I'm going to use DP48LF ,, I don't have any high build primer here today to apply over it, can I use a self etching primer in a Can over the DP,???.. or is it not compatable,???.. Please help,, I've been working on this car for a long time and I need to protect these bare metal fenders, and I don't want to create problems when time for the paint job..,.. Thanks..
Apoxy Primer Question,, Please Help
gonewacky
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I'm going to use DP48LF ,, I don't have any high build primer here today to apply over it, can I use a self etching primer in a Can over the DP,???.. or is it not compatable,???.. Please help,, I've been working on this car for a long time and I need to protect these bare metal fenders, and I don't want to create problems when time for the paint job..,.. Thanks..
I would shoot the epoxy on the "CLEAN" sanded bare metal. If your outside the epoxy re-coat window when you get the highbuild, just sand the epoxy with 180-220 or so, shoot one more coat of epoxy then the highbuild.
Check the tech sheet for your epoxy for recoat window, sanding, recoating etc...
No need for etching primer at all.
Check the tech sheet for your epoxy for recoat window, sanding, recoating etc...
No need for etching primer at all.
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Only a minimal amount; a dusting if you will. But now you can't topcoat it again with DP products. All the tech info you need is easily found navigating the PPG website. It's all on PDF. If you buy this stuff ask the reps for help. They are supposed to know and give you product tech data. If you don't ask they assume you know what you are doing. Here's a link to get you started. Every manufacturer has all the info you need. You have to research it. https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...hProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=d8c6f682-8348-491d-9c36-2eb5bdf84b61 This is not the home page but you can get to it from here.
I'm not sure why you would want to?? I don't know about the compatability of the products you have.
Etch primer is used by some on bare metal in an effort to prevent rust. It's an "old school" product mainly used back during the laquer days as I understand it.
Epoxy primer is the more "modern" preferred product to use on bare metal and works best on clean bare metal with no other "treatments". If there is no rust, it will seal the metal "air tight" and there will be no rust so there is no need for anything else. The epoxy can then be covered with 2k (highbuild) for block sanding or if the epoxy blocks out good then it can be sealed/based/cleared. Epoxy (reduced) can also be used as a sealer before base.
So using the etch primer over epoxy (whether compatible or not) is a wasted step IMO and could possibly lead to paint failure down the road.
Read this: http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=53&mforum=spi
Sid69Z's.... I know,, But it's Sunday, and I can't get High Build Primer today,, and I have some etching primer here, so I was just trying to save some time.. and I just did'nt know if etching primer would be a good idea or not.. Thanks all for the advice..:beers:
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If Dale is only spot priming bare metal here and there with the etch then he'll be fine. You can't put etch over the DP heavily. The systems don't work like that. You can still pack the car with the 2K. I used variprime for years and never had a problem but use epoxy now because of it's versatility and increased performance. I'm unsure why SPI is all the rage now as opposed to all the other high end products. Is it marketing? I'd like to see/hear some data substantiating it's superiority.
Thats what I'm trying to Avoid... :yes: ,, Like I said before,, I was just curious to see if you could use etch primer over DP, and it would work out okay.... :beers:
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I would wait till tomorow and get the correct products that are compatable to one another.I would just rescuff tomorrow it wont hurt to sit one day long as it doesn't get wet or damp.I would use the etch first which is why its called etch it etches into the metal and let it cure for the directed time and then spray epoxy over entire panel and this is if no plastic work is needed this way will save you some labor time.Are these new parts do they need body work,if they need bodywork I would just etch prime them do bodywork and then epoxy.If they are just spots of bare metal it will be ok to etch and epoxy tomorrow.
I don't think it's marketing because they don't do much of that (comparitivly speaking). I believe it's because they make a good product (I wouldn't call it superior), have the best customer service (can talk to the owner/manufacturer 24/7), and have about the best prices there is. Way cheaper than the big boys.
As far as test data, I know Barry has talked about different tests they run on all their products. I don't know him personally but from what I can tell, I would trust him to be honest about his products at least as much or probably more than the other manufacturers. To get unbiased trustworthy test data on any product is nearly impossible nowdays....they all say their's is the best.
I've used most of the "big name" brands of paint products and I would rate SPI up there with the best of them....not necessarily superior though. For me, the quality, ease of use, customer service & price makes them hard to beat.
Everyone's got their favorites though so whatever works for each individual is what they should use.
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Nope. PPG does not recommend epoxy over etch. It's all on the site and in PDF: One day or one week of bare metal exposed is not going to cause a corrosion issue so severe that you will have a failure. Just do your work and get the right primers. If you need piece of mind then just spot prime with the etch but it's not necessary. I don't think
Dale was going to use etch for a building primer. He was just concerned about bare metal exposure.
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...hProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=50798ced-3499-4eb5-9787-2db7e520df08
NOTE: DPLF must NOT be applied over DPX170 or DPX171
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Yep, cost, customer service and quality are the main factors behind SPI's success. They don't do any marketing as far as I know, it's word of mouth.
Don
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I'm on the east coast. Could their shipping delivery times and charges be competitive with my local suppliers who deliver to my door? I use RM, HOK, Dupont and PPG. Plus I get the perks and freebies of being a long time customer and a 0% charge account for my business. Not doubting their product but need to justify it's purchase.
SPI is located in Georgia, I get shipments to my door in Texas in 2-3 days. There are no shipping charges, the price on the product is what you pay, delivered. You won't get any perks or freebies though......that's one of the ways they keep their prices down.... as explained on their website under Our Goal: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm
Large comanies have large overhead from the bottom to the top.....somebody is paying for that....I choose not to. I work for Dupont (not the paint division) but I don't buy hardly any of the products. The product cost to pay ratio is way off. The waste is tremendous, I see it daily.....I'll stop there before I get worked up. Good products, yes....worth the cost? Not to me. I figure PPG is about the same type company....but I could be wrong.
As for SPI....you might give it a shot, compare it to what your used to and decide for yourself if it's worth using......Barry's a great guy to deal with, give him a call. If it don't work out, at least it didn't cost much...
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I just about fell over when I went to my local supplier to buy a gallon of PPG epoxy. The savings are significant for me using SPI products. Maybe your suppliers give you a better deal but for me it's a no-brainer. I order Monday morning and it's at my door 2-3 days later. Free shipping and no sales tax.
Have you actually compared SPI's prices?
Don
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I don't always use DP for the cost issue. I also use Transtar. I see that SPI Epoxy is $40 cheaper than HOK. I don't use just one product exclusively. And convenience and time coordination sometimes dictate what I get and a job's deadline. Bikes are sometimes a rush and require a 20 hour shift to get the tin done for reassembly. In the summer they have to get done and on the road. I'll try SPI. If I like it's performance I'll use it.
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