Finally have all the pieces to put my new rearend and 4-link setup under the car..........would like to have a drag setup even tho the car will be mainly a weekend cruiser. Anybody have a clue as to what my bar angles need to be?
4-link angles
tilley88
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Finally have all the pieces to put my new rearend and 4-link setup under the car..........would like to have a drag setup even tho the car will be mainly a weekend cruiser. Anybody have a clue as to what my bar angles need to be?
There is no simple answer whatsoever. You need to figure out what the instant center needs to be as well as pinion angle for you particular set up and it really needs to be scaled as well.
But the basic of basic answers is, the bottom bar should be roughly paralell to the ground, car fully loaded with you in it, and the top bar should be higher in the back than in the front, and if you drew an imaginary line paralell to the bottom bar straight out front, and the top bar straight out front, the point they intersect is your instant center, where this point is based on your car will affect how it hits the tires.
My recomendation is get a good book on chassis from Alston or Bickle and read up, they are not simple but once you get a feel for them they work great on the track. If racing is not an issue close will be good for a start, but the best bet is get it close to where you think it should be (always with the driver and fully loaded car) and test at the track to get it right making small changes at a time or you will endlessly chase your tail.
Be aware that with a high powered car the 4 link will do crazy stuff not just on launch but down the track it will steer the car if the bars are wrong, so take it easy.
Good luck with it and do your homework!
But the basic of basic answers is, the bottom bar should be roughly paralell to the ground, car fully loaded with you in it, and the top bar should be higher in the back than in the front, and if you drew an imaginary line paralell to the bottom bar straight out front, and the top bar straight out front, the point they intersect is your instant center, where this point is based on your car will affect how it hits the tires.
My recomendation is get a good book on chassis from Alston or Bickle and read up, they are not simple but once you get a feel for them they work great on the track. If racing is not an issue close will be good for a start, but the best bet is get it close to where you think it should be (always with the driver and fully loaded car) and test at the track to get it right making small changes at a time or you will endlessly chase your tail.
Be aware that with a high powered car the 4 link will do crazy stuff not just on launch but down the track it will steer the car if the bars are wrong, so take it easy.
Good luck with it and do your homework!
Thanks, just lookin for a rough outline so I can first install/weld-up everything and hopefully get it close enuff. There is nothing under the car at this time........I will be building a jig to get the rearend where I want it, then install my 4-link crossmember and brackets accordingly.
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You dont realy need a jig.It can be don by striking lines on the floor.The higher you pu the rails the lower the car will sit.You can get a back half already put together which is alot easier.I purchased mine from Chechered Racing.
![Image]()
You may want to stretch the quarters as well.
![Image]()
You may want to stretch the quarters as well.
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4,280 Posts
Nice work Dave !!!!!!!!!!!You dont realy need a jig.It can be don by striking lines on the floor.The higher you pu the rails the lower the car will sit.You can get a back half already put together which is alot easier.I purchased mine from Chechered Racing.
![Image]()
You may want to stretch the quarters as well.
![Image]()
David F.
My car is already backhalved........just switching over from ladder bar to 4-link. You can see what I'm workin with here.......http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/tilley88/
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4,280 Posts
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Hey guys, total noob here to 4links/ladders bars. I have afew questions. in the first pic i can see holes are drilled to adjust the 4 link bars, but why would they need to be adjusted if you know roughly where they should be placed?You dont realy need a jig.It can be don by striking lines on the floor.The higher you pu the rails the lower the car will sit.You can get a back half already put together which is alot easier.I purchased mine from Chechered Racing.
![Image]()
You may want to stretch the quarters as well.
![Image]()
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10,475 Posts
That's what makes 4 links so good, you have many options and can get the car to hook on any track. That is also the bad part about 4 links they are so adjustable that people get themselves in trouble. They are not that complicated once you read up on them and understand how they work.
Most kits are going to have more holes than needed because the manufacture does not know what the specific application will call for. The kits are generic in terms of the brackets, etc.. The same kit for a Camaro will be the same kit for a 55 Chevy or a truck, in terms of the brackets, this help keep tooling and inventory under control.
Most kits are going to have more holes than needed because the manufacture does not know what the specific application will call for. The kits are generic in terms of the brackets, etc.. The same kit for a Camaro will be the same kit for a 55 Chevy or a truck, in terms of the brackets, this help keep tooling and inventory under control.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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