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KevinW

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Dave, thanks for all your help with alignment specs and info. But I finally got the front end aligned and I have some issues to discuss, if you have some time. And anyone else that wants to join :)

Took a stock drum front suspension and added new rubber bushings, new stock ball joints, new tie rod ends (in & out). Added a 1" addco sway bar with polly bushings, and 6320 springs to a SB 69 Vert (638 springs were in there). And reused the stock upper shafts. Also put in poly subframe bushings. Steering box and pitman arm are the 91K originals.

Previously the car went down the road well without any issues except cornering was poor and front end was too high IMO.

Just had the alignment done

DR: cam -.3, cast +4.9, toe .18 PS cam -.4, cast +5.2, toe .17

We were amazed on how much caster he could put into stock suspension with very little shims.

The steering box does have some play, so he tried to center the wheel inside the play.

So after driving it a little, steering wheel does not stay centered, the car wanders a bit and it oversteers into the corners. I plan on making sure everything is torqued up properly (pretty sure it is :)). Also plan on checking the steering box adjustment nut.

Car sits right where I want it, lower in the front and higher in the rear (re-arched monos). Hope it does not lower too much more. It does corner a lot better now, but have to correct the oversteer (which is a pain). And going straight down the highway, the wandering is annoying.

After the Memorial day parades, I can take it back for any alignment adjustment, but I would like to have a plan of attack on what to change.

So any ideas were to look for the oversteer and wandering? Thx!
 
I think all your problems are in the steering box, assuming all the steering joints are tight. Many people are afraid to adjust the box in case something should go wrong. The worst I've had happen is the steering wheel doesn't return to center on it's own, you have to turn it back.

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Joe, all the numbers are in degrees. .2 degrees is 1/16" So both tires are under 1/16". I went under the car with my kid rocking the wheel (play only) and it is all in the box, Pitman arm did not move. Then I had my kid go a little more and I saw the idler (new from ricks) start to flex. Is that normal? Is there a stronger part available?

Jeff, started working on the box last night, but need to adjust it while running (hopefully tonight) thx
 
I've never done it with the box running. I just back off the nut and hold it then turn the allen until it's snug with the steering gear on center (wheels straight ahead). If it won't return , back it off a half turn and try again. If you have to loosen it very much you probably need a new box.

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Well, that did not help much. I tightened it up without the engine running when steering wheel was in the center and then backed off 1/4 turn. A very small improvement, so I tighened it 1/8 with the engine running, no better and it just spilled fluid out from under the nut. :( Let it cool and back the the 1/4 mark. Wheel was a little binding at 1/8, but moved back to center freely at 1/4. Then I noticed my gas gauge went from almost 3/4 to 1/4 going around the block WTF!! It is a new tanks and sender, must have been gummed up. Going to get gas tomorrow to see if it fills after 5 gal or 12 :) always something!
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Yup, my wife is bitching at me to stop tearing into the car and get to work on her honey-do's! :D Checked the level in the tank with a dipstip and it is 3/4 full. So I get to drop the tank again to see what is up with the sender. I am contemplating grafting my old sender float (was working great!) to the new pickup instead of playing russian roulette with another repro sender. Also looking into rebuilt or rebuilding the gear box and new pitman :(
 
Hey Kevin, I just ran into a similar problem with my sender. It worked great before I tore into the trunk project. Before I installed the sender into the new tank, I did a resistance check and it wasn't working at all. I took reostat apart and found that the band that holds the resistance wire had come loose from the housing. I used a dab of J B weld to reattach it and it's fine again. It's in the car and measuring correctly. You may want to operate on your old one.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Good one Joe! Turns out it is not broken! Filled it up tonight, took 8 gals. Gauge stayed at 1/4 until I pulled out of the station and then it popped back up to full :D I think sender is sticking. Gonna keep a close watch on the next couple of tank fulls.

Went on a long drive to a cruise night and and getting a better feel for the alignment. Steering box is still loose, but I can anticipate it better. Took the highway on the way back and it is more stable at 65 than 50. And it really corners well now (ignoring the box wobble). I will replace the box and get a better idler arm and get it re-aligned this summer. overall I feel better about the car now :D Next up is a good cleaning and the memorial day parade!
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Hi Dave! Yes, the front end is significantly lower than it was, but right where I like it. The 6320s are perfect for SB verts IMO. Went over some serious bumps and my driveway interface and no issues and the spoiler clears too. Hope it does not settle much more.

I have been trying to find out more info on steering boxes and there is nothing clear. Do you have a good source for rebuilt boxes or brand names/numbers? I have not found a good place to buy them and am leaning towards rebuilding my original.

Also, I put a clasic ind. stock replacement idler arm on and when doing static tests it apears to be flexing before the tire moves, is that normal? Should I upgrade to the Moog part you reference? thx!

I will take some pics today.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
OK, here are the pics

before new front springs, but after re-arching rear monos 1.5" over stock (car is on a somewhat level surface)

Image


After new springs (car is on a downward sloping surface)

Image


Closeup of front wheel after

Image
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Alright, bringing up an old thread. Replaced the box with a Cardone 2.5 turns rebuilt box (2.5 turns are on ALL 1st gen Camaros) and you have to return a 2.5 turns core for credit.

The steering is much tighter now, but still wanders. The steering wheel is not centered, going tomorrow morning to get that checked.

but should I ask for more toe-in to cure the wander? It did not wander at all with the old alignment and box.
 
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