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no69for76

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I am hoping someone can help me post a write up for setting up a 95 under hood relay/fuse box for a first gen with pictures and diagrams. I still need to finish some of the pics with instructions but everthing will be ready by weeks end. Thank you and good day.

Tony
no69for76@netzero.com
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I am setting up a relay/fuse box in the engine bay from a 95 Camaro to run power windows, power door locks, ect. but I don't know how to post pictures and some diagrams to help readers with the install. I need to finish adding some text to some of the pics which I should have completed the weekend. I just need a quick tutorial or maybe I can e-mail what I have to someone who can post it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Here is a narrative of what I have so far. I have about ten more pictures and four diagrams. Thanks for the help.

Hello All,

My name is Tony and I am currently restoring my 67 to a RestoMod. I am upgrading to power windows, power door locks, power antenna, electric fan, and relay headlights. I was searching for someone who had done the upgrades and had a nice way to set up/hide the relays but I could not locate a write up so I decided to make my own. Here goes nothing.

I started with a trip to my local u-pull and found two under hood relay/fuse boxes off a 95 Camaro at $7.00 each. It took me all of ten minutes to remove each of them. I also found some junction blocks in an 80’s Blazer. Remember, I want to keep the wires organized, hidden and factory in appearance. The box measures 3”x8”x3” which will fit nicely in between the drivers side front fender well and headlight. It seems that the area is just perfect for the box. Also, I will place the windshield wiper reservoir right above the box which will hide it even more, however I will need to remove it (two screws) if I ever need to access the fuses or relays. The fuse box holds 12 fuses and 8 relays more than enough for what I need. I dismantled the boxes to see how they were set up. You will need a very small flat head screw driver to pop out the terminals from the top. It took me a little while to figure it out but once I did it was easy from there. It will help if you already have the terminals (PepBoys part# 85342) to see how they snap in. If you destroy one don’t worry about it you can harvest another from the spare fuse box (better to have two than one). The next step gave me a headache trying to figure out the wiring. The wiring for the relays was mixed 12 to 20 gauge and I wanted to run all 12 gauge to avoid any problems. Once I rewired everything to 12 gauge I labeled the wires for future reference (relay 1/fuse 1, relay 2/fuse 2) and drew up a diagram. The main red wire is my power in from the battery to the fuse then to the relay. The yellow goes out from the relay to the accessory. The blue wire goes out from the relay out to the switched source + and of course the black wire goes to ground. I will be getting power from the battery to a 20 amp circuit breaker, to the junction block, to the fuses then to the relay then to the accessory. I have included pictures and diagrams to help you out. Everything is in place and all I need to do is wire the accessories as I go along. I hope this write up helps someone out and if anyone has any positive or negative feedback please feel free to let me have it. Hey, I gave it a shot.

If you’re wondering how I mounted the windshield reservoir I used a piece of 1” angle iron drilled a couple holes and tapped them so I wouldn’t have to fumble around with nuts. Thank you and good day.

Relay terminal 30 - (red wire) fused positive from battery
Relay terminal 87 - (yellow wire) goes to accessory
Relay terminal 86 - (blue wire) goes to switched positive
Relay terminal 85 - (black wire) goes to ground
Relay terminal 87a - not used

Sincerely,
Tony
no69for76@netzero.com
 
Sooo, this is a fuse sub panel that you intend to use for regular (PW, PDLs, etc.) accessory items?

You might be making this harder than it needs to be as that stuff already exists or is just a single accessory power feed wire (horn relay to firewall for PT and PW). I'm trying to think of what underhood use the panel could be good for, but all I can think of is fuel injection.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I just want to keep everything clean and some what hidden. I didn't want to have all the relays on the firewall or radiator support in plan view with all the wires showing. Everything will be in the new fuse box (relays, fuses, wires). I don't think the horn relay can handle the power windows, door locks, fan, antenna and headlights. May be wrong but what do you think?
 
PW uses the same relay as the PT on the firewall (there's two little indentations so you know where to drill the holes for mounting the single small relay) and its fed by a single wire from the horn relay. PW does require another relay behind the driver's kick panel, but that one's completely hidden. Unless I'm missing something, a single wire is pretty elegant and easier to run and conceal than a sub panel.

The horn relay is essentially a chunk of metal (except the horn relay part, of course) that acts as a buss for distributing 12V under the hood. Unless you find a way to melt the buss (it would take a pretty big short), this factory location for power has worked pretty good at supplying engine compartment power for PW, AC, PT, etc. for over 44 years with no trouble. I'm still using my original horn relay.

Also, if you tucked your sub panel out of sight, wouldn't that make it harder to check the fuses and make your connections?

As for power relays for electric fans, I just use the regular engine driven thermostatic fan and a shroud. There are no electrical parts to fail on the cooling system and the car runs great in FL with the AC on in all sorts of traffic and heat.
 
Tony, Nice Job! excellent contribution to the forum, true hotrodding style. anything that can be done to improve power distribution on these cars is a plus especially for safety. I currently use 3 bosch relays for headlights and ignition and have a seperate junction block to hook power to your setup would have been a cleaner solution for me (68 camaro). I always liked those underhood power modulars on the newer cars. keep up the good work! Dan
 
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