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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey guys im new to this forum, and this is my first post. I am currently building my first 454 :hurray: and i want to be nasty! So here i am sharing with you guys all they parts that i got for it so far, Let me know what you think!

454 punched to 468
Pistons are SP Domes compression should be around 10.5 - 11.0
cam - Lunati 402A7Lun
Heads - 781 with some gasket port matching and 2.19 , 1.88 valves
intake - Edelbrock Performer RPM
Carb - Holley 850 DP
Ignition - is a full msd 6al kit

Trans - is a Th350 for now unless i get a Th400 at a good price or trade, i also have no stall what do you guys think will be the best?

as for the gears in the rear it will either be a 3.42 or 3.73 i tried 4.10 and i couldnt stand it this car is gunna be daily driven and what not and i like going faster then 60 on the HWY :cool:!

so let me know what you think of the build so far! If i am forgetting anything just let me know. :thumbsup:
 
Give Charlie at ATI or Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts a ring, they can either recommend something off the shelf for you or build you a custom piece for your application.

Looks like a nice build. Rowdy. I like it :) If you are driving on the highway a good bit the 3.42s will be a better choice in my opinion...
 
perty good build--in my opinion-zero deck the block -good rods and a internal balance job--i would use the 3.73s 3000 converter and a 830 annular carb--the annular boosters really work good on a heavy car for 60ft times-make sure the springs get matched up for cam and set up to cam card
 
I would spend $300 more and go with a Howard's roller unless you've already bought the cam.

.600+ lift will be tough to live with in a non-roller cam.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
yea i already have all these parts, and don't worry i made sure the springs and everything match's the cam :hurray: , also i think im gunna stick with the 3.42 since its gunna be a daily. :cool: Im thinking 3000 or 3500 stall :yes:

I want it to be a beast on the track yet comfortable to drive on the hwy since i do allot of hwy cruising, and to mention the track is about an hour away from me!
 
yea i already have all these parts, and don't worry i made sure the springs and everything match's the cam :hurray: , also i think im gunna stick with the 3.42 since its gunna be a daily. :cool: Im thinking 3000 or 3500 stall :yes:

I want it to be a beast on the track yet comfortable to drive on the hwy since i do allot of hwy cruising, and to mention the track is about an hour away from me!
You do realize this beast will get 5 mpg ?
 
You do realize this beast will get 5 mpg ?
With a 4.10 gear I got 6mpg city and 8mpg hiway @ 55mph.

Of course that's with a much milder engine (in my sig). With a 427 built closer to the OP's engine (.600 lift solid, bigger carb, etc) I got about 3mpg (~50 miles to the tank). Back then (late 80's - early 90's) having an 11 second ride meant more than getting good mileage :D.
 
With a 4.10 gear I got 6mpg city and 8mpg hiway @ 55mph.

Of course that's with a much milder engine (in my sig). With a 427 built closer to the OP's engine (.600 lift solid, bigger carb, etc) I got about 3mpg (~50 miles to the tank). Back then (late 80's - early 90's) having an 11 second ride meant more than getting good mileage :D.
I'm hoping for 15 mpg. Running a mild roller with a .5 OD T56 trans.
 
yea i already have all these parts, and don't worry i made sure the springs and everything match's the cam :hurray: , also i think im gunna stick with the 3.42 since its gunna be a daily. :cool: Im thinking 3000 or 3500 stall :yes:

I want it to be a beast on the track yet comfortable to drive on the hwy since i do allot of hwy cruising, and to mention the track is about an hour away from me!
Thats where the hyd roller comes into play.You can have your 600" lift without all the 260 ish @ .050" duration that will buck and fart at cruise rpm with 3.42,s.
 
First the Lunati flat tappet solid cam has specs of 255°/263° (@ .050" lift), 0.612"/0.630", on a 110° LSA, 3000-7200 rpm’s (the Lunati 402A6 is the same cam lobe set at 107° LSA). This is going to be a very rowdy, lumpy cam at idle and you are giving up a lot of bottom end torque (power band doesn't begin until 3,000 RPM which is well above cruise RPM for most street cars). Lunati recommends high compression pistons (which you have), good headers, a steep gear, and a 3,000 RPM stall minimum torque converter. None of these except the headers are considered streetable.

One additional problem will be cam break in. The springs required to keep your valves (which are too small for deep breathing) will have over 350 pounds of open pressure which is rough on today's motor oil without the needed DZZP. Break in on the outer springs only before switching over to your triple springs and check your lash frequently to know if your lobes are wearing at an accelerated rate (once set, a solid cam with screw in rocker arm studs and a stud girdle with poly locks should hold the lash without opening up).

I would look at the ZZ502 cam specs for what Chevrolet engineers think is appropriate for a 500 cube BBC motor (the bigger the motor's displacement the more duration you can run without hurting street driving manners of your car). They use a 224°/234 duration roller cam @ 0.050" lift with 0.527"/0.544" valve lift on a 110° LSA, and it sounds just fine at idle because most of it's exhaust is on the duration side.

Larger Dave
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
well i haven't put the engine together yet. But if i do decide to sell or return my solid flat tappet cam what hydraulic roller cams would you all recommend that would make similar power to the solid but yet still be more streetable :thumbsup:! just toss me some links and ill check it out because like i said most likely gunna have a 3.42 / driven every day :cool: but i still want it to be a beast :thumbsup:
 
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