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Using tape to secure lower RS moldings

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MissionCritical

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 68 RS, which uses the 3-piece lower rocker moldings. The car has been newly painted but I/body guy never drilled the holes for the front fender RS molding. Due to not being able to get to the back of the clips on this front piece and since I don't already have holes, I was wondering if anyone has tried using molding tape to secure this piece. I know the back side does not have much of a mounting surface, but I may be able to work a piece of flat aluminum plate in. Would that work ?

-Kevin
 
#2 ·
Kevin are you talking about the 3 piece rocker molding set that goes on the bottom of the door or the front fender RS emblems? Some guys have used the tape for the front fender emblems. I am not sure how that worked out. As for the 3 piece rocker molding. When I did mine (front fender piece of rocker moding) I just drilled the hole holding the molding in place, lining it up with the door piece that has the studs. The rocker molding bolt kit has screws that go into the front and rear rocker moldings. The door molding is with studs and I think maybe two screws. It has been a year since I did mine and was a little worried about drilling into a brand newly painted car but it all worked out. They do sell a template for rocker molding that is around $20.00. Hope that this helped a little. Oh yeah this was on a '67 too

Brandan-
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks. Yes, I'm referring to the 3-piece lower moldings. However, on a '67 they are the wide version. On a '68 they are about 1.25" wide and sort of a triangle shape and hollow. There isn't much of a back side. Originally, they are held in place with a combination of push-in clips and I think one clip with a speed nut on the back. I have my original clips but the dumb aftermarket pieces for the fenders don't work with the original clips. The replacement clips are a real PITA to work with. I used my original clips on the door sections, and for the quarter sections, the replacement clips are OK as you can use pliers to pull and work them from the back by getting your hands down where the quarter glass goes. But the fronts are a one-way trip since you can't get the clips out once in without pulling the fender loose, and I didn't want to do that.

I don't see any downside to trying the tape, even if it falls off I don't think it can damage the car....?

-Kevin
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Mike:

Are you saying that you attach the clips with pop rivets, then tape the paint, then slide the molding (presumably from front fender back to the door) onto the clips ? Interesting idea...

I have not put my fender (wheel) moldings on, so that might work. I also think that instead of three clips, the front molding should work with two.

-Kevin
 
#6 ·
I don't see how pop rivets will work, but if they do I would like to see it.

The 68 RS molding is way different than any 67 or 69 molding, so if you havn't done it with 68 moldings, the method may not work. The spring steel clips go into the molding first, then snap into one of the 24 or so big holes you have to drill, usually into fresh bodywork, so I can see why one would want to get it right the first time.

I have a new set waiting to go on mine. I just hate those reproduction clips and the fact they where not fitted before bodywork was completed.

Image
 
#7 ·
I've used black RTV to hold various trim pieces on when I didn't want to drill holes. Not sure if it will work in this instance, but it will conform to irregular shapes and fill in the gaps. I hold the piece in place with blue 3M painter's tape until the RTV cures.
 
#8 ·
I heard the repro clips dont hold the moulding well.
 
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#9 ·
68 Ragtop said:
I don't see how pop rivets will work, but if they do I would like to see it.

The 68 RS molding is way different than any 67 or 69 molding, so if you havn't done it with 68 moldings, the method may not work. The spring steel clips go into the molding first, then snap into one of the 24 or so big holes you have to drill, usually into fresh bodywork, so I can see why one would want to get it right the first time.

I have a new set waiting to go on mine. I just hate those reproduction clips and the fact they where not fitted before bodywork was completed.

Image
Click to expand...

I did not know what the clips looked like. So pop rivets wont work.

The tape was so you could mark them in the right place and when you drill you wont damage the paint. I dont know but you might be able to slide them on.
 
#10 ·
Did you try Auveco? They are after all, one of the world's largest body fastener suppliers. We had cabinets full of them. Pehaps they will have a clip with better performance. Your local jobber can get them, as they do not provide sales to the general public. You can view the catalog in PDF. E-bay searches will uncover NOS clips at times. And while I do not recommend the double faced tape route, that would be accomplished by filling the back of the molding to provide more adhesive surface area. Simply relying on the edge of the molding for strength would prove inadequate and seeing the tape would look hack.
 
#11 ·
I ran into the same problem after I painted my 68 RS and did tape them on, who wants to drill newly painted surfaces?
Used 1/4 " 2 sided 3M tape, A strip of it on each side of the moulding edges and you MUST use 3M's Adhesion Promoter both on the moulding and the body. I work in a body shop and this is how all the late model mouldings are installed although they usually use wider tape.
They've been on for a year with no problem.
Rich
 
#12 ·
MRRICH said:
I ran into the same problem after I painted my 68 RS and did tape them on, who wants to drill newly painted surfaces?
Used 1/4 " 2 sided 3M tape, A strip of it on each side of the moulding edges and you MUST use 3M's Adhesion Promoter both on the moulding and the body. I work in a body shop and this is how all the late model mouldings are installed although they usually use wider tape.
They've been on for a year with no problem.
Rich
Click to expand...
Well I stand corrected then. I was not aware the molding backs provided a wide enough surface for tape to be trusted. I've got over 20 years in the bus also.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thanks MrRich, I'll give that a try, as drilling holes just to put those sorry non-original clips into did not make any sense. I may even put on my rear pieces like that too as I don't like how the clips fit. The door pieces fit great with my original clips.

-Kevin
 
#16 ·
MRRICH said:
Sauron67MM
I hate to drill, & I will admit it took some time to get the tape on the moulding edges straight but with the adhesion promoter it worked well. I had the clips but opted not to use them.
Click to expand...
Nope, your not. Many do not realize the importance of proper application of tape because of unfamiliarity. I've seen a lot of moldings falling off because of poor application. Double-faced tape is strong and if used correctly will hold well.
 
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