69 Console Oil Gauge - Line Removal?

69-Pace · Jul 31, 2011

Today I tried without success to remove the oil line from the rear of my 1969 gauge. When the console was removed at the body shop a million years ago they just cut the line and left about three inches attached to the gauge.

I was thinking I'll just remove the nut and pull the line. Well that was futile since the brass clutch was holding tight after 40 years. I tried heating the fitting, brute strength and prayer. None of the above did anything but anger me.In the end I bent the crap out of the gauge face and the line snapped off at the clutch so I assume I will have to purchase a new gauge @#*%

I should have asked here days before today but I was on a roll this afternoon checking a lot of small stuff off my list. So with crumpled gauge in my hand - I ask TC what is the correct method to remove or replace the oil line to a 68-69 oil gauge.

DjD · Jul 31, 2011

I've never come across one that wouldn't come loose with an open end wrench on the nut. Perhaps the threads were galled up before the nut was last threaded on. Try a few drops of penatrating oil at the base of the nut and see if you can get it to work it's way between the threads and the nut.

My other thought is if you or anyone else tried using pliers or vice-grips to loosen the nut both the nut and the threads may have been slightly crushed out of round locking the 2 pieces together.

mpm · Jul 31, 2011

It sounds like you have the nut off and are trying to pull the line from the guage unit.
The ferrel has wedges that pull down on the plastic line and gets locked in place.I have taken a needle nose pliers and squeezed the wedges at the top(or wide end) and squeezed 2 at a time and alternated to the other 2 pulling very carefully at the same time.
Heat might make the thin plastic tubing to get gripped more.

Good luck

TModel66 · Jul 31, 2011

Go ahead and get a new gauge. I've beat myself up a thousand times trying to get this 40 year old stuff to work to end up with a new one in the end and all that lost time plus the headaches.

69-Pace · Jul 31, 2011

mpm said:
It sounds like you have the nut off and are trying to pull the line from the guage unit.
The ferrel has wedges that pull down on the plastic line and gets locked in place.I have taken a needle nose pliers and squeezed the wedges at the top(or wide end) and squeezed 2 at a time and alternated to the other 2 pulling very carefully at the same time.
Heat might make the thin plastic tubing to get gripped more.

Good luck

Yes the nut came off with no issues, the clutch ferrel wedges weren't going anywhere, the brass just chewed off with the needle nose pliers. SO I moved on to heat and that just melted the tube. SO I tried to grab what was left of the clutch, brass tube and the plastic tube with vice grips and that's when the face plate bent and creased - at the same time the rest of the brass inner tube and the plastic ripped off.

Here whats left. The iphone pic is better as a thumbnail for quality for some reason.

69-Pace · Jul 31, 2011

TModel66 said:
Go ahead and get a new gauge. I've beat myself up a thousand times trying to get this 40 year old stuff to work to end up with a new one in the end and all that lost time plus the headaches.

Yeah once I creased the face plate I figured this was the only route.

I think the OER versions look the closest to original minus the made in the USA but the Classics Headquarters one looks close too.

Any one have either and have something good or bad to say in terms of look, feel and quality let alone accuracy?

Wish someone made a replacement that was electric not mechanical. Or do they and I have missed it?

mpm · Jul 31, 2011

Sorry! Holy C%%P.That is a done deal.sorry to say that.Its almost like they made it to be a 1 shot deal,no getting them apart.I never had 1 that was that tough to get apart.I would agree with the other post,cut you loss have a beer and move on to the next idem on your list .I love the GM parts and NOS idems but this is 1 time that it would be good for a repo oil guage.This thing is watching the life blood of your first gen engine.

69-Pace · Jul 31, 2011

Yeah I assume the only hope of salvaging would be to somehow drill out and hope a replacement line wouldn't leak.

So knowing the chances of that - I'll order a new one.

Everett#2390 · Jul 31, 2011

A compression union would have probably worked to join the two cut ends of tubing.
A sliding hammer might remove the remains.
Copper tubing would be a replacement.

lt14spd · Jul 31, 2011

I drilled mine out incrementally starting with smaller to larger bits. Took about 10 mins. The piece of plastic tubing that was stuck in the gauge came out on the end of the last bit.

69-Pace · Jul 31, 2011

lt14spd said:
I drilled mine out incrementally starting with smaller to larger bits. Took about 10 mins. The piece of plastic tubing that was stuck in the gauge came out on the end of the last bit.

How did you prevent any damage to the face plate? Did you reinstall a plastic line or use copper as suggested?

JohnZ · Jul 31, 2011

Everett#2390 said:
Copper tubing would be a replacement.

Actually, copper tubing isn't a good idea (although most of the aftermarket kits with compression sleeves use it) - it work-hardens with vibration and can fatigue-fracture; GM never used copper tubing, for that reason - on metal lines, they used copper-plated steel. The correct nylon line sets, as used originally, have the tiny brass insert in the line at each end that keeps the tubing from collapsing when the GM-proprietary radius-tapered male/female fittings are tightened.

:beers:

zman1969 · Aug 8, 2011

I have had a few that others had broke the plastic right at the ferrule before and getting whats left of that out took some careful drilling and once it "grabs" the ferrule it comes right out - done that 2-3 time w/o any other incident other than buying a new line

69-Pace · Aug 8, 2011

If I had a drill press I guess I would try but don't know about holding it between my feet that how I crunched it when trying to pull it with the vice grips.

Everett#2390 · Aug 9, 2011

JohnZ said:
on metal lines, they used copper-plated steel. The correct nylon line sets, as used originally, have the tiny brass insert in the line at each end that keeps the tubing from collapsing when the GM-proprietary radius-tapered male/female fittings are tightened.

:beers:

Thanks, JohnZ for the info. Now as I think about it, I would agree as my Grandparents' '56 Pontiac Chieftan used the line you mentioned with the same fittings as shown. Haven't seen these fittings until now. Their gauge line broke at the gauge and had to visit the dealer in '65 for a replacement fitting. Parts Man sold the fitting for 50 cts and gave his good luck in making it work as I was 14 at the time. It worked.

Back at you:beers:

69 Console Oil Gauge - Line Removal?

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