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Melrose RS

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 327 steel crank that cooked a set of rod bearings due to an oil pump failure on initial startup. This happened many years ago. There was copper left on the crank from the dead bearings. I remember using some emory cloth and the copper came off.

Can this crank be reused or is it toast? I think it was .010/.010 to start with when I bought it from PAW.

I'm thinking the crank is much harder than the bearings so I could reuse it with some machine work. True?

Thanks.
 
I think as much as .030 under on the rods or the mains is fine. Ask your machinist. Large journal steel 3.25 cranks don't grow on trees.
Yes they do except for the steel part, get a crank out of a 307 (same stroke as the 327) they are dime dozen because no one wants them.

BTW: The 307 is 283 bore with a 327 stoke.
 
IIRC the 307 cranks are cast and the forged steel are used in 327 vettes 68 and up. Mine is forged.
The point I was making. The 327 became large jounnal in 68 (67?) and was discontinued in 69. The steel versions are scarce.
 
Darn right them Medium Journal (Considering the 400 SBC) 68 327 OEM Forged Cranks are RARE and Great for a Hi-Winding mill - If you can safe it - Do it ;o)

I got one in a 4 Bolt 010 11.25:1 SFT Block with Scat 4340 Rods and Shaft Rockers on Grumpy Speced 281 2.02/1.6 Castings 750/Edelbrock RPM - It will do 8 Grand and put out as about much Hp that you can get out of a 327 on Gas. Runs like 302 on Steroids.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Re: 327 large journal steel crank- did I toast it?

Right now I have the crank in a 4 bolt .030 over 350 shortblock with forged flat tops and a 292H comp cam. No heads. I'm going to tear it all down and go through it before I attempt to use it.

When the startup catastrophe happened, it was in a different block. The connecting rods got blue on the big end from the heat of the bearings getting cooked. Is that cause for alarm? Should I trash can them or is there something the machinist can do to determine if they are damaged?
 
I don't know if you are referring to OEM Stock Medium Journal Rods or After Market 4340 Rods. A Stock Cast 327 Crank with OEM Rods will easily do 6800 rpm. The purpose of the Forged Crank is RPM to buzz you by 6800 and possibly 8000 rpm in which case you also require Forged 4340 Rods and Forged Pistons.

Stock Large Journal Rods are Pressed Pinned and Heated to over something like 800 Degrees F to install the Pins and Blue. I can't really say if the Caps Blued would be more concern then that they are probably out of round after your incident.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I bought all the crank/rods/pistons as a set from PAW about 20 years ago. Now I'm just looking to build up an engine I can have fun with without risking the health of my born-with 327. The rods are stockers with ARP bolts IIRC. 6,800rpms would definitely be enough for the streets where I live. :D
 
Well if 6800 rpm is all you need then a cheap 68/69 307 or 327 Cast Crank will do and you can sell that Forging for Fair Buck to pay for the Machining and Gaskets and if your running Hydraulic Lifters you can't get much by 6500 rpm anyway.

But that OEM Forged Crank makes the difference between a 330 Hp/6500 rpm and an 425+ Hp/8000 rpm 327 taking consideration to: Static Compression, Cam, Valve Train.... etc and MONEY.

Nothing sounds like a 327 at 8G's - Not even a 302. I Road Race and you if heard my Down Shifts from 7g's, it's not the motor as much as the clutch staying together or sucking the throttle plates into the intake. It's almost impossible with a MK IV but I do it anyway.

My opinion is that you are pushing the limits of weight Vs volume metric pumps at anything over 460 cubes, for my Ride, and my heart belongs to the 327 (Aside form the Hi-Tech Engineering GM has today, the 327 offers the Most Rev's, the Most Hp per Cubic inch/Weight of any ENGINE GM ever produced for the Public at no Extra Cost ;o)

The demise of the Over Squared 327 being dismantled by GM is that it ran rich at idle and could not NOT pass the Smog EGR Devices imposed by USA Gov't STD's in 70. Canadian STD's where softer and the 327 in our Poncho with TH400's and 12 Bolts where sadly the LAST of the 327's with the "ASTRO FLOW" Decal on the Air Breather and the reason why ORIGINAL Beaumont's and Acadian's are sought after by enthusiasts (However CDN Poncho Sport Pkgs did come Optional 396 and 427 ASTRO-JET Decals in that Era which American's never saw).

Just a little RANT about 327 History and 291/292 Turbo-Flow's with the 68/69/70(CDN), Medium Journal Forged 4672 Crank (there is another # which escapes me and Mortec has become CRAP - This is L79 365 Hp Makings, whether you use the 2 or 4 Bolt 010 block replacement over the 2 bolt, if not for the purpose to mount as Vette Windage Tray and it was all Stock, Over the Counter, back in the Day, including a Holly Spread Bore 650 Dp 12R-5395B to fit the 6283751 Cast Rochester Quadrajet 4 BB Intake. Want to argue Please Do = 350Hp 2.02/1.6's 291's or NOT and if you want my Specs you had better Board me for a WEEK and I will show you how to add another 1000 rpm & 120 HP to the 327 with STK GM Parts (If you can find them today) After all the 70 350 LT1 was the most Powerful FT SBC Enigine built or was it a 68 L79 at 375 Hp - Did they Exist - My Dad had a Brown 68 4 Dr Sedan Strato Chief/TH400/3.31 12 Bolt Posi - NO the intake was not Alu and did not have the Flagged Alu Covers but it had a Forged Crank (which I still use today), Holley 650Dp/751 Intake, 1.94/1.55 291 Turbo Flow Heads with a 9.5:1 Static, 330 Hp, HFT CAM. HUMM! - What a car to drive as a TEEN - I switched him to Volvo's ;o)

Hey! Back in 74 nothing could touch the Volvo 140 or Toyota Crown. The Muscle ERA had ENDED. That Volvo and Toyota were indeed Very FAST.

You want Power, Revs, Dependability with a 4 Spd OD and 3.90 POSI - Just give me a 68 Volvo 123SS 2 Dr Coupe with a Dual SU B20 or that 74 with the Mechanical Lamba FI but them SOHC 6 Cly Toyota Crowns where AWESOME - The USA didn't contend with the Early Crowns like we Canadians had too.
 
Tom,
The only way to know is to have the crankshaft magnafluxed by a crank grinding shop. I think they make main bearings to at least .040 and rod bearings to at least .050 for that crank, so as long as it is not owrn past that, and magnafluxes ok, yo should be good to go.

As far as the rods go, same deal ... have them magnafluxed. But to be honest with you, if the big end got blue, they are probably so distorted that it is not worth trying to fix them, if they are not cracked.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys.

Bill, what approximately would be the cost of magnafluxing the rods and crank?

Is it more cost effective to just replace these rods with similar ones?

To be clear, the the crank was newly machined .010/.010 when I built the engine and the damage happened on the very first fire up.

Thank you!
 
Here in my shop in Minnesota we get $30 to clean and wet mag the crank, $5 each for the rods. Regrind and polish SBC crank is $80. The steel 327 cranks are around but scarce. The best one is the 1130 which is the nitrided HP version used in the L79's.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Here in my shop in Minnesota we get $30 to clean and wet mag the crank, $5 each for the rods. Regrind and polish SBC crank is $80. The steel 327 cranks are around but scarce. The best one is the 1130 which is the nitrided HP version used in the L79's.
Thanks :thumbsup:
 
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