Valve Adjusting Method

Myfirst 69SS · Mar 27, 2011

I plan on re-adjusting my valves this week, I have flat tappet hydraulic lifters. Is this still the best method below?

Valve Adjustment Procedure

1. Valves can be set on a hot or cold engine. A cold engine is a lot more comfortable to work on. Major camshaft manufacturers recommend setting valves cold, to avoid erroneous adjustments on lifters that may be "pumped up" If you are setting valves on a fresh engine that has not been run, everything should be well lubricated before you begin.
2. Remove both valve covers and remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn over. Also, If you are setting valves on all cylinders, it is generally easier and less confusing to just loosen all of the rocker arm adjustment nuts before you begin. This also allows for all of the internal lifter plungers to return to their "home" position.
3. Using a long handled ratchet or breaker bar attached to the crank bolt, turn the engine over in the clockwise direction.

A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.
B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.

1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the slightest bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn.

C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve. You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the same intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters are at the base circle of the cam and that there is no additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point.
D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.

4.Re-install your valve covers and your valve adjustment procedure is finished

Melrose RS · Mar 27, 2011

Just did mine hot/ running using oil control clips and an old valve cover with the top cut off. No sweat, just don't try it without the oil control clips, Jegs $12.

Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide

satz28 · Mar 28, 2011

Now you should measure the lash when it's cold so you don't have to do it hot.

Nashville Beth · Mar 27, 2011

If you have an experienced touch you can adjust them cold. It's easy to overtighten the adjusting nut.

I like to do them hot, but you need tools like these rocker arm clips:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1015/

And use an old valve cover with the top cut off to keep oil from getting everywhere !

zdld17 · Mar 27, 2011

I will probably get hammered for this but this is the way I do it after motor is warmed up.

Its basically one up / one down with lifter away from the open or close ramp. I use a remote starter and watch the open /close cycle on a cly.
Once I can see the rocker arm come off the closed ramp, I back off the adjuster nut and spin the push rod with my fingers, slowly turn back down 1/8 -1/4 turn after I feel a drag on the push rod spin between lifter cup and rocker arm pocket. I repeat the process for the next valve on the same cly.

There can be a lot of science to this process but its worked for me for the last 50 years on a hyd cam.

On cold motors, I adjust to get running then go back on hot shut down.

DjD · Mar 27, 2011

Just a few comments...

Hyd's can be set cold, the manufactures preload recomendations typically are for a cold engine...

Myfirst 69SS said:
I plan on re-adjusting my valves this week, I have flat tappet hydraulic lifters. Is this still the best method below?

Why do you want to re-adjust them? If it aint broke, don't fix it! Hyds are a set them and forget them deal...

...snip...

1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the slightest bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn.[/LEFT]

#1 - rolling or spinning the pushrod is not very accurate unless you have a lot of experience at it, you can put a lot of pre-load on a pushrod and still spin it. To find zero lash; lift up and down on the pushrod as you tighten the adjuster. When it just stops moving you are at zero lash...

#2 - At this point tighten the adjuster the amount the cam and lifter manufacture recomends. For stock, from GM cams the books say 1 full turn of preload. Comp Cams and many others say 1/2 turn of preload. Unless you are at the track trying to milk every ounce out of your mill no need to play with more or less preload...

Fred Ficarra · Mar 27, 2011

Mark as Dennis explained, in your case why bother? Does your engine have a miss? Is a valve clattering? If no, forgetaboutit.

Myfirst 69SS · Mar 28, 2011

Getting a bit of valvetrain noise so I figure re-adjusting is a good place to start.

Melrose RS · Mar 27, 2011

Just swapped my cam, set lifters for initial startup exactly like Dennis explained. About 100 miles later set them hot running, come to find out some were tighter than others. Immediately noticed a smoother idle.

Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide

Myfirst 69SS · Mar 28, 2011

BTW, I know hot and running is preffered by many. My father, a mechanic for 50 years swears by it but it makes a damn mess even with the cut up valve cover. I really do not want oil all over my freshly painted exhaust manifolds.

Nashville Beth · Mar 28, 2011

Mark,
That's what the clips are for. They block the oil from spraying around.

With the right setup, it's a clean situation.

keithl1967 · Mar 28, 2011

not to hijack the thread...I know that hydraulic cams shouldn't need re-adjustment...bu how often shoudl I re-adjust a MECHANICAL cam?

Fred Ficarra · Mar 28, 2011

It depends.

Honest.
A new install needs it real soon, maybe after the first full warm up. Then maybe once a year. How do you drive it? I didn't touch my SR all season drag racing. The engine was never street driven, only raced. Valves this winter? Perfect.:thumbsup:
One more thing. My engine has aluminum heads and is a BBC. Trust me. The only way you want to check the lash is cold. If the hot lash is around .015 then the cold lash is about .009. At least with aluminum. Iron heads? No idea. Never done it.

joe clance · Mar 28, 2011

if it works, dont fix it!

fatblock · Mar 28, 2011

Mark...the EO/IC method is fool proof imo.Works with oem grinds right up to the nastiest of solid roller shafts.Pretty much insures that you are setting lash or preload on the cams base circle.Hope this helps to answer your question.

Myfirst 69SS · Mar 28, 2011

Update: pulled valve covers adjusted one side, got to the other side to find a bad lifter. With the proper pre-load set I can push the rocker arm down compressing the lifter. Great intake needs to come off.

Here is the question what lifters should I get? I am not sure what cam is in the car now but I guess near stock.

Nashville Beth · Mar 28, 2011

I would only replace the bad lifter.
Use break-in lube on it and follow the normal break-in procedure.

mark191 · Mar 28, 2011

If one lifter takes a s#$t I would be afraid of another doing the same. Replace em all and as stated by Beth follow proper break-in. I know people have had some issues with comp cams but I have never had a problem with their stuff. Jmo:beers:

Myfirst 69SS · Mar 28, 2011

I will be changing all, don't want to put it all back together to have another crap out. Without knowing cam specs what lifters should I use.

BTW, is there a way to measure came specs while in the car, that may be a really dumb question but I am curious.

jr68 · Jun 7, 2011

Myfirst 69SS said:
BTW, is there a way to measure came specs while in the car, that may be a really dumb question but I am curious.

I believe you can get the specs on the manufacturer website. I know I did with my Crane cam after I lost my card.

97Z4C · Jun 7, 2011

i have never adjusted valves running since i was a 14 year old--with a stock or street cam--you can adjust all your valves hot or cold --get it on #1 you can then adjust half your valves on #1 and then roll to #6 and do the other half--let me see if i can remember which to adj --there is web site that can tell you--on #1 adj #1 in & ex #3 ex 5&7 in-- i think #2 in 4 ex and #8 in-then roll motor over to #6 adj #6 in & ex #3 in 5 & 7 ex and the rest on 2 4 and 8 -i might be just oposite on 2 4 and 8 but you will know if the valve is open or closed--1/2 turn past zero lash- you can always know if your on #1 or #6 with timing tab on zero by --if your on #1 #3 intake will be open-this is how GM states to adj valves and working at a dealer for 16 yrs and 30yrs exsperience , i havent had to remove a valve cover yet to re adjust

Everett#2390 · Jun 7, 2011

EO-IC as said, is foolproof for any engine.
I have also tried Darrell's method and it has worked also.
Here it is: Comes as a sticky decal: I have one on my toolbox,

Chev & Mopar engines have the same firing order.
I have P/N at home, in case anybody asks for it.
It's written down, you don't have to remember, just got to remember where you put the chart........

Valve Adjusting Method

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities