, can I suggest a call to Edelbrock or a visit to their web site or google? Most carbs are simple to set the float level. But lordy, it sure sounds like you have your eye on a new carb. I learned a long time ago to not stand in the way when a car nut spots a must-have part.
Click to expand...
yes i have already purchased the new carb it was only 272 bucks, why full around with fuel and all that, the carb lasted me at least 11 or 12 years, i bought the things from auto zone when i was living in dallas and i want to say i bought it in 1998 it has lasted and even served its time in the midwest in freezing below zero with car covered with snow for 8 of those years, im not fooling around with floats and all that, it didnt do this during the years past and really started doing this within the last 8 months, anyways they as i recall arent difficult to install about 4 bolts etc, if memory is correct isnt it screw both screws all the way in than back out 4 complete turns for chevy i doont think they come pre-set, i hope this is the fix im not saying it is, but yes i rulled out the brake boster, and yes the rag did stop all vacumn leak its a very small plug with 4 small holes in the vacumn line, the boster itself and master cyn i bought in june of 08, anyways while in the parking lot i let it drive, without any sudden stops, when i placed it in reverse the car wanted to die when i placed it in drive it wanted to die until i hit the pedal 1 time, this rasied the idle so i looked at the carb all the metal parts are a bit worn and stiff, the choke is stiff the brackets are stiff etc, so yes i thinks it the carb it is a fuel problem, i can see where the power boster could be a problem, but it isnt disconnected the car ran as a champ fast strong when slowed down the idle dropped drasticcally and car stalled, i think its the carb, anyways i paid for a new carb should last another 10 years hopefully this fixes the issue i will reply back 2morrow and let others know so if they run into this matter they will be abreast of what it could be thanks.
 
#35 ·
4 turns out seems extremely rich!....I think it's more like 2 turns on an Edelbrock carb.....Good luck man and let us know, OK?


I wish you could at least take the old one apart and check the float level and float drop.....And also check the actual floats by shaking them to see if they are filled with gas from a defective seam......I was recently given a #1411, 750 cfm Edelbrock carb which is around 10 years old and upon disassembly, I discovered a float which was filled with gas!.....I just had to purchase a new float kit, which includes 2 floats and 2 float pins.
 
#36 ·
I didn't read the entire post.
I STRONGLY believe it's the fuel float level.
I had a 750cfm eddy on a 327 (yes, way too large at the time) and when I would corner or get on the brakes some what good it would just die.
Adjusted the floats and it's never done it again.
It is really easy to just pop off the top of the carb with a tork (sp?) and bend the floats a little.
Just because it's new does not mean it's right, many out of the box are far from right.

Happy motoring.
 
#37 ·
What is your fuel pressure? Edelbrock carbs max pressure is 6psi and running 5.5 is probably better. It is very easy to check your floats. If you can use a screw driver and a set of needle nose plyers, then you can check your floats and you don't need to remove the carb from the manifold. Remove all the linkages that attach to the top plate assembly, the fuel line, and the 8 screws that hold the top air horn on. Remove the air horn assembly. Both floats are attached to it. The floats should hang down about an inch from the bottom of the plate. I forgot the extract amount, but edelbrock post that on their website. Then flip the air horn assembly over so the floats are on top and measure the distance. It should be about 7/16 of an inch with the gasket in place.

I recommed buying a rebuild kit for around $35. If comes with instructions, new gaskets and its not hard to do. The kit's instruction tell you how to adjust your float, your choke, and to make sure your throttle butterflies are opening all the way.
 
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#38 ·
My 71 was also stalling, or would try do stall, when coming to a stop. I would have do the old "two footer" - stick the car in neutral and brake with one foot and rev the motor with my other foot. I figured it was an issue with the carb but just dealt with it.
I took the Q-jet to get rebuilt since the car completely died on me one time and would not restart (this ended up being due to junk in the needles and seat).
Anyways, when I went to pick up the carb, they guy tells me "I bet your car was stalling when you would come to a stop, huh?" "Yes!" I told him.

Turns out it was a bad float... Float sounds like your issue as well.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Ok after buying the same exact carb at autozone edlebrock 1405 cfm 600, 4bbl quad, and installing it the problem is resoved and fixed, it was the carb more than likely the float anyways, the carb was purchased in june of 1998 so it lasted about 11 years and it just isnt worth rebuilding it when they only cost about 272, with a 10 percent military discount, thanks every1 for the help God Bless.
 
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Badbird
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