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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am buying a house that comes with a 50x30 detached shop, or maybe I should say I am buying a shop that comes with a house. Anyways, the shop is your typical sheetmetal building around a wooden frame with concrete floor. It does have a heater/electricity, but there is absolutely no insulation in it.

I am wondering what folks have used to insulate(standard fiberglass rolled insulation or are there any new products out there) and what they have used to finish the garage walls.

Do most folks sheet rock or is there some other material folks have used for walls?


Thanks in advance,

Lee
 
#3 ·
I'm using rolled up sheet insulation in mine, R-13? or something like that. I also decided to use OSB for the interior walls instead of sheetrock for many reasons. I can hang things easier anywhere on them w/out worrying so much about stud location, and the panels are removable if I decide I need inside the walls to do more electrical work, and also for simple rigidity if I slam into the wall with something I won't have to worry about how easy it is to put a hole in sheet rock, and finally, it's cheaper than sheetrock. I put it up and then painted it white for brightness.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Painted, I think the OSB works fine for a working shop. If you're looking for form/looks over function, then keep in mind it's not a really smooth finish and the joints will always be visible since taping and bedding them wouldn't work like sheetrock. One side of the OSB is smother than the other, I put that side out.
 
#7 ·
Construction in the US is a bit different to NZ
If dont get snow or real cold winters I just lined with siver insulation paper and 4 mm 1200mm x 2400 ply sheets screwed so if needed can be removed easy
Mayce to add built in cupboard/shelves etc later
And do the ceiling the same way

If I live down sth where they have heavy frosted snow and stuff, would put pink batts in the cavity...pink batts in NZ are a fiberglass insulation panels.

"rock board" I think that is what we call gib board??? gypsum betyween 2 layers of cardboard..that just on its own is quite a good insulator if you seal all the gaps
 
#10 ·
when i built my building i used tyvec then sprayed foam but could only get about 3" to stick to the walls so i put up the drywall then whet back and filled the 8 1/2" wall cavitiy up with celulose put 4ft in the attic it seems to have worked great i live in northern ohio i heat with propane i have a 50ft radiaint tube heater i keep the barn 55 deg. all winter and use approx. 200 gal. a year good luck


thanks tom
 
#12 ·
I got a quote for insulating my 30 x 48 pole barn and they now have available 8' wide x 10' tall fiberglass batts of insulation in 6" thickness. They come in a roll that you just unclip the ties and roll them up the wall into place between posts. This makes the job alot easier, not nearly so much framing required unless you need it for shelving etc. Call your lumber yards and insulation companies till you find one that knows about this. It will save a bunch of time and money.
I wont get to do my barn till next fall but thats what I will use. :)
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
Hey, thanks for all the feed back. Right now, the ceiling is open, so I need to address that too. The joys of home ownership. The shop is in Kentucky, so I don't think I need to get as extreme as the one in Ohio, but one never knows. I like the OSB idea, sheet rock has never been my friend.

Thanks, again.

Lee
 
#14 ·
My garage is all metal and the insulation was put in during construction. The insulation type has a white vinyl backing that you see inside so its real clean looking (and white). Like sheetrock though, its very easy to poke holes into, so I have a lower panel of 3/4" plywood around the perimeter. The advantages of 3/4" plywood is you can hang anything on it and its straight, you don't need studs except at the joints. The disadvantage is that it can be expensive, but shop around. I also painted it.

In my paint booth portion, I had it sprayed with a foam that is exactly like the type you get from the foam insulation cans (the stuff you don't want to get on your hands). They make two types and they can be expensive too, but its a much better insulator. Put another way, your garage becomes like an ice chest from an insulation standpoint. One of the spray in foams can also be painted. If you ever go that route, look at a job first. The only way to hold the insulation up on the roof might be to use chicken wire or something.

-Kevin
 
#15 ·
My pole barn ceiling insulation will first be heavy clear poly for vapor barier stapled into the bottom of the rafters, then a strong poly netting material they nail under the poly film, then they blow in white fiberglass insulation up in the rafters. The netting helps hold the fiberglass up inside the rafters without sagging. Then you can put OSB or other material up there, maybe sheetrock in 5/8" but then you will have to have extra studding between rafters to screw into as well.
 
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#16 ·
I have a 44x80 radiant floor heat shop. We thought long and hard about this before we proceded with insulation. The spray on was my first choice going about 1.5-2 inches thick between the stud wall. The cost was just too much. I ended up with fiberglass bats in the walls and ceiling and then blown in insulation in the ceiling about 16 inches thick on top of the fiberglass. The wall boarding was discussed at length, "to death". I finally decided to go with green sheetrock on the bottom 4' and regular sheetrock the remainder of the 16' walls. The ceiling is exterior grade "Pole barn tin" in white. The theory behind this was, The sheet rock gave me more insulating value and a great deal more sound dampening. I primed and painted the sheetrock in a high grade exterior semigloss paint after applying a knock down texture. In this big a building sound will carry terrible without some kind of sound dampner. The ceiling being steel helped with weight lode on the rafters, and is very easy to clean, which is done once a year due to diesel soot and regular dust accumulation. This is a farm shop so it seesregular diesel exhaust. The green sheetrock on the bottom 4' is due to the amount of machinery washing that takes place in the shop. I have been in many many steel interior shops and the sound level is terrible you can hardly talk across the shop to someone much less have a radio playing, and start pounding on something, ear plugs are a must. just my two cents. Eric
 
#17 ·
X2 on the 1/2" OSB. I used it and rolls of R13 and don't have any issues with heating/cooling. Originally I had sheetrocked it, and then took it down like 6 weeks later because the sheetrock was getting beat all to hell from bumping into it.
 
#18 ·
OSB (oriented strand board) and plywood are good for a shop, but if it is attached to a dwelling, you have to make sure it does not violate the fire safety codes. Wish I had insulation in my garage. :( The builders put up 5/8 rock (walls/ceiling) before I could say anything :sad:
 
#19 ·
5/8 sheet rock is code for walls of a garage that is adjacent to a home. Plain OSB wont meet that code at all, it has to be 5/8 rock.
Then you can nail OSB or plywood over the rock if you want for a hanging surface. :D
 
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#20 ·
I did my walls w/sheetrockover R-13 rolled insulation. For the ceiling I used white ribbed metal like they use on commercial bldgs, I put up sheet plastic on trusses first for a vappor barrier and then put up the metal, after the metal was up I used blown in inulation aprox 6" thick. The metal reflects alot of light and was an easy install although a bit more pricey.
 
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