You're welcome, RJ. At the time of purchase, a Lunati 20102 solid flat installed straight up.
I would listen to what others suggest on line boring and decking the block. If you lay a straight edge across the block saddles and can insert a 0.001" feeler gauge, then line bore the block. Another check is to lay Plastigauge in the journals with the crank and look at the results. If they are all even, alignment, I believe, would be good. Plus also, if 0.010" is taken off, then a shorter timing chain will need to be bought to keep out the slack. My test is to lay the crank in the block and with no seal, spin the crank by hand. If it continues for another 1.5 turns, I go with it.
Same with decking the block. Check piston height/depth in the block of all cylinders and compare. If you see a 0.005" slope/difference to the other side, then maybe decking should be considered.
I personally leave the block alone. I do remove the dowel pins and shrink the diameter for a slip fit. The purpose of this feature is for me to use a new honing stone and hone the deck smooth and the same to the heads. You'll see the broach marks and see them go away. Now, there is smooth surface for the steel shim head gaskets and no sealer. Steel shim gaskets for the purpose of better heat distribution between the head and block and with the pistons 0.025" depth and a 0.015" thick gasket, gives a quench of 0.040", ideal.
I do balance the assembly, even on a street engine in the daily driver. Well worth the money spent.
As said, these are my thoughts and they have worked for me. I'll get the next round for us and sit back and listen to the pros.
Kindda out of the realm of a trans thread...........As for the 11:1 pump gas ratio, OEM's are doing it, but its computer controlled. I personally shoot for around 9.5-10.5:1. But then, I'm running what I can afford and have in the garage/shed.
