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First time, just did it, about 24 hrs total. If I did it again 16 hrs, and
if I put it in while building the car maybe 8-10 hrs. Read the book a
couple of times then start. I thought the hardest part was taking
your dash apart. Good luck, these units work great.
 
I made brackets to hold the condensor and evaporator that took 6 hours.The bracket that holds the condensor also holds my trans cooler.I tooked the lines to a local hose and coupling supply to get them crimped which was about twohrs waiting for the guy to get them done.I think it is not all the same senario.
 
I would say 15 to 20 hours and a 12 pac. My dash and front cap were off. I did it in sections, the condensor part one day and then the evaporator another etc. I also polished all the lines. Read and understand the directions and call VA if you do not understand they are very helpful. The part I did not understand was the directions for the evaporator were a bit confusing but VA explained it very well. I also changed my mind how to reroute the system to under the fender, under the core support to the drivers side condensor to hide the hoses as much as possible and VA helped with the conversion to that arrangement. I don't have it completed yet as I switched to working on the interior. Next the electric headlights!!!!
 
i am in the process right now. I did the interior "gutting" converted the controller,than for a break did the condensor...now i am fitting the hoses and getting it to look nice. Not really happy how it LOOKS it fits but low marks for how the cover and such looks. But is all working out. PS i did remove the fender ,it is easier with the fender out of the way. Hope this helps . Wes
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Wes, I was just going to post that very question on how necessary it is to pull the fender. By the way Wes where did you get your system? I priced them out locally and could not believe the mark-up people were adding so I went over the boarder to get mine.

Thanks
 
I went threw Frank at Prodigy ,GREAT PRICE. AWSOME SERVICE.!! In my opinion ,i spent more time thinking about pulling fenderoff,than doing it.!! I used my o.e. heater box and ran the hoses behind it. I also changed the number 10 hose off the evap to rubber as well as the 6 hose. I ran the hose right off the front off evap(modified the Tubes)and i ran the a.c. lines over to the tulip and out the blower motor hole. Wes
 
I did mine about 12 years ago. I did not have to take the fender off for the kit they had back then, not sure if they made any changes. The one thing I did change was I picked up original a/c center duct work and vent to keep the dash looking original. My kit had a cheap aftermarket center vent.
 
I did the install about 2 years ago. It was really easy, just time consuming. Probably about 15 hours total. I removed the passenger seat, removed the heater box and control cables and modified the controls with the kit. I did not have to remove the fender to remove the outside housing and fan. I had the hood off and the engine out at the time. I loosened (not removed) the fender bolt on the firewall the top bolt on the cowl and removed the lower inner fender to subframe brace. Then I just rotated the box in a counter clockwise direction. I lifted the fender a little and inner fender had to flex a little to get it out. Then I installed the duct hoses and then installed the evaporator. I moved to the front and installed the condensor. Because I was using a custom setup, I moved a portion of the cars wiring harness to allow for left hand alternator and right hand compressor mounting. I then stopped and installed the crate engine and TKO. Once that was completed, I mounted the alternator and compressor, installed the wiring and hard lines and then fabricated the Aeroquip stainless steel flex lines. My best advice is to take your time and test fit everything. Measure three or four times, cut or drill once.
 
I did the install about 2 years ago. It was really easy, just time consuming. Probably about 15 hours total. I removed the passenger seat, removed the heater box and control cables and modified the controls with the kit. I did not have to remove the fender to remove the outside housing and fan. I had the hood off and the engine out at the time. I loosened (not removed) the fender bolt on the firewall the top bolt on the cowl and removed the lower inner fender to subframe brace. Then I just rotated the box in a counter clockwise direction. I lifted the fender a little and inner fender had to flex a little to get it out. Then I installed the duct hoses and then installed the evaporator. I moved to the front and installed the condensor. Because I was using a custom setup, I moved a portion of the cars wiring harness to allow for left hand alternator and right hand compressor mounting. I then stopped and installed the crate engine and TKO. Once that was completed, I mounted the alternator and compressor, installed the wiring and hard lines and then fabricated the Aeroquip stainless steel flex lines. My best advice is to take your time and test fit everything. Measure three or four times, cut or drill once.

Pretty much the same here , I spent some time with the engine compartment bulkhead cover, I did not like what Vintage sent me. I got a blank cover and made my own hose routings for Ac and heater. I finally went to a manual heater valve as the vacumn type seems to stick every year going to winter.
My hoses were long enough so I ran my them along below the crossmember then up the the compressor. Running the compressor and p/s off a dual belt set up straight off the crank.
I am running the bbc 23" 4 row core radiator with a 7 blade fan and clutch.
 
I installed mine last year and found that following the sequence in the instructions worked great. I tried loosening the bolts on the fender, etc. but could not get the blower motor off without removing the fender. Once off it also allowed me to attach the block off plate with rivets which I like better then the sheet metal screws supplied. Read the instructions carefully a couple of times, they have the order pretty well worked out. I was very impressed with the fit of all the major components. The center dash vent is kind of cheap as noted above and I don't think they give you enough of the flexible ducting to connect the vents so I may get more.
 
Mine was trial and error, starting with the measurement I took with an old belt cut. I picked up a coupla belts at 1/2 inch intravals and got the Alt. PS and AC where I wanted it. Take into consideration your valve cover height in relation to the AC condensor and making sure it is not tilted beyound 3 oclock
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Fight to get the fender off take out everything on the firewall open the box containing the evaporator box only to find out they shipped me the kit for a 69! They are just about impossible to get a hold of on a phone.
 
Discussion starter · #19 · (Edited)
Actually Frank I did buy it from you in a round about way thru Bob at Camaro Specialties. I finally got a hold of Roy and he is working on getting it switched out. The only thing is I do not want to drive back to Buffalo drop it off. I figure its their fault the box is marked 67/68 Camaro and when I opened it up it was for a 69. Apparently some guy in NC has mine. All I opened was the bag with the install manual and at first thought it was just the wrong install instructions but looking at the evap case I realized it was for a 69.

I am suppose to hear back from them Monday.
 
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