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jcfcamaro

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Guys, what things should I know when putting motor in 4 the first time ? I know the power steering bracket needs to be on , but thats all I know!! Your help would be great so I don't have to pull it back out later!!
 
Leave the distributor out until the engine is in. Less chance of hitting it and breaking it, easier to get to the top 2 bellhousing bolts, easier to hook up the oil line if you're running an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure guage or easier to install the sender if it's electric. If you're installing engine & trans together and this is your first time I can almost guarantee you'll smack the distributor into the firewall & mess it up. Don't know how much other stuff you're replacing but it's a good time to install a new speedo cable and if so push the rubber grommet into the hole in the firewall while the engine is out of the way. Saves on bloody knuckles later.
 
If you have factory AC, you might as well hang the passenger side headers as well.

Radiator out.

Water pump off, especially if it's the long style.

Floor jack to support the rear of the tranny.

Get your Z-bar in position too.
 
Install the crank pulley after the engine is in - not before hand. Make sure your z bar is ready to slide in and put the ball on the block before installing the engine. Use a lifting plate on the intake to the carb mounting points, a leveler makes the job much easier too. I would install it with the bell housing and clutch already in and lined up with the transmission too, just pull the trans after you line up the clutch and install it from underneath after you have the engine in place. You'll need a jack and an flat piece of wood like plywood to put under the pan to hold the engine level until you get the transmission in place. Set the car up on jack stands so when the engine is in you have room to put the trans in from under neath without having to rearrange that jack under the oil pan.
 
In my experience it's easiest with a helper and the transmission already mounted to the engine.

Just some tips....
-Trans empty and a wad of paper towels taped in the output.
-Front tires on pieces of 2x4 may be needed for the cherry picker legs to clear the control arms.
-Crank pulley and water pump removed will gain a little extra clearance but not completely necessary.
-Power steering pump can stay connected to the box to avoid the mess it always makes when disconnecting, just lay it over to the side.
-Rear end off the ground about a foot helps if you don't have a load leveler.
-A small trolley jack under and in line with the transmission is handy once the engine is close to being in if you don't have a leveler. You can guide it in that way and then lift the trans to get the crossmember in.
-The picker I've used (no leveler) needed a cardboard cushion between it and the front bumper with the hook on the front eye of the carb lift plate.

Just did two last Wednesday, both small blocks with manual trans (M20 and TKO).
 
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